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Posts posted by JRammit
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Here's where i got it
https://www.jannsnetcraft.com/fishing-lure-paint/023025000527.aspx
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17 hours ago, fishordie79 said:
@JRammit Thanks for the reply and suggestion man! Based on what I have seen others doing online I will need to build a UV tank for this or? Not an issue if need be and it seems to me that using UV Poly is a faster and more effective method for jig heads than epoxy is. I could do multiple coats much faster won't have to wait a whole day between applying subsequent coats.
No UV tank needed, its not UV cure its just supposed to reflect UV light when finished.. i havnt noticed a difference, may just be a gimic, but it was only $2 more than the regular seal coat dip, so im not complaining
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Ive always brushed my jig heads and worm weights with thinned devcon, but thats alot of work and maybe a little overkill.... so i recently got some of that UV blast seal coat, just dip it and forget it.... so far so good
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The amazing white resin from alumilite is said to be beginner friendly compared to other brands... i used it with absolutely no prior resin casting experience and had fine results with no problems
Others like the smoothe on featherlight stuff, but i havnt tried it so i cant comment
As for RTV silicone, ive used alumilite (the pink stuff) in the past, no complaints... but now i order the blue RTV 45 from Spike-It/Lureworks simply because i order other stuff there too... it works fine as well
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Ive always heard the only difference between an alcoholic and a drunk is that alcoholics go to meetings.... not sure if this site counts as a meeting, but here we are
Im not a fan of Nike anymore, but just do it... knowlege is great, experience is super great.... and the good thing about soft baits is the fish dont notice when you screw them up.... not so when you get hooked on hard liquor, i mean baits.... too many lures too little time (that should be somebodys signature post)
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The only time my passion for fishing wanes is when i pick up a new hobby.... like the summer before last i got interested in gardening, which was nice for two reasons, one always having fresh vegis around the house, and two finally a hobby i can share with the wife.... i didnt fish much that year, think i only went 3 times the whole year.... but at the end of this summer i finally got a real boat!.. so my mind is back on fishing non stop...... and if i ever do actually get tired of fishing, there is always another species to target to make it interesting again
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Thats awesome!... im jealous
My neighbor is retired, he has 4 broken down boats rotting in his yard... i asked him why he isnt fishing every day and he had the nerve to tell me he got tired of fishing.... im not easily offended, but that comment ate a hole in my soul.... i work 70 hours a week and im lucky if i can fish once a month while this guy sits on a gold mine of leisure time and hasnt wet a line in years........... but, nobody ever said life is fair.... my time will come some day.... hope you thoroughly enjoy yours
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I keep a bag of every size split shot sinkers hanging on my wall for ballast weights... 1/32 oz, 1/16 oz, and 1/8 oz... ive weighed them and they are within a few 100ths of a gram from sinker to sinker, an insignificant difference
If you know where you need the weight, you can install it before carving and then sand the weight almost seemlessly into the body.... if you have to float test and place the weight after the body is carved, just cover it in super glue and baking soda, then sand that down flush with the body
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Someome, a non fisherman, once asked me how i come up with the ideas for all my lures... i didn't have a good answer to give him, because every lure has its own story... then later i realized that IS the answer
When i go fishing im simultaneously designing lures in my head... im thinking to myself what would be the perfect bait/rig/presentation/thing for these exact circumstances/conditions and indeed sometimes the specific spot im fishing... ive even designed and made a lure tailored to one cast i wanted to make
Thats the power we have as lure designers... we don't have to pace the fishing isle at Walmart making compromises, wishing they made this bait in a smaller size or that bait in a different color or this tail on that body or that lip on this profile or what have you
Lure design to me is filling a specific need without compromise... sometimes its a new idea, sometimes its a tweak on an old idea, sometimes its a triumphant success, sometimes its a spectacular failure.... either way its what makes me tick... ive transformed fishing from a sport into a puzzle
its human nature to always strive for incremental improvements in all aspects of life, and this hobby is no exception... it took me 2 years to completely fill my tackle box with homemade lures that all work, and in the process my building skills have improved to the point that im now pulling old lures out to be replaced with the new...... in my shop i have a "wall of shame" with all my failed designs and screw ups hanging proudly on display... my next project will be a "wall of fame" next to the former where ill retire all my successful lures that caught alot of fish but no longer meet my asthetic standards
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Weight centered in one spot creates kind of a pivot point that a lure can easily rotate around... spread the weight out and it reduces the pivot point
