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JimP last won the day on January 10 2019

JimP had the most liked content!

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  • Location
    Northern West Virginia
  • Interests
    Fishing, woodworking, and out door stuff in general. I have been making lures since I was a kid, started off tying flies.

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  1. JimP

    uv resin life

    I have a bottle of Loon UV that is a couple of years old and still cures the same as always. Try a different light maybe.
  2. Good build. Making use of available materials is always good.
  3. How about no cutter at all. Get a good grip of your twisted eye with some small vise grips with the tag pointing out from the edge of the jaws. If the tag is long enough just give it three for four bends as far as you can get and the wire will break off clean at the edge of the jaws. For short tags another set of pliers will be needed to bend the wire. Cut wires will have a sharp stub, broken wires are much less sharp. Been using this method for years and never cut the wire.
  4. Mark: The spray cans of foam are very light weight and as mentioned above inconsistent in structure. I tried a couple of kinds and to me looks like a no go. One company offered a higher density foam but it was still way under anything that could be used to construct lures from. Also some voids (internal bubbles) were over a 1/4 inch.
  5. JimP

    epoxy mixing cup

    The small disposable cups that every fast food place has for condiments. Just grab a couple of extras when you visit, pitch them when you are done.
  6. Good deal! Thanks for the reply, now we all know that warming the ETex will return it to a usable form.
  7. Mark, Too bad you pitched the hardened portion, I have read about but never actually tried this. The hardened material in the bottle can be returned to liquid state just by warming the bottle in warm water. At that point it should be good to go for another extended time period. Has anyone done this?
  8. JimP

    Bobbin ?

    Les: Yes they are a necessity. You will end up with several bobbins. I have some expensive bobbins with tension adjustments and ceramic tubes but I like the dirt cheap no frills the best. They all are adjustable tension just by over flexing the legs apart or together to get the tension you want. Something like this will work fine for a lifetime of tying for under $10. You can always get a couple more when you find the "got to have that" model. Most of all have fun tying.
  9. I'm buying the factory made foam blocks. Same material just bypassing the mixing stage. Problem with my process is that the material in sheet form is the expense and availability. Expensive to buy and everyone wants to sell full sheets which makes shipping beyond reason. I'm very curious about your 8 pound foam. It's on the light side but I think it will work since it will be topped with a rigid topcoat. When you get something built with that resin love to know how it works out. Thanks
  10. Are you forming blocks and then carving or pouring into a mold. I have done it both ways and seem to like carving from block better. The material is more consistent where the mixed and poured varies from pour to pour, at least that's how I remember it. The 8 pound sounds a little fragile for crank baits. Did the 8 pound hold up for you?
  11. Goolies, which foam are you working with? Mac and I are referring to HDPU (High Denesity Polyurethane), if that is what you are using I have seen the pin hole that becomes visible after the first primer coat. If that is your problem try a thinned out dip into Zinsser Bulls Eye 123. A bright white shellac product that dries quick and seals well. Just decant some into a pint or quart size jar and thin it down to water consistancy with DNA then dip, and rotate. A quick brush sanding between coats should solve your problems.
  12. Mac: Get back with me when you make it home and we can exchange some notes. Thanks! Jim P
  13. Mac: I have been making crank baits from block HD foam for a while and love the stuff. Having played with 20 - 30 pound per cubic foot materials and find the lighter weight materials best suited for lures. The only downside is cost and availability. I have been shaping and cutting weight pockets, wire tracks and lips slots with a CNC. Works very well. Can you tell me your source and details about the foam you are using? I will respond in kind. Respond here or PM your choice. I. would prefer here to benefit other makers, that's what this site is for. Thanks,
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