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Everything posted by barrybait

  1. I use twisted eyes the more often than screw eyes and I believe they are much more secure. When I epoxy them into the hole, I first drill a vent hole to intersect the twisted wire hole. After mixing D2T I use the mixing stick to drip epoxy into the hole until it comes out the vent hole. Then I hold my finger over the vent hole as I "scew" the twisted wire eye into it. That way I feel sure that I have 100% wood, epoxy, and twisted wire contact. Barry
  2. I use 2ton epoxy for securing lips in the slop on baits but I think 5min should be ok. I do a little more than "scuff up" the lip though. I do scuff it up with some sand paper but I also use a dremel with the small ball tip and ball tip out some groves on both sides of the lip for a key to lock it in. This is on wood baits and the slots are usually sealed with D2T. Since your baits are resin it might be a good idea to scuff/key up the slot too. I use the same method for both polycarbonate and fiber(circuit board) lips. Also, you may want to reconsider "really tight" lip slots. You may be scraping the glue off and it puts a load on your resin. I always try and maintain the back side and the top of the lip slot perfectly if possible. I have repaired broken lip slots on commercial wake baits for friends by using a hack saw blade down the front of the lip all the way to the top of the lip slot. Then I just push the bottom of the lip to break it free. That way I maintain the back and top of the lip slot making it easy to position the new lip as I epoxy it in using tooth picks at the front of the slot to hold it against the back and top of the slot while the epoxy hardens.
  3. No sir. I mostly use the steel wool when recoating 2 part epoxy and when recoating or am going to repaint a hard bait to get coatings to stick.
  4. barrybait


    Looks like you nailed it.
  5. barrybait


    Cool. Thanks for sharing.
  6. I like to use fine steel wool as opposed to fine sandpaper when I need to scuff up the surface for a second coat. You can get 0000 steel wool and I think that if you just get the shine off it provides enough "bite" for the next coat. Sometimes if I use fine sandpaper, it takes off more than I want and has damaged my paint requiring me to start over. After the steel wool I use a cotton ball soaked with denatured alcohol to wipe it down before applying the next coat.
  7. barrybait


    Catches my eye. Unique with 2 line ties so I guess you can vertically jig this one. Also note worthy is you unique foil job. Not sure how you achieved that mottled foil. Beautiful.
  8. barrybait


