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Everything posted by JD_mudbug

  1. Hi, Bruce County. I would also like to get one of the lures. I have sent you a PM with my address and some additional info. I agree with Dave's thoughts on a brand of lures. I know a company that make lures primarily for bass. They made an up-sized version of some of their lures for larger species. The labor costs were the same. The materials costs of the upsized lures was slightly higher, but not as much as you think. The price they charge for the upsized version is over twice that of the bass size resulting a higher profit margin item. They get additional sales they otherwise wouldn't g
  2. Welcome to the site. I use poplar a lot and like it. I use the round and square poplar dowels from the big box stores. The dowels are cheap, easy to carve, and kiln dried so you don't get too much expansion and contraction. My favorite wood to use is western red cedar. It is a bit harder to carve than poplar due the grain. The smell makes it great to work with. I use it mostly on bigger baits, 5" and up and 1+ ounces. It has nice combination of strength and action. As you will be harvesting the wood from your property, I would search Youtube for ways to dry your wood. Maybe you
  3. It looks like a Yum Mighty Bug which was discontinued a few years ago. I sometimes see them in the discount soft plastic boxes on the low shelf at Wal-mart. If you can't find any, how about a 3" Culprit Flutter Craw, Big Bite Baits Yo Daddy Craw, 13 Fishing Ninja Craw or SK Baby Rage bug as possible alternatives?
  4. I have bought some from Cedar Run, wLure, Dinger, Predator, and Backwater Outfitting. The suppliers’ sites are listed in the pinned post at the top of the Hard Baits forum. I have also bought from random sellers on eBay for the ones I couldn’t find on the sites. Most of the suppliers have a couple of models of glide and/or swimbaits. No one seems to have a big variety in that category. The models they do have may be there one month and gone the next. Quality varies from batch to batch. Most are good. Make sure you clear any plastic flashing from the joints before painting. Some
  5. Unfortunately, no. Dave spoke to him in November 2020. My lure making is all over the map much like Dieter's is, from trout inline spinners all the way to hard musky baits. I miss his insights. He had quite a variety of builds. He has inspired me build lures I never thought of trying to build. I still comb through his old videos looking for ideas. For anyone interested, here is a link to his videos on Youtube. If the link doesn't work, his channel name is 61diemai https://www.youtube.com/user/61diemai/videos Btw, I like your Speed Trap builds. The Speed Trap works well in
  6. I try to avoid pouring lead because of the health risks. I use LPO unpainted frames when I am not getting them from a local company. The LPO frames are good quality. The one in that pic is an LPO frame painted with nail polish in blue glitter on top of silver glitter polish. I clear coat them with either epoxy thinned with denatured alcohol or a few coats of Sally Hansen Hard as Nails clear nail polish. For hard baits made out of wood or PVC, I use the Bullet Weight lead coils for ballast. I just drill the ballast hole to the diameter size of the coil. I don’t have any sonic blades big en
  7. JD_mudbug


    If LPO's doesn't answer and superglue won't work, I would give Mend-It or Huddlebond a try. TW carries Mend-It.
