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JD_mudbug last won the day on May 12

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  1. Hi, Bruce County. I would also like to get one of the lures. I have sent you a PM with my address and some additional info. I agree with Dave's thoughts on a brand of lures. I know a company that make lures primarily for bass. They made an up-sized version of some of their lures for larger species. The labor costs were the same. The materials costs of the upsized lures was slightly higher, but not as much as you think. The price they charge for the upsized version is over twice that of the bass size resulting a higher profit margin item. They get additional sales they otherwise wouldn't g
  2. Welcome to the site. I use poplar a lot and like it. I use the round and square poplar dowels from the big box stores. The dowels are cheap, easy to carve, and kiln dried so you don't get too much expansion and contraction. My favorite wood to use is western red cedar. It is a bit harder to carve than poplar due the grain. The smell makes it great to work with. I use it mostly on bigger baits, 5" and up and 1+ ounces. It has nice combination of strength and action. As you will be harvesting the wood from your property, I would search Youtube for ways to dry your wood. Maybe you
  3. It looks like a Yum Mighty Bug which was discontinued a few years ago. I sometimes see them in the discount soft plastic boxes on the low shelf at Wal-mart. If you can't find any, how about a 3" Culprit Flutter Craw, Big Bite Baits Yo Daddy Craw, 13 Fishing Ninja Craw or SK Baby Rage bug as possible alternatives?
  4. I have bought some from Cedar Run, wLure, Dinger, Predator, and Backwater Outfitting. The suppliers’ sites are listed in the pinned post at the top of the Hard Baits forum. I have also bought from random sellers on eBay for the ones I couldn’t find on the sites. Most of the suppliers have a couple of models of glide and/or swimbaits. No one seems to have a big variety in that category. The models they do have may be there one month and gone the next. Quality varies from batch to batch. Most are good. Make sure you clear any plastic flashing from the joints before painting. Some
  5. Unfortunately, no. Dave spoke to him in November 2020. My lure making is all over the map much like Dieter's is, from trout inline spinners all the way to hard musky baits. I miss his insights. He had quite a variety of builds. He has inspired me build lures I never thought of trying to build. I still comb through his old videos looking for ideas. For anyone interested, here is a link to his videos on Youtube. If the link doesn't work, his channel name is 61diemai https://www.youtube.com/user/61diemai/videos Btw, I like your Speed Trap builds. The Speed Trap works well in
  6. I try to avoid pouring lead because of the health risks. I use LPO unpainted frames when I am not getting them from a local company. The LPO frames are good quality. The one in that pic is an LPO frame painted with nail polish in blue glitter on top of silver glitter polish. I clear coat them with either epoxy thinned with denatured alcohol or a few coats of Sally Hansen Hard as Nails clear nail polish. For hard baits made out of wood or PVC, I use the Bullet Weight lead coils for ballast. I just drill the ballast hole to the diameter size of the coil. I don’t have any sonic blades big en
  7. JD_mudbug


    If LPO's doesn't answer and superglue won't work, I would give Mend-It or Huddlebond a try. TW carries Mend-It.
  8. You’re welcome. I don’t mind if info gets repeated. If someone is new to the site, it might be the first time they see it. Sometimes, I can’t find a post with either the search on the main screen or the one under the ‘Activity’ tab. The people on this site have been great in helping find the info. As I read more and more of the posts going back years, I frequently can guess who made the post I am looking for and can find it under their user name. Some of the posters are incredibly knowledgeable on certain lure making topics. Before I found about this site, the only way I learned was thr
  9. Welcome to the site. I makes spinners with a total weight from 1/4 oz trout spinners to 3 oz bucktails (14g to 85g). I mostly use French blades. They are easy to get to spin. I prefer the stirrup clevis. I can't help much on those small spinners. The Roostertail blade is called a 'swing' blade. Worth makes them if you are looking for bulk. Barlows carries them in smaller quantities. You should be able to find them in a variety of finishes (painted, hammered, rippled, scaled, smooth) on eBay and elsewhere if you search for swing blades or swiss swing blades. https://barlows
  10. LPO has solid beads down to 3/32" in brass, nickel, and black nickel. Jann's has them down to 1/8". The hole on the smaller beads are .039 which works well on the small spinners. Spinners with size 4-6 blades and .040 shaft wire, I use the 1/8" bead. Some of the beads in a given pack will have a slightly larger or smaller hole. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Solid-Brass-Beads?quantity=1&custcol_beads_eyes_paint_size=40&custcol_beads_eyes_paint_color=14 I sometimes use hollow metal beads as bearing beads. Although hollow beads wear out eventually, I find that the wire shaft
  11. If you keep having line twist problems, you can try a line tie loop like a Shyster. This gives a keel type effect to a standard type body. You could also try a Super Rooster tail type setup which is more like a cross between a spinnerbait and in-line. These can made in small sizes and eliminate most line twist. After years of mainly targeting largemouth and smallmouth, I got more into fishing for other species. The last 5 years, I got more into spinners. In the spring, I target rainbows, browns, landlocked salmon, and stocked tiger trout with smaller spinners. I frequently catch bass doin
  12. You can have a range of overall weight to blade spinners and still have the spinner perform. The weight range will give you the ability to have spinners that run higher or lower in the water column. I have some size 4 blade spinners with 1/4 to 3/4 oz weights. I sometimes troll spinners and spinnerbaits. I use the different body weights and blade sizes to get the bait to the depth I want. Generally, it looks like I use size 6 trebles on size 2 blade spinner. On size 3 and 4 blade spinners, I use a 4 treble. On a few size 3 blade spinners, I have a size 6 treble (mostly for trout). On some
  13. https://cart.saltwaterplugs.com/tail-weights.html Maybe you could use these tail weights with the cup washer. You could trim the weights to fit your lures. Maybe you can find a tail weight mold or someone who has one? I don't know if anyone on here has the mold that could make you some. I could not find the mold for sale anywhere. Maybe you could use a bullet nose or worm nose type mold instead with a piece of shaft wire to preserve the shaft hole. https://barlowstackle.com/Do-It-Bullet-Nose-Jig-Molds-P228/ https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Worm-Nose-Sinker-WNS-6-A
  14. I have not seen a solid half sphere. Maybe the one in the bait above is a cup washer with a piece of lead inside. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Cup-Washers_2?quantity=1&custcol13=157 You could make a wood mold with a pin in it to pour the lead. You could also just fill the cup washer with lead or tungsten putty or even JB weld which is pretty heavy. You may have to open up a bait to see what is on inside. I have some baits with ends finished with cup washers. The body ends are rounded to fit the cup. They just put epoxy in the cup to bond it and the end wrap smu
  15. I agree with Azsouth in looking at the total weight of the spinner compared to the blade size. I have a couple of size 4 and 5 French blade spinners with bodies that weigh over an ounce for fishing deeper water in reservoirs. These spinners would be useless in a stream and most rivers. I prefer the standard thickness blades. I want the blades spin as easily as possible. I find the thick blades can be tough to get start spinning. The thick ones can spin lazily and look unnatural. I use the LPO regal finish blades and painted blades. I mostly use French blades as they seem to spin the easie
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