    Very interesting bait. Looks like it will wake great and really move some water when it does. Nice work.
  9. Have you googled "realistic 3D fish eyes" and also search ebay for same? There are some very good looking eyes out there in many different sizes. There are also videos out there for how to make your own by photo editing real fish eyes that you should check out if you haven't already. I have made some when I needed a specific color and size and they turned out ok but I also had the bubbles problem. Barry
  10. Not sure what you mean by "enough weight .... to sit upright". I don't want the bait to sit vertical, I want it to sit nearly horizontal in the water. I add weights say 3 or 4 weights in a row along the back 1/3 of the bait until the bait sits just a little tail down from horizontal That is not for more drag but to help with the glide of the wide walk.
  11. I built some top water stick baits 5 to 7 " long modeled similar to Super Spook and got a basswood 5" to walk about 18" wide. I weighted them toward the rear of the bait but I did not weight it so much that the tail was down much, just sat low in the water. For a good glide, lighter front, heavier back end when you jerk-release, it yanks the front of the bait to the opposite side and the forward motion push of the weight drives the front around more due to unstable flight. Similar to shoot an arrow with the weight in the back see what happens, shoot an arrow with the weight in the front goes far. I learned about that repairing a friends Lunker Punker. So for a good glide, a nearly level bait, weighed on back half, and overall weight are all beneficial to a good glide. And I think if you want to do that and minimize forward motion, a shorter bait is better than a longer bait.
  12. I was lucky to learn that before I started making baits. I was throwing a Luhr Jensen Speed trap and took the snap off to try a different lure. Later I tied the Speed Trap on direct and it immediately blows out. With snap you can burn them, tied direct you can't even crank them. The answer always seems easy after you figure it out. Good job and congrats on a successful Glide Bait.
  13. I almost always tie to a split ring, helps with lure action. I rarely use a snap, they can come open. And I only direct tie when there is little to no action like with a prop bait where it's all about the props. Direct tie on a crankbait can reduce action.
  14. Thanks for a thorough rundown on those baits. It sounds like quality control is getting it done. I am a speed trap fan as well. Speed traps fish very well here on the California Delta for both Largemouth Bass and Stripers. I had not heard of the Speed N. Thanks for sharing. Barry
  15. How do you source Paulownia? I have searched for it unsuccessfully except Mark Poulson gave me a couple pieces to try. Do to inability finding Paulownia, I have purchased higher density Balsa and I have been using pine and western red cedar. Barry
  16. I have a 7" wake bait I made out of balsa that was very lively due to light weight and the fish couldn't stand it. It fished very well and soon the fish won and now it is hanging in my shop with a big chunk out of it. So now I am in the process of finding a happy medium of slightly stronger wood and tougher coatings so that they will last longer. I am making a 7" Golden Shiner of my own design and 7" and 9" knock offs of the AC Plug Minnow. I have given up on the lighter weight balsa (7-8 lbs/cubic foot) and am currently making these lures out of graded balsa, medium weight (10-14 lbs/cubic foot), white pine, and western red cedar. I shape everything and cut the bill slot and vee notch and drill all my hardware holes then I epoxy my hook hangars in so I have something to hold on to and or hang it from. Then I heat them up in a food dehydrator that has a thermostat which I set to 140F. Then I coat them while holding them by the hook hangars with needle nose vise grips. Brush ready, I dip the ends in my mixing cup of Tap Plastics slow cure epoxy (Basically Clear Penetrating Epoxy) and brush everywhere I can't dip. I know it draws it into the end grain because I have to keep wetting it as it draws in. That don't happen on the sides. I don't think anything you use is going to penetrate the sides. Unless there is end grain access you are not going to get sealer to penetrate. However, everywhere you are tapering the shape of the lure exposes end grain which draws in the sealer you are using. If you want more protective coating on the sides you are going to have to apply more coats of sealer/top coat whatever you are using to get the thickness you need and/or expose the wood's end grain. JD_mudbug's technique (a couple of post above) of sanding with 60 grit will help by exposing end grain on the sides especially by sanding across the grain will allow the wood to hold more sealer. I forgot to mention that I overdrill all my hardware holes and I don't have any blind holes. That is, if the line tie, hook, or hinge holes don't go all the way through, I drill a vent hole. Also, I tried Minwax wood hardener on one of my two cedar lures and didn't find any improvement. Certainly not enough to justify the extra step.
  17. barrybait


    An awesome look. High 5's!
  18. If you are drying wood in the oven, does it have to be an electric oven? I have a gas oven and a by-product of combustion is moisture.
  19. barrybait


    I learned from the store "Tap Plastics" where I buy some epoxy and "lexan" scraps that it is OK to apply Epoxy over Polyester (UV resin) but it is not OK to apply Polyester over Epoxy.
  20. The best silvery finish I have achieved is with Silver Leaf. It looks great for the silver sided Kokanee Salmon. It is available at Michael's and Hobby Lobby. It's the stuff they use to emboss picture frames in gold or silver. I didn't use the spray adhesive, I still used D2T. After mixing a small amount of D2T, I used a finger cot to rub a very thin layer of D2T on one side of the bait. Then you have to "float" this very very thin sheet of silver leaf and let it decend on the bait. Tap the silver leaf down on the bait very gently using only a cotton ball. Then I turn it over on a towel but I have the towel covered with saran wrap (food stretch wrap). Do the other side, fold the stretch wrap over it. Then I sandwich it between two pieces of foam padding on the floor and set my tool box on it. Come back the next day, stretch wrap comes off, coat with epoxy again to protect the silver leaf.
  21. Sad news for sure. Ben always shared his knowledge generously. Prayers for the family.
  22. barrybait

    cedar craw baits.jpg

    Great Craw pattern. Those would work great here on the California Delta. I'm doing a craw pattern very similar to this on some speed traps and balsa baits of mine. I don't know about the rest of the world but here on the delta you can't hardly beat a good red craw pattern crankbait with a yellowish to orange belly. Barry
  23. barrybait

    Cedar Crankbaits29.jpg

    That's an awesome shad pattern. Looks great. Thanks for sharing. Barry
  24. barrybait

    CA Sucker.jpg

    Congratulations on some beautiful work. I don't completely understand the lip, did you need to add weight. Also it appears to have two line ties. Most notable though is that incredible scale pattern that is very precise. I would certainly appreciate some tips if you are willing to share on how to achieve your scale pattern it looks fantastic!
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