  8. You’re welcome. I don’t mind if info gets repeated. If someone is new to the site, it might be the first time they see it. Sometimes, I can’t find a post with either the search on the main screen or the one under the ‘Activity’ tab. The people on this site have been great in helping find the info. As I read more and more of the posts going back years, I frequently can guess who made the post I am looking for and can find it under their user name. Some of the posters are incredibly knowledgeable on certain lure making topics. Before I found about this site, the only way I learned was thr
  9. Welcome to the site. I makes spinners with a total weight from 1/4 oz trout spinners to 3 oz bucktails (14g to 85g). I mostly use French blades. They are easy to get to spin. I prefer the stirrup clevis. I can't help much on those small spinners. The Roostertail blade is called a 'swing' blade. Worth makes them if you are looking for bulk. Barlows carries them in smaller quantities. You should be able to find them in a variety of finishes (painted, hammered, rippled, scaled, smooth) on eBay and elsewhere if you search for swing blades or swiss swing blades. https://barlows
  10. LPO has solid beads down to 3/32" in brass, nickel, and black nickel. Jann's has them down to 1/8". The hole on the smaller beads are .039 which works well on the small spinners. Spinners with size 4-6 blades and .040 shaft wire, I use the 1/8" bead. Some of the beads in a given pack will have a slightly larger or smaller hole. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Solid-Brass-Beads?quantity=1&custcol_beads_eyes_paint_size=40&custcol_beads_eyes_paint_color=14 I sometimes use hollow metal beads as bearing beads. Although hollow beads wear out eventually, I find that the wire shaft
  11. If you keep having line twist problems, you can try a line tie loop like a Shyster. This gives a keel type effect to a standard type body. You could also try a Super Rooster tail type setup which is more like a cross between a spinnerbait and in-line. These can made in small sizes and eliminate most line twist. After years of mainly targeting largemouth and smallmouth, I got more into fishing for other species. The last 5 years, I got more into spinners. In the spring, I target rainbows, browns, landlocked salmon, and stocked tiger trout with smaller spinners. I frequently catch bass doin
  12. You can have a range of overall weight to blade spinners and still have the spinner perform. The weight range will give you the ability to have spinners that run higher or lower in the water column. I have some size 4 blade spinners with 1/4 to 3/4 oz weights. I sometimes troll spinners and spinnerbaits. I use the different body weights and blade sizes to get the bait to the depth I want. Generally, it looks like I use size 6 trebles on size 2 blade spinner. On size 3 and 4 blade spinners, I use a 4 treble. On a few size 3 blade spinners, I have a size 6 treble (mostly for trout). On some
  13. https://cart.saltwaterplugs.com/tail-weights.html Maybe you could use these tail weights with the cup washer. You could trim the weights to fit your lures. Maybe you can find a tail weight mold or someone who has one? I don't know if anyone on here has the mold that could make you some. I could not find the mold for sale anywhere. Maybe you could use a bullet nose or worm nose type mold instead with a piece of shaft wire to preserve the shaft hole. https://barlowstackle.com/Do-It-Bullet-Nose-Jig-Molds-P228/ https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Worm-Nose-Sinker-WNS-6-A
  14. I have not seen a solid half sphere. Maybe the one in the bait above is a cup washer with a piece of lead inside. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Cup-Washers_2?quantity=1&custcol13=157 You could make a wood mold with a pin in it to pour the lead. You could also just fill the cup washer with lead or tungsten putty or even JB weld which is pretty heavy. You may have to open up a bait to see what is on inside. I have some baits with ends finished with cup washers. The body ends are rounded to fit the cup. They just put epoxy in the cup to bond it and the end wrap smu
  15. I agree with Azsouth in looking at the total weight of the spinner compared to the blade size. I have a couple of size 4 and 5 French blade spinners with bodies that weigh over an ounce for fishing deeper water in reservoirs. These spinners would be useless in a stream and most rivers. I prefer the standard thickness blades. I want the blades spin as easily as possible. I find the thick blades can be tough to get start spinning. The thick ones can spin lazily and look unnatural. I use the LPO regal finish blades and painted blades. I mostly use French blades as they seem to spin the easie
  16. They are called solid beads. The Musky Shop carries them in brass and nickel plated brass. The largest size they carry is 3/8" diameter and have a .063" hole. https://www.muskyshop.com/products/components-lure-building-solid-brass-beads-per-10-pack?_pos=3&_sid=164c41d09&_ss=r You might be able to find some in stainless by looking for stainless steel beads for jewelry making. https://www.etsy.com/listing/659584710/stainless-steel-polished-beads-round?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=solid+stainless+steel+beads&
