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JD_mudbug last won the day on November 12

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  1. I have used the Proberos hooks from China off aliexpress. I have only used the model 35647 1x hooks. Those hooks are good for the price. You may get a hook or two with a damaged point in a 50 pack. With their price being cheap for big hooks, I can tolerate a couple of bad ones. Proberos also makes 2x , 3x and 4x hooks. The 3x and 4x hooks from there are tinned and not black nickel, if that matters. There is a price jump from the 3x to the 4x. I don't know about the quality of those heavier gauge hooks. You could order a 10 pack to see if you like them. The 10 packs are in stock. You can also search for the model numbers to see if other vendors have them in stock in the bigger packs. You can also ask them if they would do a bulk wholesale order. I know they sell some of their normal gauge treble hooks in bulk 500 packs. Model 8003-2x. 2x- black nickel. 50 packs are out of stock now https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256801658561810.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.683938daF0pN7x&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US Model 8008-3x. 3x tinned. 50 packs are out of stock now https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256801658142325.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.683938daF0pN7x&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US Model ST66-4x. 4x tinned. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804805648298.html?pdp_npi=2%40dis!USD!US %241.25!US %240.69!!!!!%402100bb5116698240472802540eb687!12000031266462473!sh&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US
  2. I also am a co-poly fan for moving baits. Yozuri Hybrid is probably my favorite. Pline Fluoro Clear is also good. If I am in pike/musky waters, I almost always go with Berkley Trilene Big Game on moving baits. It has some of the best shock absorption when a big fish hits a moving bait. Plus, it is very affordable allowing for more frequent re-spooling. I tie a 9-12" leader with AFW 7x7 Coated Surflon in Camo color. Pike have a nasty habit of inhaling #4 and 5 spinners. I have had two reels damaged on strikes by pike when throwing an inline on braid, one a broken gear tooth and the other broke the end off the line pawl.
  3. How about trying a 'High Heat' , 'Engine' or 'Caliper' paint from Rustoleum, Krylon, Duplicolor, VHT, Por-15, KBS Motor Coater? It comes in rattle cans and liquid cans in a variety of colors including white. You can find the temp tolerances in the descriptions and the tolerances are usually quite high.
  4. Outlaw4 You reminded me that I never got around to trying hydro-dipping baits using oil-based spray paints in a bucket of water last winter. It looks like I should be able to get some interesting patterns without a lot of effort.
  5. A combination of rattlecans, hand painting, and Sharpies. You can accomplish quite a bit with those and stencils, netting, 1/8" to 1/2" masking tape. I still use rattle cans for primer and base layers especially on large baits. For some small details and touch ups, I have done a quick rattle can spray into a plastic cup to make a little pool of spray paint. Then, I use a small paint brush from Walmart to hand paint with the paint from a spray can. (30 for $2 in the crafts section). This can come in handy when you get a blemish from removing tape, a bug landing on wet spray paint, or if you drop a bait mid paint job and only get a couple of paint chips. Sometimes a screw up is savable with out starting over.
  6. I have ordered from Predator Baits a few times and like their quality. I have also had good luck with Dinger, Cedar Run and Shelt's. In case you did not see it, there is a pinned post at the top of the Hard Baits forum with a good list of blank lure suppliers. They each have a different selection of blanks. If you test blanks before you paint them, you should seal the line tie and hook hangers with a bit of superglue. Sometimes there are tiny holes that can let water in.
  7. I have some baits coated from Jan-Feb of 2018 with D2T. No yellowing yet. I usually write my initials and date made inside the joint or somewhere on the bait. I don't leave my baits out in the sun when not is use. Make sure you get the 2 Ton 30 minute one. The 5 minute Devcon will yellow. The packaging does look similar. Even though the package says 30 minutes, it is more like 10-15 minutes before it starts to set. I also like to use T type trebles or Ewg trebles to cut down on rash. I will sometimes T bend some trebles like the Ali 35647 model if I don't want to spend for Owner ST-35s or Mustad KVDs. I have not used UV yet. Once I get around to building a UV light set up, I am going to try the following UV resin https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08YMTFM7D/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B08YMTFM7D&linkCode=as2&tag=engineereda06-20&linkId=af7e71c648cd23380fcbc3423ddb6bf9 Engineered Angler's video provides some great info https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NVyA-F4tosE&t=20s You would need at least two coats of UV to hold up to teeth, maybe more. I think the speed of curing is a huge plus. I also like how you can put it on a rotisserie to level it out before turning on the lights. Mark is correct on D2T glue type vs. Etex decoupage type. D2T is very tooth and hook rash resistant. When it does fail, it seems more likely a piece will chip off than with Etex. Damn bridges. I also think if the wood is not completely dry that D2T is more likely to crack from wood expansion. It is rare but I have seen it a couple of times. D2T is easy to find in a double syringe for $6 in my area. My small local hardware store carries it. I would suggest you try that before getting the bigger bottles. D2T is very easy to use. I mix by eye even when using the larger bottles. I like it for pike/musky waters. I also noticed on the last few packages I bought they had printed a Use By date on them. I don't remember that in the past. I like to buy it in the store if possible. I like to look at the packages so I can buy the clearest one and the newest one. Etex is easier for teeth to penetrate but has a better chance of surviving rocks. I have a few Etex coated wooden baits that have small dents but the Etex top coat is still intact. It just flexed with dent. I have several Etex baits going on 5 years and no yellowing either. I think Etex is a bit more temperamental than D2T. I have to pay more attention to mixing and environmental conditions with Etex. I have recoated damaged sections of both types of epoxy and the patches have held so far.
