Jump to content

The Plastics Man

TU Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by The Plastics Man

  1. If you want it transparent , add your base colour/s to your raw plastisol. To make it opaque , add white to your cooked plastisol. this will lighten up your pumpkinseed colour so make sure to adjust. Here's my take in this colour
  2. Try Lurecraft Caramel If you want a darker berkley pumpkinseed, LC caramel , LC Natural to darken
  3. Well done .... I've been trying to find the website to this company. any links ? I have also noticed an update over at Jacobs where he is trying to catch up on back orders so it looks like he's back on track with production. Another email sent to secure a purchase. Hope he responds this time round
  4. Yes , from what I gather, the blending block with the Hotrunner model would have to be disassembled for the runner to be removed between shooting cycles Just another un wanted process to slow you down. Main question still unanswered. At least a reply for Rick with confirmation if they will be available and when.
  5. Has anyone heard or know of when Rick will be putting these back into production? Unable to place order via website. Have sent a couple of emails to Rick with no reply. Not wanting the other brand version with detachable but required blending block Ready, willing and waiting to depart with $$$ once available.
  6. I have used my unit roughly 4 times since receiving it a few months back... still nutting out the PID's and actual plastisol temps. to me the plastisol temps are way higher than what the temp probes are sending. Some molds prefer a lower temp to shoot laminates correctly whereas others are happy only at higher temps. Like said , still working out methods. When requiring perfect shots ( small production work) I've resorted back to the Basstackle dual injector and open pots for minimal wastage and time. Once workloads drop I may have time to re melt sprues and crud plastic to fully nut out the system and maximise it's potential Definitely not a plug and play unit .... but what is ?
  7. Thanks for the reply :-) It was a couple of weeks ago, but good news. There was a reply in my inbox this morning with all the required info about the units, Just waiting to find out how long of a lead time to have one built and shipped.
  8. Anyone here on this great forum who has direct contact with Ultramolds ? I have sent a contact us form and a direct email to them with no reply. Seeking further info on potential purchase of their Shooting Star System. Cheers
  9. Spot on there Mark. With a pre mixed Colored 55 Gal of plastic, enough volume to shoot a production mold, being cooked per shot, there's no over heating, repetitive re melting etc, etc. = consistency Even using a Jacobs press, and at a lower temp, lighter colors do yellow up a little ( not by much, but noticeable) as the quart runs down after several shoots. Thinking of adding an auto mixer just to keep the mix churning. Memory issue is how you store the final product while curing and how you either bag the product or store them. Plastisol is the main material used by all, just a plethora of brands and grades, then you have your custom in house blends.
  10. It's a pity that the port ( Nozzle) orientation cannot be changed. With the two posts and the nozzle being off set to the two chambers , it will not allow enough space for shooting laminates with certain molds. Jacobs do produce great consumer based machines. emailed Rick to see if the pro machine can be custom built to accommodate the correct orientation for my molds. unfortunately not :-(
  11. Quick question regarding the available scents on offer for soft bait makers. Is it sold as an extract providing the scent only or is it much like the refined oil which can be bought and consumed as a fish oil protein/ amino fatty acid supplement. I do not add any scent/ oils to my finished products but do add scent in the final stage of cooking my plastisol just before pouring. You hear of Amino infused soft baits. Just wondering if I'm on the right line of thought.
  12. What temps are you cooking at ? Never used the brand but, I've always cooked till the consistency was enough to shoot. Finally introduced an infra red thermometer to the process. I was way off ( Below). Now my curing time has been reduced by a week. Virtually a dry bait once cooled off.
  13. I know Clearbags.com can supply printed bags, This is where I buy my unprinted bags from. In saying this, they may have them manufactured and printed by third party offshore though. I've been looking at getting my printed bag supplies from china. Looked into it and ATM procrastinating about it
  14. Cheers Frank. As long as it doesn't affect the original intending colour ( unless it is placed under a black light). I do have a lot of clearer transparent colours in my range which I would not want to lose however, wanting to enhance them through using a UV liquid. The attached pic is black naturally and the same under the black light I have sent off a contact us form to Lureworks and wait for their response
  15. I'm getting specks through the finished product after, adding to virgin plastisol. Thought of doing the unthinkable and whisking the plastisol with a mixer on the drill, then heating a little then whisking again before it reached 100c Degree The specks may be a good thing, Who knows how a fish thinks and how aquatic life exhibits their colouring attributes I only have the green UV powder but I'm looking for some blues and a red if available The UV glo 130 seems to be an opaque colour which will be the dominating colour I guess. I'll send a message to LureWorks to confirm Thanks for the replies
  16. Thanks Frank. I did go to the website and found the Dip & Glo range. Not sure if it's obscure in the site or not but I'm looking for an additive to mix into virgin plastisol rather than just dipping the made lure into the bottle. I'm finding the UV reactant powder I have is not dissolving completely and was advised some time ago about going the liquid method.
  17. Just a quick Q, Liquid UV treatments to mix into your plastisol and colouring. Powder treatments just don't cut it for me. Any links to US suppliers ?
  18. I have found that some top inject molds do not like to be clamped but some do. I have a mold from BT in various sizes and one requires to be bolted using the provided hardware where as another size/s can be easily shot using clamps. Put it down to where the bolts are positioned in relation to the breathing channels. Clamping over the channels will produce a bad shoot with one little chin bubble just below the sprue and unintentional eye sockets. Try using different injection pressure.
  19. Usually, if I want a " Solid color" I add colorant after cooking virgin plastisol. Works well with liquid colors. Liquid white added "Hot" will also solidify whatever color you have added however you'll need compensate to achieve your intended result.
  20. Forgive me if there is a post/ thread buried through the pages, but has anyone heard of, used these temperature dependent changing color powders? Not that much out there in the cyber world relating to SP crafting. I would like to read up about it if there are any useful links or member experience.
  21. https://www.u-make-emsoftplastics.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&path=77_9&product_id=64 Australian supplier. Not sure if they ship internationally
  22. I'm sure that the OP is referring to a 5 lt electric pot with an external element underneath. The thermo control can be controlled. Have it set to 8 on the dial, it's regulated to 180c. I use one my self My first post here, just signed up to clarify the deep fryer Q for JRammit... Hello from Aussie. I'll navigate around and introduce myself :-)
  • Create New...