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JD_mudbug last won the day on May 8

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  1. https://cart.saltwaterplugs.com/tail-weights.html Maybe you could use these tail weights with the cup washer. You could trim the weights to fit your lures. Maybe you can find a tail weight mold or someone who has one? I don't know if anyone on here has the mold that could make you some. I could not find the mold for sale anywhere. Maybe you could use a bullet nose or worm nose type mold instead with a piece of shaft wire to preserve the shaft hole. https://barlowstackle.com/Do-It-Bullet-Nose-Jig-Molds-P228/ https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Worm-Nose-Sinker-WNS-6-A
  2. I have not seen a solid half sphere. Maybe the one in the bait above is a cup washer with a piece of lead inside. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Cup-Washers_2?quantity=1&custcol13=157 You could make a wood mold with a pin in it to pour the lead. You could also just fill the cup washer with lead or tungsten putty or even JB weld which is pretty heavy. You may have to open up a bait to see what is on inside. I have some baits with ends finished with cup washers. The body ends are rounded to fit the cup. They just put epoxy in the cup to bond it and the end wrap smu
  3. I agree with Azsouth in looking at the total weight of the spinner compared to the blade size. I have a couple of size 4 and 5 French blade spinners with bodies that weigh over an ounce for fishing deeper water in reservoirs. These spinners would be useless in a stream and most rivers. I prefer the standard thickness blades. I want the blades spin as easily as possible. I find the thick blades can be tough to get start spinning. The thick ones can spin lazily and look unnatural. I use the LPO regal finish blades and painted blades. I mostly use French blades as they seem to spin the easie
  4. They are called solid beads. The Musky Shop carries them in brass and nickel plated brass. The largest size they carry is 3/8" diameter and have a .063" hole. https://www.muskyshop.com/products/components-lure-building-solid-brass-beads-per-10-pack?_pos=3&_sid=164c41d09&_ss=r You might be able to find some in stainless by looking for stainless steel beads for jewelry making. https://www.etsy.com/listing/659584710/stainless-steel-polished-beads-round?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=solid+stainless+steel+beads&
  5. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aUd5zpGwA5Y The loudest rattling bait I have made was based on the above video. Drill a small pilot hole through the body being careful to avoid internal hardware. Then, I used a forstner bit on each side to drill out a disc on each side just a hair deeper than a dime. I think it was a ¾” bit, maybe 5/8”. A dime should sit being just a hair under flush. Once the disc holes are drilled, use a ½” (or 3/8”) bit to widen the pilot hole going through the bait. Seal the hole with superglue. Put one dime in place and glue/epoxy it in. Once dry, place that d
  6. I like the idea of the Rapala. How about a jointed Rapala. Back in the day when I fished from a rowboat, I would drag a J11 jointed Rapala behind the boat when I was rowing from spot to spot. It's nice if you are on a new body of water you want to explore and keep a lure in the water. It caught lots of fish and I didn't have to worry about getting snagged. You can wake the J11 Rapala if you hold your rod tip up and slow the retrieve a bit. You can hit the same depths as a squarebill with the rod down. You can also deadstick twitch it on the surface. It find it versatile and productive. You ma
  7. I use .032 on 1/4 oz and some 3/8 oz compact frame spinnerbaits for bass. .035" wire on large frame 3/8 oz baits and most 1/2 oz spinnerbaits. .040" wire on 3/4 oz spinnerbaits and some 1/2 oz for targeting pike. .051" on 1 oz and heavier spinnerbaits. I only have a couple of .062 wire spinnerbaits for pike/musky because that wire is such a pain to bend. The longer the wire and/or the heavier the head, I lean to the thicker wire. The more compact the frame and lighter the head, I lean to the thinner wire. On a straight in-line spinner, you could get away with
