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aulrich last won the day on August 3

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  1. I'll have to get off of my butt and get my stuff up, I just want to make sure they are properly tested. When I tried printed lures the first time they were all duds so it turned me off of the concept for a long time. I got a bit distracted lately Elegoo had a great price on their Saturn 4k so I am in the middle of learning how to work a resin printer that and it's hunting season.
  2. Yea I'll have to do some shopping around, this was from a local shop and I don't mind paying a bit of a premium for shopping local but for at least the high end stuff amazon is cheaper. But I do like being able to get some thing in a half hour vs tomorrow so I will still get some stuff local.
  3. Yes, just managing costs I did get a bit of sticker shock, for me expensive filament is $40CAD/KG where basic resin is $80 CAD/kg and the high heat or flexible resins increase costs fast.
  4. A quick question, I just got myself a resin printer, at least for proto typing can you get away with Standard "abs like" resin then print a "production" mold out of the high heat plastic, when you are sure the body works.
  5. You could also give it a quick heat with a hair dryer to give a custom fit. But a flex filament is still the best option. As a side note I am a bit closer on using flexible fillaments
  6. I would build my spray booth so that it sucks in all of the over spray and runs the air through something like a furnace filter. if you run any oil paints or organic solvents you would have to run the air through a carbon filter too. A respirator is not a bad idea, but it could give a a false sense of security. Because paint that does not end up on the lure or the back of the spray booth is now dust in you work area. If there is a health threat in acrylic paints it's probably the various salts used for pigments so managing that dust in a small enclosed area is probably the way to go. So add a filtering system to you spray booth area and you should be golden.
  7. I think guys have pulled off two plastic pours so clear low with a micro balloon top layer or a two part foaming resin. I have never done that so I can't say. I have seen lure with large hollow inserts but they were soft plastics so not so much for buoyancy but for using less plastic, so maybe a small vial made of a thin walled clear plastic tube.
  8. Well now you got me curious. No clear resin in the house but I do have a lipless mold that could work with no micro balloons.
  9. I could not find any locally and amazon.ca had too long delivery. Since you brought it up I took look at the MSDS and all it says is Ethyl alcohol as far as I understand it the formula given is just anhydrous ethanol so my denatured should have done the same thing Is there is a chemist out there could you validate that? When I was searching around for options (I have DIY reducer so why not restorer) I ran into a airbrushing blog the the person swore by lacquer thinner , and it I knew I could get some locally so I tried it.
  10. Going on my limited understanding, I don't think you will find a clear resin that will work as you think since resins are are more dense than water. But I think there could be a way around that problem. Roto Molding. You will need a mold without sprue or vents. Fill that mold with enough resin that will give you enough wall thickness for strength but enough air packet for buoyancy. You then pout that mold into a 2 axis spinner that slowly spins the mold on both the x and 4 axis and just like a lure tuner spreads the resin smoothly over the top of a lure the spinner puts an even coat on the inside of the mold. I would think you need a resin with a fairly long pot time Since you will likely need to pour the dose into the mold, degas the resin then mount it in the spinner with enough time to created the even coating. there are probably more issues but IDK. Another option is resin 3d printing lookup gulfstream outdoors on YouTube to see what can be made. it is a whole new can of worms
  11. So since I find myself doing a bit more painting than in the last couple of years an old pain had raised it's head the plugging every few minutes pain. At to cut to the chase, lacquer thinner is my airbrush's new best friend. I had soaked my airbrush in denature alcohol and I thought that helped but a quick filling of the bowl and after a minute or two gunk started to come loose. it took about 10 minutes but I don't think the brush was that clean since day 1. I found the idea on an airbrushing blog while trying to find airbrush restorer
  12. Just dipping my toes into making a freshwater popper the body it 25mm x 88 or 1"x3.5" , as I understand it the ballast should be further back, but just how far. the is is the body in fusion. And since this is a printed lure should I be shooting for a just barely buoyant.
  13. So I have been fighting with replicating a lazy Ike type lure, a lot of the issue were related to 3d printing and I did eventually get around them and finally got one to swim but it was barely buoyant, I could have been over hooked #2s on a 88mm (~3.2freedomunits) my hook supply is a bit sparse at the moment :). For some reason I decided to remove the ballast and it still swam. so when you are making a floater diver how to you set you starting ballast weight. Also what would be the signs of instability
  14. I have learned a ton from that channel mostly CAD related since I just have an FDM printer at the moment.
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