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Lilpdriverrat

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Everything posted by Lilpdriverrat

  1. Lilpdriverrat
    There is a 2 part aerosol automotive grade top coat that is supposed to work very well but I can't remember the name right now and it is little pricey...better to have several ready to top coat. Other than that, the best alternative is Permagloss, but it is "hot" and doesn't like some paints. ***just found the name...Spray Max
  2. Lilpdriverrat
    I got it to close no problem. Have only used the 1/2oz size so far.
  3. Lilpdriverrat
    I have poured some spinnerbaits with this mold WITHOUT any modification and very little flashing using preformed spinnerbait wire
  4. Lilpdriverrat
    What technique would you intend to use the rod for? Would you want to use micro guides? My typical casting set up uses Pac Bay Minima single foot guides, size 6, 5, 4, and size 3's the rest of the way to the tip.
  5. Lilpdriverrat
    The MHX blanks are of better quality than the CRB. The CRB are nice and will build good rods but the MHX are a step above. The kits are the easiest way to start out until you figure out what you like/want. The hand wrapper included in the first 2 kits is much better than the EZ wrapper. The EZ wrapper will still work, but it does not keep tension on the thread as well.
  6. Lilpdriverrat
    welcome
  7. Lilpdriverrat
    or this blank MHX Elite Pro Rod Blank NEPS82HF from mudhole
  8. Lilpdriverrat
    If you find a 7' you like, just cut 2" off the butt of the rod.
  9. Lilpdriverrat
    This is a good starting point for guide spacing. http://www.mudhole.com/assets/images/content/CRB-Guide-Spacing-Chart.PDF
  10. Lilpdriverrat
    7" is pretty standard but build it to the length that you want. That is the advantage of building your own, you make it to what YOU like, not what someone else tells you is right.
  11. Lilpdriverrat
    Depending on where you order from, ask them to fit the reel seat to the desired length on the rod and then you will not need to build up with tape.
  12. Lilpdriverrat
    For future reference, A large turkey fryer pot with enough water to cover the reel seat works good. Get the water boiling, place the rod in the boiling water, making sure not to allow the butt of the rod blank to make contact with the bottom of the pot , and hold it there for a minute. Use a pair of channel locks, grab the reel seat and try to twist the reel seat off. If that doesn't work, repeat several times until it does. This should soften the epoxy enough to break the bond. If this does not work, then it is off to the dremel tool with cutoff wheel and carefully cut and pry it off.
  13. Lilpdriverrat
    They work VERY well and are very easy to set up. No real drawbacks with performance. The only drawback is that they must be purchased as a "Package" but the first to (closest to the reel) are the only ones that really set it apart. The first one really, as it has the "double guide", while the second is at the right height/ring diameter for their system. I do not like their running guides so I typically use my own choice of running guides paired with the first 2 from the kits. I also prefer the "Airwave" version that does not have ceramic inserts so that I can reduce weight. There are a few factory rods that utilize the concept, carrot stix, castaway, enigma to name a few
  14. Lilpdriverrat
    Single foot guide $5 plus cost of guide, double foot guide $8 plus cost of guide
  15. Lilpdriverrat
    It is difficult to mame your own telescopic blanks as each piece must match perfectly and also be of comparable power. Blank options for this are pretty limited but I did come across this https://www.vexan.com/product/tackle-industries-telescopic-rod-blanks/
  16. Lilpdriverrat
    My thoughts would be to remove the trigger off of a tpssd or tpsm and attatch it to the side/bottom of the current reel seat. 2-3 small screws (recessed) would probably be required. Either use epoxy or even a plastic welder to attach and reinforce with the screws. File/sand the edges for a smooth transition. Probably not too difficult but a little tedious though.
  17. Lilpdriverrat
    probably so...
  18. Lilpdriverrat
    Could you post a pic? I may be able to find something for you and fix it when you are down in the spring.
  19. Lilpdriverrat
    May be able to replace the handle. I believe I know of a place that still has these old Lews handles. Pistol grip?
  20. Lilpdriverrat
    Fedex is my choice and pvc is honestly the best way. Fedex has triangular shipping tubes that you can piece together and use a spine for reinforcement. Using fedex you should be able to ship for under $30 using their triangular or a PVC tube. I have also used the USPS with mixed results...kinda depends on who is working and how they measure.
  21. Lilpdriverrat
    fishingskirts.com
  22. Lilpdriverrat
    I do this a good bit for people that understand that the cost to restore most likely will outweigh the value of the rod. Those that choose to have them restored state that the sentimental/functional value of the rods far outweighs the cost of the restore and gladly pay. Generally speaking guide replacement $6/guide plus cost of guide. Handle replace: $25 plus cost of materials Blank refinish/paint/etc: $30 Decorative wraps/weaves depends on difficulity custom inscription/decal $5
  23. Lilpdriverrat
    Blanks will generally have more than one spine. Ignore the spine and build the rod on the straightest axis. Forget what you read about spine...it really is irrelivent
  24. Lilpdriverrat
    Where are you located? Shipping the rod to someone to repair would cost MUCH more than the repair itself. Check out tackleworks.org and search for a rodbuilder/repair guy in your area. This is a simple repair and should run you about $10-$20 depending on the cost of the guide you will be replacing.
  25. Lilpdriverrat
    No, it really doesn't matter. They may put the transitions guide(s) on the same side as the reel handle so if a rod is laying down, these guides are not being pressed into the deck, floor, etc.
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