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JD_mudbug last won the day on September 17

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  1. I have not seen epoxy melt glitter. I have made baits out of wood, pvc, lead, brass and have used a few different epoxies. I have also used glitter nail polish with a top coat of epoxy and that worked. I don't have much experience with vinyl paint. I have only used it on small crappie jigs with no glitter. I have seen some vinyl jigs get gummy but I don't clear coat those tiny jigs. Once, I did foil an old 4" diamond jig. The jig had to be either Bead or Marathon. I remember doing each side individually and trimming with a razor knife. I think I used D2T as a top coat on that. It lasted a few years and then water started getting under the foil from dings on the edges of the jig. The foil is still on the jig but has been discolored in spots on the edges by the water. You could also try one of the foil Jig Skins. I have a few lures with a foil herring on them. One is a 6" bar/slab type jig. It still looks good after 2 years and maybe a dozen fish. It is coated with D2T.
  2. Definitely looks like a boat hull. I have always had this image in my mind that Luhr Jensen had an aerodynamic wind tunnel and used it to come up with the body design. I have wondered if the small notch line on the back actually did something or if it is was just to catch fisherman by making the lure look less plain. After Rapala bought Luhr Jensen in 2006, Rapala moved the production to China and then to Indonesia. My Speed Traps are from before 2006. They have Made in the USA in the package and the old Oregon address. I am going to pick up some of the new ones to compare.
  3. The wLure blank UPM515 is the closest I have seen to the size 5 Smash Shad. It might be an option for you as most of the blanks seem to be the size 7. The blank is between the size 5 and the size 6 Smash Shad. The Smash Shad size 6 is 2 and ½”. The blank is a 2 and 1/3” long. wLure has a video of the action. https://www.wlure.com/collections/blank-minnow/products/fishing-lures-blank-minnow-upm515?variant=16898554438 It’s on Amazon as well https://www.amazon.com/wLure-Unpainted-Jerkbait-Floating-UPM515P10/dp/B00QZPAH34/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=wlure+upm515&qid=1631586915&sr=8-1
  4. You’re welcome, Jig Man. Nice looking standup jig head. Years ago when I used to pour, I needed to modify spinnerbait mold on short notice and couldn’t remember what I had used to block the lead. It was a mold I borrowed so I couldn’t permanently alter it. I used either a skirt collar or a disc punched from a silicone cooking mat. I may have used both ways at some point. I’m glad the skirt collar worked. I made some spinnerbaits without a molded skirt collar to mate a paddle tail swimbait or craw directly to the spinnerbait head with a bent wire type bait keeper. The bait had no skirt. I made a ½ and 3/4 ounce model with a single Colorado blade. It is like an upsized Beetle Spin for bass. Just cut the tip off the head of a soft plastic bait flat and put it on the spinnerbait with a drop of gel superglue. It works great for re-using damaged soft plastic baits. If I had enough time to make a big batch, I would use RTV on the mold. I wanted to make my own mold for that bait and incorporate a corkscrew into it. But, I never got around to it.
  5. Just throwing out some ideas. How about using a silicone skirt collar, a disc punched from a silicone cooking mat, or high temp RTV to block around the hook? Maybe you could use some mold-making material to make a bunch of discs/cylinders with notches in them to fit around the hook.
  6. Backwater Outfitting has an X8 and X10 blank that are like the X-rap. I have not tried any blanks from this place. Going by the listed size, their X blanks appear to be a bit shorter from the X-rap. https://backwateroutfitting.com/product/x-factor-unpainted-jerkbait/
  7. I have been told the Speed Trap is made out Butyrate a.k.a. Cellulose Acetate Butyrate. I don't know if that has been changed. Butyrate is weaker than ABS of the same thickness. Butyrate is easier to mold into very thin-walled items like the Speed Trap. A lot of Speed Traps end up with small dents/dimples from the molding process. Take a look at the belly of your Speed Traps. I know some lure companies will use Butyrate for some models to get a different rattle sound than other lures. It produces more of a deep thud type sound. I am a fan of the Speed Trap too. It is a great lure. The Metallic Perch color is one on my favorites. Of course, they discontinued that color. I have one that I painted black that works great too. Mark, I know you have made your own version of the Speed Trap which looks great. I thought you might like to read the 'Tech Sheet'. Jim SpeedTrap tech sheet.pdf
  8. You're welcome. There are also resins and (compressed) foams. You can achieve almost any type of buoyancy with those. Some of the large bass swimbaits are made of those. They seem to be used in smaller production runs. Plastic is easier to use in mass production. You can also go with one type of plastic for the diving lip like polycarbonate and ABS for the body. The lip is stamped or cut and the body is molded separately. The lip is glued into the body like a Grandma type musky bait.