  8. Do you mean twisting the wire so one of the twists will have a space in it held open by the tube so you can cross-pin the twist-eye screw? I have never done that. I think I would just do wire-through at that point. It would be probably easier. When I do twist wire eyes, I twist the wire around a nail/rod in a vice. Cut the screw to length. Cutting the twisted part with mini-bolt cutters usually causes the end to flare wider than the rest of the twists so I file the flared part to keep the diameter the same and give it a bit of a point. Filing takes a minute or 2 but I don't like making the pilot hole bigger than necessary. I drill my pilot hole just big enough for the screw to fit. I then drill a small cup maybe an 1/8th inch deep with the end of a bigger drill bit to set the base of the eye in. I often do this by hand with just a drill bit so I don't go too deep with the cup. The screw eye will twist in with left handed twisting. I do a dry test fit to check length and back it out with right hand twisting. Then, I put epoxy in the hole with scrap wire, cheap syringe if I have one, or baggie with the corner cut off. I then coat the twisted part of the screw with epoxy and screw in by hand or using pliers. Wipe away the excess with a paper towel. Your final clear coat will also give a bit more strength as that will cover the base of the screw eye too. When I do wire-through, I use drop wires with loops on each end for hook eyes so the main wire will pass through the drop wire. Sometimes, I will use a barrel swivel in the same way instead of a drop wire. Jim
  9. .062 is strong enough. Wire thicker than .062 is hard to twist. I use .062 on large baits 2+ oz and .051 on smaller baits. .040 on typical bass size baits. I would consider going thicker than .062 when the lure is going to be over 6 oz. I sometimes have used a combo of .062 on the line tie and single screw joints and .051 for hook connections and 2 parallel screw and pin joints. I have only used Malin and US Wire stainless safety lock wire / aircraft lock wire. If you are buying wire twisting pliers, don't waste money on the 6" inch ones. They are too flimsy to twist .051 and up. Get 9" pliers or larger.
  10. Wire through is the way to go. I would go with twisted wire eyes and epoxy before .092 screws on musky baits. The force on a lure of a musky or pike thrashing in the net is brutal. You may not notice a screw eye opening up. Once the eye starts to open, it will fail in short order. It could fail on the next fish. If you do use the .092 screws, I would countersink a cup-shaped divot for the bottom of the screw eye to sit in. When the cup is filled with epoxy, the base of the screw eye will be embedded in epoxy and reduce the chance of the screw eye opening up. I have used gate hardware screws which are over .125" and noticed one had started to open up on a 38" pike. The first pike on that lure put it out of action. You put a lot of effort into making a lure to have it fail on one fish. Wire-through is easy once you make a few baits. If you are making a hinge with 2 screws coming out of the back of the front section and 2 slots plus pin in the back half, have the screw eye gap spots facing opposite directions. If one of the screws eyes start to open to the side, the force of the pull will be be against the solid side of the other screw eye. I have had that happen. Unfortunately, it was a snapping turtle and not a fish.
  11. I have made several baits where the lip is close to the front hook hanger. If the hook catching the lip does become a problem, I find that a short shank treble of the same size will usually fix it. I use Mustad KVD Elite 2X Short Shank Trebles and Owner St-35 when I run into problems.
  12. Cedar Run Outdoors also carries a .5 and 1.0. https://cedarrunoutdoors.com/unpainted-blanks/square-bills/?sort=alphaasc&page=1
  13. Day or night, I don't use a trailer hook on a spinnerbait most of the time. Very rarely there is a day where the fish just nip at it and I use a trailer hook then. That doesn't seem to happen at night at all. At night, I find the fish seem to fully commit when they strike. Night time strikes right at the boat can be heart stopping.
