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aulrich last won the day on May 27

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  1. This maybe a little out of left field. But one of the winter's projects has been a new set of deck chairs for up at the cabin. when I made my first set my next door neighbor gave me leftover cans of Cetol SRD the stuff is awesome for outdoor wood the 20 years since it's called this (at least in Canada) http://www.exclusivepaints.com/shop/stain/sico-proluxe-srd-re-wood-finish/ 20 years of abuse and the chairs are broken down but the finish is decent(remember 0 maintenance) We have some that had plain Varathan and those are only 10 or so years and the wood is grey mossy and not a flake of finish on it. Judging by a chair I just finished it is a curing finish, so with a light sand it should take paint Did some looking and it is a boiled linseed oil variant
  2. I print the holes, I try not to do any but filling and sanding after the print. 3 walls and 10% 2 line infill. So the inside of the bait is mostly air. To date I have not had a lure body break, but I have lost the of lip or two to bad glue up. The biggest issue I need to fix is how to do a rattle. I don't think having a hole for a commercial rattle will work because oddly the hole would end up adding weight high in the body ( I think) messing with the action. Think I should be able print in a rattle. But It will double the cad work. since I would have to design the support and stiffening members on the inside of the bait. Then during the print job, I can trigger a pause so I can drop in a ball bearing or some other rattle or ballast. then finish the print. This is how I lay them out to print For scale the big hole fits a .25 ball bearing total length 6" I was going to take a dud body to the bandsaw then I remembered preview mode on the slicer red is outside surface green is the inside wall yellow is support even like this I could pause the print and drop a bead or 2 in one of the little cells for a rattle The blue here is external support the interface between the support material and the body is where 95% of the sanding is.
  3. Oh one more thing I found interesting filaments while going down the 3d printed RC planes rabbit trail. they are foaming or pre-foamed filaments. I use the pre-foamed stuff the filament floats https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0B1DGSRR4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Sometimes 3d printing a shape can give it a weird weight distribution i noticed that with the few thingivers lure that I tried a first and they all failed. The floating filament gives you a bit of buffer for that. IIRC Larry Dalberg has a video showing the weight distribution for different actions of glide baits
  4. I an not sure you will get the action you want with a flat sided bail ( I am about to start my own design thread)and I am just guessing but it looks like you are printing 2 halves and gluing everything inside. For my stuff I have been avoiding 2 part baits like the plague. With my lures what I try to end up with is a 3d printed equivalent hand carved lure blank. This shows the idea reasonably, this lure was printed belly up. the wire harness is a slot filled with CA glue and baking soda the ballast are two 00 buck lead shot. I have used steel slingshot ammo too. The back does take some sanding but a layer of CA glue and some sanding get rid of most of the layer lines and marks from the supports. I have used both thru wire and wire twist eyes and twist eyes seem to stand up to the pike I fish. So for now they are my default. % infill is another tool that is really useful for floater divers I just use 10% double line infill. With sinking lure I use at least 35%. With my whitefish project I am planning to print it so it it has the density as if I had made it from maple.
  5. Yea the metal powder is probably a really bad idea if it did not destroy your FEP it would get flushed to the side of the tray as the build plate cycled. One possibility is to print the mold like a shell and pour in some thermal conductive epoxy or using thermal conductive epoxy to attach an aluminum heat sink. I have run into some interesting advancements in metal FDM printing but I don't think SWMBO will approve of a sintering furnace. https://thevirtualfoundry.com/ The surface is still to rough at least on the pictures so not quite ready for prime time The commercial metal printers look to be really pricy, but could be useful in mold making on a commercial scale. From the pictures I have seem the surface finish would be in between Do-IT ES and a CNC. But it would be just like the ES and would need milling to flatten the mating surfaces. And to be honest if I won the lottery I would probably go CNC anyway.
  6. A grow tent and a heater is one of the other options, I don't really have the bench space between my FDM printer and a loading press, though the fume control would be easier you can just hang a carbon filter and fan in the tent.
  7. My printer is in my basement where the temperature is 18-21c or 64-71 freedom year round. As I understand it the higher end resins like sculpt like it over 30c. do you guys worry about that or do you have your printer in a warmer place than mine. I am just finishing up a heater to go in my printer.
  8. I am new to resin printing so this is me guessing, but I had anticipated that flatness was going to be an issue I wonder if you could dose the sculpt resin with some tenacious, maintaining most of the heat resistance and get some flexibility to fix the warping. I don't think pinning the mold to together during the cure would help. One possibility is the speed of the cure it stands to reason that as you blast one side of the mold with UV the cross linking would put an internal stress on the part since it does shrink as it cures. I would not be at all surprised if the curing resin acted like ceramics that have to cool very slowly and evenly after they are fired or they crack. Pull the UV back and rotate the mold like on a lure spinner the slower and more even the cure should help with warping. I had anticipated having to touch the mating surfaces to a glass plate with 800 grit paper to make the surfaces decently flat
  9. How durable are the paint jobs on pteg, I thought paint adhesion was one of PTEG's weaknesses? That is one reason I have been using PLA, I had expected to warp some baits but none yet. Some time ago I ran into a YouTube he tested 35% vs 10% with double lines and the 10% double line was as strong and a bit lighter.
  10. There was a post from the spring where a guy was casting hard bodies in an FDM mold. I tried it myself but I did not build in enough clearance so it wan just about impossible to get the wire harness and ballast done right. I did have some success printing a mold of a mold the upside is you can adjust the silicon mold easier if you need to expand the pour hole. And rigging the mold for pouring is more forgiving with wire dimensions. One thing I did not do enough of was tuning my printer for dimensional accuracy is did some but the 20mm calibration cubes are not quite enough. errors that don't show up at 20 mm will at 200 mm. Tuning will help with layer lines but the single best mod I did for my printer for layer lines was to make a spool holder that ran on bearings. A coat of CA glue gets all but the worst of the layer lines. From my limited experience with cast bodies I find a printed lure takes less effort. But I will admit that maybe I don't have the practice building harnesses. Up till now my over riding design goal is to end up with a one piece lure blank like it was carved from one piece of wood. I have done screw eyes slotted thru wire and "drilled" through wire. I did a bit of a side by side of cast and printed lures and I actually prefer printed over cast, in the case of that particular body. The printed lure had a slightly better action. This is what I mean by a Mold of a Mold
  11. I'll have to get off of my butt and get my stuff up, I just want to make sure they are properly tested. When I tried printed lures the first time they were all duds so it turned me off of the concept for a long time. I got a bit distracted lately Elegoo had a great price on their Saturn 4k so I am in the middle of learning how to work a resin printer that and it's hunting season.
  12. Yea I'll have to do some shopping around, this was from a local shop and I don't mind paying a bit of a premium for shopping local but for at least the high end stuff amazon is cheaper. But I do like being able to get some thing in a half hour vs tomorrow so I will still get some stuff local.
  13. Yes, just managing costs I did get a bit of sticker shock, for me expensive filament is $40CAD/KG where basic resin is $80 CAD/kg and the high heat or flexible resins increase costs fast.
  14. A quick question, I just got myself a resin printer, at least for proto typing can you get away with Standard "abs like" resin then print a "production" mold out of the high heat plastic, when you are sure the body works.
  15. You could also give it a quick heat with a hair dryer to give a custom fit. But a flex filament is still the best option. As a side note I am a bit closer on using flexible fillaments
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