  17. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aUd5zpGwA5Y The loudest rattling bait I have made was based on the above video. Drill a small pilot hole through the body being careful to avoid internal hardware. Then, I used a forstner bit on each side to drill out a disc on each side just a hair deeper than a dime. I think it was a ¾” bit, maybe 5/8”. A dime should sit being just a hair under flush. Once the disc holes are drilled, use a ½” (or 3/8”) bit to widen the pilot hole going through the bait. Seal the hole with superglue. Put one dime in place and glue/epoxy it in. Once dry, place that d
  18. I like the idea of the Rapala. How about a jointed Rapala. Back in the day when I fished from a rowboat, I would drag a J11 jointed Rapala behind the boat when I was rowing from spot to spot. It's nice if you are on a new body of water you want to explore and keep a lure in the water. It caught lots of fish and I didn't have to worry about getting snagged. You can wake the J11 Rapala if you hold your rod tip up and slow the retrieve a bit. You can hit the same depths as a squarebill with the rod down. You can also deadstick twitch it on the surface. It find it versatile and productive. You ma
  19. I use .032 on 1/4 oz and some 3/8 oz compact frame spinnerbaits for bass. .035" wire on large frame 3/8 oz baits and most 1/2 oz spinnerbaits. .040" wire on 3/4 oz spinnerbaits and some 1/2 oz for targeting pike. .051" on 1 oz and heavier spinnerbaits. I only have a couple of .062 wire spinnerbaits for pike/musky because that wire is such a pain to bend. The longer the wire and/or the heavier the head, I lean to the thicker wire. The more compact the frame and lighter the head, I lean to the thinner wire. On a straight in-line spinner, you could get away with
  20. There is a Roumba Wake and a Roumba crank. Both have similar bodies. The Roumba wake dives 0-1'. The Roumba crank goes 1-3'. The bait in your pic looks like a knockoff of the Roumba, not the actual Roumba. The knockoff runs deeper than both of the actual Roumbas. I have the knockoff which does run 3-4'. The knockoff is my bottom pic, sexy chrome color. The lip of the knockoff is steeper than the lip of the actual Roumbas which is why the knockoff dives deeper. The Roumba lip points down more whereas the knockoff lip is angled more towards the line tie. There is probably some va
  21. It looks like a knockoff copy of an Ima Roumba. The lip is different from the Roumba and Ima prints a logo or Roumba on the back of the bait. Here is a link to the unpainted blank. It is out of stock. https://www.wlure.com/collections/blank-crankbait/products/fishing-lures-blank-crankbaits-upc677-br-2-inch-1-4-oz?variant=21056627277942 I have one of the painted knockoffs. Wlure no longer has the painted ones on their site. Here is one link for the painted knockoffs. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32950024121.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.19
  22. The only thing I can think off is with the traditional buzzbait (top lure) the frog will sit a bit lower in the water than the inline. This may get a few more strikes from fish hesitant to break the surface. Some people say inline buzzbaits get on plane faster but I haven't notice a difference with a frog on it. In pike and musky country, the inline is easier to fish with a leader. You will have to put surgical tubing over the R bend on a traditional bait or the leader snap could slide up or down the arm. I don't like to change blades on a traditional buzzbait. Before I put the rivet on,
  23. Before you cut that wood master, you could mold it to make multiple masters. That way you can experiment on where to make the cut for the molding of the two halves. The original sketch looks like 60% resin front half and 40% paddle tail. The longer the paddle tail section the more it can flex and kick. If you mold 3 masters from the one uncut master, you could try a 50/50 or 40/60 ratio of front-to-back sections in addition to 60/40 sketch.
  24. Like Hillbilly, I start with a drill bit to get a rough cone shape hole in the middle. Followed by ball and bullet shaped burrs and stones to get the cup close to shape. I get the final shape with a ball nose sanding cap. The caps come in different grits and sizes. The mandrels for the caps come in different sizes to match the various caps. I got some in an off-brand dremel-like accessory kit from a local discount tool store. You can find the caps and mandrels on Amazon and various websites. https://mdiwoodcarvers.com/t/ball-nose-sanding-caps-and-mandrels?page=1
  25. Once you have the head carved, how about using some of the paddle tails already on the market and cutting shaving them to fit with an Xacto knife. If your like me, you probably already own a bunch. This might get you in the ballpark without much effort and cut down on the amount of work. Lots of them available for $5 and under a pack. It would only waste one bait out of a pack. Even if a particular bait doesn't work with your head, you can just fish the pack normally. Once you find a paddletail that gives you the action you want, you can make mold that combines the tail dimensions of the exis
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