  9. Mass production lure companies use a variety of plastics. The common types are acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS), polycarbonate, and polypropylene. The different types can also be blended. Each company has their own formulas. The precise formulas are trade secrets. A Berkley square bill may use a different formula from a Bomber square bill even if they are same general type of plastic. A company may use a different formula or different type of plastic for each product line. A Bomber square bill may use a different type of plastic from a Saltwater Magnum Long A. Companies choose a plastic for a certain density, weight, durability and cost based on what they want the lure to do. The density of each type of plastic changes some based on the particular formula. ABS is somewhere around 1.06 g/cm^3. Polycarbonate is around 1.20 g/cm^3. Polypropylene is around 0.92 g/cm^3. If I had to guess, the most common type of plastic used in a typical bass size lure is some type of ABS. ABS is in the mid-range in terms of density of the 3. It can provide a wide variety of buoyancy based on the thickness, the size of the hollow chamber and internal weighting. ABS is typically cheaper than polycarbonate. It is strong and durable enough for a typical bass size lure. Some of the larger saltwater lures are made of polycarbonate because it is more durable and impact resistant. Big saltwater lipped lures are usually made of some type of polycarbonate or they wouldn’t survive. Polypropylene is used in some saltwater lures like big top waters and big lipless trolling lures. These rely on a wire harness with heavy hardware for strength and need more buoyancy.
  10. I have painted some nickel blades as basskat suggested- rough up with steel wool or scotch brite, wipe clean, paint, and clear with Rustoleum 2x Clear. Both the paint and clear were rattlecan. When using the Rustoleum 2x, I do a couple of light coats to keep it thin and avoid drips at the blade tips. That paint and clear have lasted fairly long so far. You can also use finger nail polish and Sally Hansen Hard as Nails as a clear. Some of the glitter nail polishes look good on a nickel blade. When I paint blades, I usually do batches of 5-10. It really isn't much effort. The only pain is drying time for the paint and clear which really isn't that bad. In most lure making endeavors, there is going to be wait time. I usually only paint blades for custom patterns or a color I can't purchase. If you are looking to make a custom paint job on a blade an easy method is to use the cheap painted LPO blades. These blades are the 'H' series and are cheaper than both the premium and regal series. These blades are painted a matte base coat without a clear. Basically, the prep work including base coat have been done for you. You can use tape or stencils to come up with most anything. Just wipe any dust off and you're ready to paint. I have used the white blades a lot as they make a good base coat for just about anything like rainbow trout blades, red white stripe blades, and slate blue blades. I use the chartreuse blades to make firetiger blades, chartreuse red diamond blades, and mustard colored blades. I have added yellow dots to the orange blades and black blades for pike. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Painted-Willow-Blades?quantity=1&custcol_blade_spoon_size=52 https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Painted-Colorado-Blades https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Colorado-Deep-Cup-Blades https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Painted-Indiana-Blades
  11. LPO and Jann's have the double clevis. They are quite large and thick in gauge. I have some and they are the size of two size 6 clevises attached end to end. They are made for larger in-lines typically size 5 blades and up. I have gotten two size 4 French blades to spin on them. I have not tried anything smaller on them because the gauge is thick. They are just a hair under 3/4" long (between 11/16 and 3/4) which will add a lot of length to a small spinner. I have not seen a double clevis in a smaller size for sale. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Double-Clevises?quantity=1&keywords=clevis&page=1 https://www.jannsnetcraft.com/lure-clevises/320915.aspx Stacked or nested clevises work better with larger blades. You can get the easier-to-spin French blades to work on a stacked set up in smaller sizes. I have size 3 French blades from LPO stacked and they work. I have a stacked size 4 swing blade spinner and a stacked size 5 Colorado and that spin fine. The Colorado spinner is two of of the flat Colorado blades. I mostly use 2 blades on larger spinners for bass/pike/musky. I have not tried smaller stacked blades.
