Yo Al
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Everything posted by Yo Al
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I wish I could offer more help, but my do-it essential series molds are painted with Duplicolor engine enamel with ceramic. It works great on them. I used Ford gray and use M-F plastic.
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I'm having the same issue using whatever browser my Samsung tablet calls Internet. No big deal till you figure it out.
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I've used MF 5.0 the last 2 years and it's been my favorite of the few plastisols I've used. I haven't had any issues with it. Can anyone who has used it compare it to other plastisols? I don't know whether to switch or stock up. I never tried their regular plastic, but I heard it gets oily after time. 5.0 hasn't had this issue for me. I use soft and medium. Thanks, Al.
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For small jigs I heat them holding the hook bend with pliers. Before I dip them I grab the eye with smooth jaw long nose pliers from Harbor Freight. I use 3 of them and alternate them so they stay cool. As long as the pliers are cool the powder doesn't stick to the eye. A bit tedious but it works for me. Hope this helps.
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The claws on the 3.75" are a lot bigger than the claws on the 3". Maybe 1.5 times as big.
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That craw is on tackle warehouse. Bizz Baits makes it. On their website they also sell the bts 702 which makes me think bts custom made this mold.
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Use the soft as is and see how many more fish you catch.
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I agree with Monte SS 100%. I have one injector dedicated to glass beads, a Caney Creek (now do-it). It's well worth the wear for the final product. I also recommend a silicone cup as the beads scratch Pyrex too. I also agree with Smallmouthaholic that glass beads shouldn't be run through a shooting star system. I could imagine damage not only to the injector but the pots and valve assembly. Overall I love this for baits I want weighted and transparent.(Now that I have the right media)
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Did you top off the mold with more hot plastic as it cooled? It looks more like drawing air down the sprue than air in the injector to me. Pouring plastic into the injector works just as well as drawing it from the cup for me.
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You can also try tilting the mold slightly as you pour those cavities.
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The stuff I bought from Harbor Freight says glass bead on the box and I had the same results as Mark. The one I bought from Amazon was from American Abrasive Supply-#80 mesh. Check out reviews on Harbor Freight for their glass beads. There are a lot of complaints that they switched to crushed glass at some point and still sell it as beads
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I would advise everyone to not get glass bead from Harbor Freight. Their newer stock of it is crushed glass not beads. One of my injectors is very gouged from using the crushed glass. I switched to glass bead from Amazon. It is much easier on the injector and makes a much clearer bait than the Harbor Freight stuff.
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I would buy some. Thanks Ben and Curt
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One of the molds I received today had the vent side sanded heavily. I had the same concerns so I heated some plastic and shot it. No issues at all. Worked perfectly. Btw my mold was a 3" 702 craw 4 cavity
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Dave- I would try a paste wax for a release agent. It works well for body filler and polyester resin. I think it might help even out the surface irregularities of the ABS too.
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I can deduce that the cavity didn't fill and spraying with graphite made it fill completely. As to why I don't know. Does break it surface tension? Act as an insulating barrier to prevent lead freezing on contact? I never gave it any thought before.
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I just checked Jann's and it looks like they only carry the essential series molds. There has been some discussion of them here. Search this forum for "essential". The molds work fine but have a sand textured finish.
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I have one and wouldn't buy any other vise. I've had up to a 6/0 heavy flipping hook in it and it will fit bigger. It's built to hold up and I don't think it will ever wear out from my hobby level use.
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A non-smooth texture on a bait is a bad thing because no one paid bags of money marketing one. Have an elite angler hold one up after a win and it will be the next big thing. Marketing can give many people more confidence in a bait than the fact it's good or not.
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I have the 7" ribbon tail mold. It shoots good and is a rough equivalent of a 7" powerworm. The cavity length is about 4 5/8". My favorite essential series mold so far is the finesse crawler. I think a little texture adds to this bait. The biggest drawback I've found with the sand texture is transparent baits get a frosted glass appearance.
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I have a Bogg's and I really like it for .051 wire, but if I was making huge musky inlines I would get the Hagen's. The bogg's will limit the length of an inline spinner to 6 1/8" from the end of each eye. Another thing to check out is Spoonpluggergino's homemade .051 twister in Homebrew Tools. It looks great to me.
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Lure Parts Online has the 10" Kalin's Big-N.
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You can get Teflon wire from www.contenti.com and cut it to length. Some industrial supply places also carry it but small diameters aren't carried by most of them. I don't know why the lure parts suppliers don't sell small pins.
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Sorry I didn't get back sooner. These guys cleared up the process. I agree with smalljaw on the smaller guards too.
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One cavity at a time lay a finishing nail where you want the weedguard. Close the mold and hit it with a hammer a few times. This will make a groove to use as a guide on each side of the mold. Open up the groove to fit the base pin with a file or drill. The cavities by the hinge will be harder because the hinge gets in the way. Short Teflon pins will be easier to fit and you might not be able to pour multiple cavities at one time.
