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JD_mudbug

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Everything posted by JD_mudbug

  1. Boss makes plastic skirt hubs and lead skirt hubs. I have used the plastic hubs on wire. The plastic hubs are very durable . Maybe one of those products would work. https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/BOSS_Punch_Hub_5pk/descpage-BOSSPCH.html https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/BOSS_Lead_Punch_Hub_10pk_/descpage-BOSSLDHUB.html At one point, I believe Boss also made the hubs in aluminum. You could try contacting Boss directly if you want a bulk order or to see if they still make the aluminum ones. https://www.fishboss.com/products/ Boss also makes a skirt flare band. I thin
  2. I use SS shaft wire or a cut section of a SS steel nail for pins. I will use regular steel nails if I don't have the other two for freshwater. I keep the pin in by trying to not drill all the way through the bottom of the bait. The top hole and the bottom hole, if I drill through, get plugged with a tooth pick or small dowel and super glue. The bottom hole gets plugged first if I happen to drill through the bottom if the bait. Cut the point of a round toothpick off so it just barely won't go in the hole. Put the glue on the toothpick and use slight force to jam it in. You don't need
  3. I can only toss in one cent. I have deutan color blindness. I have no choice really but to choose function over color. I look at function first as in ‘I need a crankbait to fish 3-6 feet deep and bang off objects. I need a squarebill or another bait that can deflect’. For a mass produced bait, I first look to a brand that I know makes a good bait for the function I am looking for. Then, I look for color. If I there is a brand I have not used before for that function, I will be more likely to buy their bait if the paint scheme looks better or comes in a color the known brand does not ha
  4. I will give an explanation a shot. It takes a lot of little steps that make it look more daunting than it is. With practice, it becomes fairly easy. The nice thing is there are opportunities to correct screw ups while in progress. Caution – long post ahead. Coming out of the back a body section you need a loop or 2 which can be eye screws, twisted wire screw eyes, and even wire through. The 9” bait pictured has two .092 LPO screw eyes coming out of the back of the front and middle sections. Through wire can be done but requires more work if there will be more than one screw eye in the hi
  5. JD_mudbug

    Newbie

    Thanks for posting the pics. I believe that crankbait blank is a knockoff of the River2Sea Snub 50 Crank. I have a couple and they came with two number 8 hooks. The size 8 hooks it came with touch each other but not enough so they hook each other. The body is very stubby with a big hump back. The pics don't do the stubbiness justice. It has a lot of bulk for such a short lure. The body itself without the lip is only around 1-7/8" or 50 mm long. The hook hangers are really close to each other being only 1-7/16" or 36 mm apart center to center. If I was fishing it in water with bas
  6. +1 for #1. The other two baits are more of a traditional shape. I have made a few multi-section baits in the shape of a chain pickerel. The nose/forehead of those baits reminds me of your bait #1. My pickerel baits all ended up diving deeper than expected.
  7. JD_mudbug

    Newbie

    Can you post a pic or a link to the blanks you bought? It would be hard to make a guess without seeing the shape of the blank. A fat bulbous blank may require a bigger hook possibly an upsized hook in a short shank version. Something bulbous like a wiggle wart usually takes a 6 or 4 treble. Something slender like a 2.75" Pin's minnow takes a size 10. The 2" Pin's minnow takes a size 12.
  8. I have used spinnerbaits in saltwater for stripers and blues. I find looped wire spinnerbait frames are best suited for stripers and blues. They can mangle the R bend ones easily. If I am using an R bend in saltwater, I will put a small piece of surgical tubing over the R bend so I can use a leader without the snap sliding down the wire when a fish hits. On some, I have tied bucktail instead of using the typical skirt and used a grub for a trailer. On others, I use skirts made of magnum size skirt tabs. Another way to use them is to not use a skirt/bucktail and just put a soft plastic ba
  9. A couple of weeks ago at the MLF Toyota tournament on Sam Rayburn, Derek Mundy used an 8xd for a 39 lb 7 oz bag with a 13 lb 10 oz kicker on day 2. He had another fish over 10 lb on day 3. He won the tournament by 14 pounds. Second place guy used a 6xd and an 8xd for his big fish. Most of the big fish were caught with cranks. https://majorleaguefishing.com/series/top-10-baits-from-sam-rayburn/
  10. I don't know of a source. Here are a couple of other pics. The wire is like a horseshoe with the legs pinched together a bit and bent over.
  11. Crankbaits still dominate some tournaments. There are so many different types of baits out there and many different styles of fishing. I don’t see any bait consistently dominate today. Ott Defoe won the 2019 Classic mostly throwing a DT4 and Storm Arashi lipless crank. He also threw a chatterbait on the last day. A lot of the anglers threw cranks that tournament. Jacob Wheeler came in second mostly throwing a DT6 and the Storm Arashi lipless. I think fish can be conditioned to a lure in the short term. Long term, I don’t know if they have the brain power to remember they got caught on a
  12. How about a jointed multi-section bait?
  13. Travis is probably right. Impossible to be sure without a pic. The Jenko Trapline Rip-Knocker does come in some Mystery Tackle Boxes. At 3:10, the video shows you how to rig it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=VLgSdaZjTDs Unlikely, but maybe it could be a keychain or Christmas ornament. Those usually have a round metal knob on on end for the key ring or wire to attach to the tree. Mine has no line tie or belly hook hangers. Even more unlikely, it could be a salesperson's sample to show color patterns that got in the box by mistake. Companies used to
  14. JD_mudbug