  8. There is a Roumba Wake and a Roumba crank. Both have similar bodies. The Roumba wake dives 0-1'. The Roumba crank goes 1-3'. The bait in your pic looks like a knockoff of the Roumba, not the actual Roumba. The knockoff runs deeper than both of the actual Roumbas. I have the knockoff which does run 3-4'. The knockoff is my bottom pic, sexy chrome color. The lip of the knockoff is steeper than the lip of the actual Roumbas which is why the knockoff dives deeper. The Roumba lip points down more whereas the knockoff lip is angled more towards the line tie. There is probably some va
  9. It looks like a knockoff copy of an Ima Roumba. The lip is different from the Roumba and Ima prints a logo or Roumba on the back of the bait. Here is a link to the unpainted blank. It is out of stock. https://www.wlure.com/collections/blank-crankbait/products/fishing-lures-blank-crankbaits-upc677-br-2-inch-1-4-oz?variant=21056627277942 I have one of the painted knockoffs. Wlure no longer has the painted ones on their site. Here is one link for the painted knockoffs. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32950024121.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.19
  10. The only thing I can think off is with the traditional buzzbait (top lure) the frog will sit a bit lower in the water than the inline. This may get a few more strikes from fish hesitant to break the surface. Some people say inline buzzbaits get on plane faster but I haven't notice a difference with a frog on it. In pike and musky country, the inline is easier to fish with a leader. You will have to put surgical tubing over the R bend on a traditional bait or the leader snap could slide up or down the arm. I don't like to change blades on a traditional buzzbait. Before I put the rivet on,
  11. Before you cut that wood master, you could mold it to make multiple masters. That way you can experiment on where to make the cut for the molding of the two halves. The original sketch looks like 60% resin front half and 40% paddle tail. The longer the paddle tail section the more it can flex and kick. If you mold 3 masters from the one uncut master, you could try a 50/50 or 40/60 ratio of front-to-back sections in addition to 60/40 sketch.
  12. Like Hillbilly, I start with a drill bit to get a rough cone shape hole in the middle. Followed by ball and bullet shaped burrs and stones to get the cup close to shape. I get the final shape with a ball nose sanding cap. The caps come in different grits and sizes. The mandrels for the caps come in different sizes to match the various caps. I got some in an off-brand dremel-like accessory kit from a local discount tool store. You can find the caps and mandrels on Amazon and various websites. https://mdiwoodcarvers.com/t/ball-nose-sanding-caps-and-mandrels?page=1
  13. Once you have the head carved, how about using some of the paddle tails already on the market and cutting shaving them to fit with an Xacto knife. If your like me, you probably already own a bunch. This might get you in the ballpark without much effort and cut down on the amount of work. Lots of them available for $5 and under a pack. It would only waste one bait out of a pack. Even if a particular bait doesn't work with your head, you can just fish the pack normally. Once you find a paddletail that gives you the action you want, you can make mold that combines the tail dimensions of the exis
  14. Boss makes plastic skirt hubs and lead skirt hubs. I have used the plastic hubs on wire. The plastic hubs are very durable . Maybe one of those products would work. https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/BOSS_Punch_Hub_5pk/descpage-BOSSPCH.html https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/BOSS_Lead_Punch_Hub_10pk_/descpage-BOSSLDHUB.html At one point, I believe Boss also made the hubs in aluminum. You could try contacting Boss directly if you want a bulk order or to see if they still make the aluminum ones. https://www.fishboss.com/products/ Boss also makes a skirt flare band. I thin
  15. I use SS shaft wire or a cut section of a SS steel nail for pins. I will use regular steel nails if I don't have the other two for freshwater. I keep the pin in by trying to not drill all the way through the bottom of the bait. The top hole and the bottom hole, if I drill through, get plugged with a tooth pick or small dowel and super glue. The bottom hole gets plugged first if I happen to drill through the bottom if the bait. Cut the point of a round toothpick off so it just barely won't go in the hole. Put the glue on the toothpick and use slight force to jam it in. You don't need
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