  14. When I fish at night, I use black nickel blades on dark nights. I use silver plate or nickel blades on nights with a bright moon or when there a lots of shore lights. I sometimes use LPO glow blades or white blades coated with Folk Art Glow in the Dark paint. I really only use the glow blades in murky water at night. I seem to get more blade strikes when using glow blades in normal conditions. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Glow-Colorado-Blades?quantity=1&custcol10=540&page=1 Instead of dulling a good gold blade, you could buy the cheap economy brass blades. The come fairly dull. You could scuff them up with a Scotch bright pad to make them even duller. I agree with Smalljaw on the arm length on a 3/4 oz bait. I find I have better luck with 1/2 oz bait with #5 Colorado or Mag Willow/Oklahoma with a shorter arm of 2-3/4 to 3-1/4", especially in shallow water and around cover. For trailers, during the day I use a Zoom or Luck e Strike spinnerbait trailer. I tend use a thin trailer that doesn't do much or even no trailer because I don't want to interfere with the flutter of the skirt. At night, I either go with no trailer or will use a grub or cut off trick worm. Spinnerbait trailers can be hard to find in black. I might use a craw if I wanted to keep the bait higher in the water column or if I was hopping it off the bottom.
  15. Hi, Welcome to the site. Here are some guesses. Better close-up pics of the ones not identified below would help. Lure lengths would also help. 1. Bill Lewis Stutter Step 2. Cabela’s Mean Eye Crankbait Shallow 3. (need a better pic) 4. Strike King Red Eye Shad 5. River 2 Sea Snub Crankbait 6. Luhr Jensen Sugar Shad 7. (need a better pic) 8. (need a better pic) 9. Strike King Squarebill 1.5 10. Strike King Red Eye Shad 11. possible Jann’s Netcraft FG Squarebill. I have some in different colors and the lines match. 12. Strike King Pro Model Series 3 Crankbait 13. (squarebill, need a closeup to see molding lines) 14. Ima Squarebill 15. (a better side pic might help) Looks like a painted fin on there? 16. Fairly common, might be hard to identify. Looks like a knock off the discontinued Cabela’s Dig It crankbait (not the Dig It Craw). 17. Bandit 100 Series Crankbait 18. Strike King Squarebill 2.5. Chartreuse Crazy Shad color which has been very effective for me the past couple of years. I am a sucker for the old school crackle back look on that bait. 19. Strike King Squarebill 1.5 20. Gary Yamamoto Midasu Lipless Crankbait (fish in pupil is the giveaway) 21. Rapala Scatter Rap 22. (squarebill*, need a closeup to see molding lines) 23. (squarebill*, need a closeup to see molding lines) 24. A better pic will help. Looks like there is a small dorsal fin? 25. (squarebill*, need a closeup to see molding lines) 26. This minnow has a rearward point at the top of the gill plate. I have seen it somewhere but can’t remember where. I will keep looking for it. 27. L&S Mirrolure, could be a Top Dog model 28. Bass Pro Shops XPS popper (no red gill line), discontinued model, new one is different 29. Booyah Prank 30. (squarebill*, need a closeup to see molding lines) 31. Strike King Squarebill 1.5 32. (need a better pic) 33. (need a better pic) 34. 6th Sense Movement 80X or a knockoff 35. (squarebill*, need a closeup to see molding lines) 36. (squarebill*, need a closeup to see molding lines) 37. (squarebill*, need a closeup to see molding lines) 38. Bass Pro Shops XPS popper (no red gill line), discontinued model, new one is different 39. Yozuri Pop’n Splash, Arms Series (Duel) 40. could be Yozuri Surface Cruiser or Tsunami Talkin pencil popper. These lures used to come in smaller sizes. Length would help here. (need a better pic too) 41. Bomber Square A 42. Looks like fairly generic lipless crank. Could be hard to identify. A closeup might help. 43. (minnow crankbait**) 44. (minnow crankbait**) 45. (minnow crankbait**) 46. (minnow crankbait**) 47. Rapala X-Rap 48. Rapala X-Rap 49. Rapala X-Rap 50. (minnow crankbait**) 51. (minnow crankbait**) *Squarebills – There are so many brands and knockoffs out there. A lot of these are sold at fishing expos by various vendors. They run the range in quality from junk to good quality with nice paint schemes. They may be hard to identify. The ones where the front gill plate line looks like a curved 'Y' and there is a shorter second gill plate line are knocks offs of the Lucky Craft. The pics have to be clear and show all lines on the gill plate, the scale cross hatching and the eye pupil to have a chance. **Minnow crankbaits – These look like store type brands such as Bass Pro XTS, Ozark Trail, Walmart Pradco assorted bin lures, Chinese lures from Amazon/Ali. These may also be hard to identify. Jim
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