  12. I would try bending the loops yourself. I mostly use round nose pliers, needle nose pliers, and vice grips for wire work. My round nose pliers have a stepped jaw. I also use a bench vise to hold nails and bits of metal rod to make bends around those on heavier wire. You get good at it real quick. Unless you plan on making a lot, I don't know if a wire former is worth it. I buy my shaft wires with a loop on one end. I build my spinners from the bottom up. At the line tie end, I bend the loop with the tools above. I sometimes use a Shyster type line tie loop. I sometimes put a swivel on the line tie loop of larger spinners. I am not sure if a wire forming tool can do those easily. I attach the hook by split ring on the loop that came on the shaft. I have made around 100 spinners over the past few years as I got into species other than bass. At most, I made maybe 25 a year which is not a lot. If I had to break it down, I probably have 40 for trout (sizes 1 to 3), 30 for bass and pike (sizes 4 - 6), another 20 or so in the size 4-6 range with hooks for soft plastic trailers, and around a dozen .051 wire musky bucktail type spinners. Now that I have a supply built up, I make only a couple a year to try something new or re-shaft a mangled spinner. At one point, I had a wire former from Twist-tech (which was good). It only did small wires so I didn't use it much. You had to buy an extra kit to do .040 wire which I like on size 5 spinners because I fish in pike waters. You also needed another larger wire former to do .045 and .051 wire. Because I have to use from .025 all the way to .051 wires, I would rather spend the money on blades and other components. A screw-up only costs you a wire shaft. You can buy a lot of shafts with that money. Once you start making them, wire bending becomes easy and you rarely screw-up. Side note: For wire twist eyes on hardbaits, I bought these pliers. I paid $10. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082SX8D4G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The 9" pliers work fine. You just need to use a glove because the knurling on the knob is harsh when new. Took a couple of tries to get good at it by twisting the wire around a nail in a vise. Well worth the $10. Don't waste your time on the 6", too flimsy.
  13. I get my blades from LPO, Janns, or Barlows. It depends on who has the best price on what I need at that moment. Just type in 'prop', 'propeller blade', 'delta blade', or 'buzz blade' into their sites' search box. Some different types are called 'chopper', 'woodchopper', or 'dumbell' props. I have made some blades out of sheet metal but I find it is just easier to buy them. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/search?keywords=prop&page=1 https://www.jannsnetcraft.com/Search/propeller blades.aspx https://barlowstackle.com/search.php?search_query_adv=prop&section=product The ones in the pics are called Delta blades or (counter rotating) buzz blades. The props/blades come in different sizes and also list if they are clockwise (CW) or counter clockwise (CCW). Smaller size blades tend to only come in one spin direction. You should be able to eliminate roll with ballast. If the bait is really flat like the side profile of a baitfish (like the bass lure above), on a rare occasion the bait lands upside down (with the hooks up) and doesn't flip to its proper running side even with ballast. A rod jerk at the start of the cast will get to flip to the right side. The top side of that bass bait is painted flo orange so I can see it on a long cast. I have seen some big Japanese topwaters that had put bright spots on the top so the angler could see what the bait was doing on the retrieve. The fish never see that part of the bait. If I don't see the flo orange top on that bait, I know it landed upside down and didn't flip. I have some other flat baits where I just paint a bright spot or stripe on top for visibility. It doesn't happen often, but its annoying if you retrieve a lure and it's messed up and didn't know it. The more rounded bodies usually land correctly as they rotate to the proper side on landing.
  14. LHL, great point about the Z bend on a wire through bait. I ran into that problem on the wire through baits and did a Z bend as well. I forgot about that until your post. The body on bass colored bait has a rivet set into the ends of the body to stop the Z bend from sliding into the bait. It looks like on some lure bodies I used cup washers and on others I used a rivet set into the wire through shaft hole. The first pic shows a closeup of my Z from the side. I had the Z bend drop down. I also made one wire through that ended in a loop at the tail end of bait (gold colored bait). Off that loop, I attached a second short piece of shaft wire by creating a loop through the loop at the end of the body. This will also stop the shaft wire sliding as the loop is the stop. I never really like the way the blade hangs down at rest once I saw it in the water. It looks unnatural to me. I saw some baits like this and decided to try it. It works. It just looks weird to me. I prefer the lures with one shaft wire with the Z bend.
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