A great analogy for this was posted here some years back.... imagine holding a broom stick with a weight attatched to the center and spinning it back n forth... then imagine spinning the same broom stick back n forth with a weight attatched to each end
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Epoxy used for hardware ill handle gently after an hour... epoxy used for top coat i put it away somewhere safe and wont touch it until the following day... even if its set in an hour its still soft and sometimes still sticky
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I did however find a good use for the bad tube... since i also make soft baits, i used it to seal my masters... doesn't matter if theyre cloudy, as long as theyre smoothe and shiny
I use alot of devcon too, so getting the one bad tube is not indicitive of the quality of the product... theres no telling how many good tubes i went thru before and after that one... I always say D2T is like the Franks Red Hotsauce of my shop.... i put that sh*t on everything
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Yup... i got a bad tube once before, but only once.... also i run into difficulty in cold weather (unless i preheat the epoxy and everything it touches)... and the last bit in the tube never mixes right and can be cloudy sometimes
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Finally got to the real world test.... good thing i took the time to make a second diver modeled off the first one, because i lost the first one right off the bat... pretty sure i trolled over a barbed wire fence, i didnt think it ran out that far from shore, but i snagged the hell out of somthin
If it was the fence, it would have been about 4' tall, water was 27' deep and i had 100' of line out, so thats roughly 20' deep which correlates with almost losing the second one in 21' of water
Kinda frustrating that the only way to test the depth is to run it until it drags bottom, especially since this thing seems to dig into the bottom.... so thats another design aspect to think about, something that can drag bottom without getting stuck
So... it worked... but its not ideal
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For smaller/thinner swim baits i use twisted wire eyes and spinnerbait wire for the pin... For normal sized jointed baits i use screw eyes and a bicycle spoke for the pin
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No prob... definitely easier to see in a picture than to explain in words
The hard part tho, for me, is cutting the hinge slots once you have your pieces separated... i came up with an idea for that, but havnt tried it yet.... cool thing about PVC is it melts, so next time im gonna try heating up a nail or a piece of wire and melting the slots instead of cutting them
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Heres the basic idea... just set your fence up at the length you want to cut your joint and set your (idk what its called, angle guide) at 45 degrees... then cut without cutting all the way thru, then flip the block over without moving the fence and cut again....... then drill your pin hole.... then cut out your shape and do all your carving
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4 hours ago, bigblue2 said:
jrammit could you show a picture of how to cut the joint
I will as soon as i can get back in the shop... its our busy season at work (i haul propane) and these 14 hour days dont leave alot of time between work and sleep
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Oh, and its also easier to drill the pin holes in the block before cutting... youll need an acurate center line around the block to line up the tru hole on each side.... heres an easy way to mark the center of any flat piece of material
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Easiest way for me was to partially cut the joint before ever cutting out the lure shape.. in other words, cut a 45 degree angle part way thru each side of a block, then cut out your shape and do all your carving.. when youre finished carving, go back and finish the cuts
A band saw makes this alot easier since you can use the fence to line up the cuts perfectly on each side... and a little trick i found to finish the cuts without destroying the lure (or cutting off a finger), open up the door to the top blade wheel and turn it by hand
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3D scanning?... probably not... ive seen a few guys here use 3D printing to make molds, but usually of their own design.... maybe youll be the first, then some time in the future when someone asks about it again you can chime in
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Thats a good idea.... wish i woulda thought of that before i wrote down the weights and sizes in that space
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This has been on my to do list for a long time, finally got around to it and figured id share
Until now ive just used split shot sinkers as ballast weights, theyre surprisingly consistent in weight (down to a few hundredths of a gram), but got tired of my ballast and hook hangers fighting for hardware space
Here i was trying to make 2 cavities each of the sizes i use the most, 1/16 oz and 1/8 oz... i got as close as i could using drill bits of the same diameter and the actual split shots themselves to set the stop nut on the drill press... i was off by a couple tenths of a gram on each size, but ill take it
The picture is pretty self explanatory... super glued a few nails with points cut off for keys, then started each hole with a brad point bit and finished the depth with standard bits (using split shots for measurement as mentioned).. hook hanger eye inserts drilled out with 5/32" brad point
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My only idea is build what you want, then youre not limited to what you can find... plus its 100x more satisfying to catch fish on a lure you made with your own hands
Custom Jig Heads Topcoat Advice
in Hard Baits
Posted
Dip and hang.. just be mindful of the drip, i clamp mine hook down so i dont get cone head jigs