AZ Fisher

Colors above and I would add transparent leaf green and a plum purple...

I use eyescrews anywhere from .062 thru .092 thickness, from 3/4 inch long to 1.5 inch long depending on the size lure. You can find them at Barlows, Lurepartsonline, and Jann's Necraft, all tackle hardware suppliers, or Ebay. I'm making 6-10 inch swimbaits.

There's many ways of making molds and pouring resin baits, this is just what I do. Most of my baits, especially glides, have wider shoulder/back than belly or stomach area. Those wide shoulders create a high/higher center of gravity. When I have an even density pour, meaning MB's{micro balloons} are mixed evenly thru the resin, the bait will want roll from side to side as it swims/glides. I don't want or like that roll in a bait. Hooks, split rings and hook hangers alone, are usually not enough to counter the higher center of gravity. I pour with the molds vertical, belly/hook hangers down, dorsal fin on top. I pour thru a small spru hole on the top of the mold. I place my weights and hook hangers in the bottom of the mold prior to pouring. I pour with the mold on a digital scale so I can pour exact amounts of solid resin to the gram. I mix my resin amount for the whole bait but only pour about 25% solid resin in the bottom of each sections mold, enveloping the weights. I then quickly mix the correct weighed amount of MB's into the remaining resin and fill the molds with the MB'd/less dense resin. This creates a heavier bottom/higher density and a lighter/less dense top of the bait. I find the upward migrating MB's help this process. Unfortunately it also creates lots of bubbles and small surface imperfections in the top/back of the bait that have to be filled. The heavier bottom/lighter top helps the bait orient itself quicker upon splash down/landing and will help the bait swim and glide more upright/ vertical with less or no roll. It also helps the bait swim and cut from side to side better. Engineered Angler on Youtube has some vids on pouring resin baits with MB's, worth the watch. Hope this helps...

Add micro balloons or micro spheres to your resin while mixing. Approx 8% micro balloons by weight for low float, 10% for a very buoyant floating bait, if memory serves

Ebay, Amazon and Aliexpress all carry a variety. Ali used to have the largest selection. Look into fingernail foils also, come in smaller rolls and widths, will cover the sides of smaller cranks, jerks and poppers

If you're looking for really bright florescent coverage, a white undercoat or primer will help greatly, especially with chartreuse. Light coats and heat set in between as mentioned above. I reduce the paints quite a bit for spraying over foil, so I don't kill the shine. Little at a time and heat set. It's easy with reduced paints or transparents to spray it too heavy because you can't see the pigment as well.

Here's one way. I think JR Hopkins had a similar method but used scotch tape to hold the tail's shape, then epoxy into place.

Private group, gotta join, best I can do...

I just saw on FB, on the Lure Making and Painting page, a guy named Dan Schwartz posted how he painted and cleared his chrome, and products he used. Best looking chrome I have seen to date, really pops and the clear doesn't dull the shine.

Yep, it is tin cure, I thought the opposite...

Dave, I have used the Rustoleum 2X matte clear for sealing at least ten baits that I molded and had no curing issues with the silicone. I do about 3 light to med coats and it doesn't seem to fill in much detail. Again, I normally say stay away from Rustoleum products, but this one has worked for me. I let the matte clear dry and off gas a few days in the sun I have been using Smooth-On 29NV and Sprayway #946 Silicone release agent. I've always waited only and hour or two past the cure time to unmold the master. Hope you get'r figured out...

I usually say stay away from Rustoleum 2X clear like the plague, but they have a matt finish clear that I have used that looked OK. Knowing that if it touches plastic, plastisol, vinyl and or some silicones is can react, melt and start to make a sticky mess. I haven't sprayed the spray can version of KBS, but dipped and sprayed the quart stuff and it's very glossy.

Are you talking about sealing a master copy or just wall hangers for display?