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Landry last won the day on April 10

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  1. Well my results are now definitive. High temp mold Max 60 properly degassed gives me clean pours immediately- it may work with 30 shore too but I have not tried it yet. I have made two new molds are both are incredible.
  2. I think it is the 340° heat that causes it. When I pour hard resin in to make a clone of my master carving it comes out smooth. pretty sure I have the solution now with degassed high temp silicon
  3. I did all of those tricks and my masters are glossy and smooth. One of two things was happening to make the dimples: 1. Micro bubbles in the silicon even though I laid a thin coat first 2. The soft silicon was off gassing possibly? the high temp mold Max 60 May be what fixed the problem OR it may have been that I laid down multiple thin layers so had no bubbles anywhere near the bait surface. nevertheless, I bought a degassing setup and am now making high temp firm silicon molds the right way. Molds that can handle 6-12oz of hot plastisol without giving me those dang d
  4. Well here are the results- degassed harder (shore 60) silicone molds will give you clean smooth pours every time and first pour. lota of people have helped me so this is my gift back
  5. Yes - heating in oven does not work as well as with junk plastisol pours to warm them my question is - will a firmer and degassed silicone enable me to pour clean molds right away or in less time??? my guess is that I will have to buy a degassing setup and test it myself. Lol.
  6. I make large 6-11oz (9-12”) muskie soft baits and have been using silicon molds (mold star 30) in mold boxes for 4 years now. I am pondering going to aluminum molds but this is a big pricey move for me as I need at least 6 molds made. My reason to move to aluminum is that with my silicone molds I need to pour three junk plastic baits through each mold in order to get the baits to come out smooth without tiny dimples on the surface. The dimples go away after that so that had me thinking they were not air bubbles in silicon causing the problem but instead some type of gas or cooling iss
  7. I am in Ontario and make giant soft muskie swimbaits (rover Baits). For fun I have started making my own hard baits. I am a rookie but you could likely benefit from my testing strategy. Here is what I did. I stuck to one lure style at a time and a Jake is a great starter. I used cedar. I stuck to flat sided lures and used wood that was 19-20mm thick. make a template so u can duplicate it. cut bait and router edges cut lip slot so it is a tight fit for your lexan or aluminum. use screw eyes and put on hooks for testing too. seal bait with crazy glue for testing.
  8. Can anyone give me a recipe for making the most buoyant resin/micro balloon possible??? I want the most buoyancy I can get - and what would it’s density be like then -maple mahogany???... thanks.
  9. Hey guys, wanna design some light (cedar-like) Lake St ClAir muskie trolling baits. I have quite a bit of mold making experience but have never tried Alumifoam. I hear it is similar density to cedar and tough so it would be perfect as the best wandering small musky baits are all made of cedar. my two questions are: 1. does it paint and epoxy well?I heard that it is prone to paint/epoxy bubbling issues. I want to keep it light so really only want to use one thin coat of epoxy or diamond coat at the end. I have used crazy glue to seal wood but am guessing it would eat the foam??
  10. Thanks the Crappiest product ever. Junk. Even stinks in wood. use wood glue thinned with water or mod podge thinned or epoxy
  11. Pour a hard train into the mold. It will come out just fine and won’t damage it after one time I have done this many times.
  12. As your mold warms the worms will come out shinier and shinier. Pam helps too.
  13. Super glue the worm flat side down to a container. Pour POP over top. Bake mold in oven at 170° for a few hours. Coat with two layers of 50/50 wood glue and water. You now have an open pour mold that will work just fine. Once u get pouring figured out you will have great clone baits.
  14. Looks like a great start i learned over time that using waaaay less colorant will make your baits have a more realistic sheen and pop. Translucent color is way more effective.
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