    Wobble

    Take a look at this post by Dave aka Vodkaman http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/35283-how-do-lipsbills-work/?tab=comments#comment-290212
  15. ddl, I do not use epoxy as a sealer but I have seen posts where people use up to 50% denatured alcohol. 1 part resin, 1 part hardener, 1 part DN. Mix the hardener and resin first. Then mix in the DN. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/32034-thinning-enviro-tech/?tab=comments#comment-261587
  16. In the past, I have used spar urethane cut with 20-25% mineral spirits to help it penetrate a bit better and get into through-wire shaft holes. I saw that formula in an old saltwater/striper magazine. I dunk the bait for a couple of minutes with an occasional stir of the bait, lightly brush off the excess with a cheap brush to prevent pooling on the end, and hang to dry overnight. I use a tennis ball tube container to dunk big baits. I stopped using spar because of the dry time and residual smell. Back in the day, a lot of people used spar urethane as part of the ‘Old Timers formula’ for
  17. I agree with the 3 posts above. I think the taper looks better. I also like the taper because it gives the tail hook a lot more clearance for hookups.
  18. I have used JB weld on a couple of pvc baits. The baits are 2 halves with a straight wire through with a drop wire for the belly hook. One is a 4" long wake bait that is 1.375" wide by 1.375" tall at its bulkiest spot. It is in great shape after 3 years use and has taken several northern pike. I used the original or the marine version JB weld. It says 5020 psi on the package. It floats low in the water and did not require any ballast weight because of the JB weld. If you want one thicker pvc piece check the molding section of the stores. Some of the molding pieces are thicker than boards
  19. Looks goods. Wire-through is definitely worth a good upcharge. If you hold one end of the wood drink stirrer down with an index finger, a few wipes down one of the faces with a piece of sandpaper will make them fit into a 1/16th slot. It takes only a few seconds. I have used them on a few baits to fill belly slots. I also use them on lip slots in test baits to try thinner lip material.
  20. Maybe something thinner than popsicle sticks would work, like wooden beverage stirrers? https://www.amazon.com/Royal-Count-Coffee-Beverage-Stirrers/dp/B001FVPAOE?th=1
  21. For a soft plastic bait, they probably want 200 of the exact same bait to carry them through a tournament season. For a particular hard bait, some people want enough to carry them through a lifetime. It’s about confidence. As jigmeister posted, an angler doesn’t want to worry about the bait being different or not available. The bait maker could quit the business to take up sasquatch hunting. The company that supplies the components may change their products like changing the shade of the color or changing the size of the flake by an angstrom. The bait maker could discontinue the color o
  22. I sort of figured that was what you were thinking, but wasn't sure, lol. I thought there might be a very slim chance you had a weird way to build spinnerbaits and was curious as to how it could be done without at least one bead behind the clevis to prevent the spacer sleeve from wearing through the end of the clevis. I never thought of beads as spacers until I started targeting pike. On pike/musky spinnerbaits, alot of companies do not use spacer sleeves or tubing. They just use a whole bunch of beads as spacers. I don't really like the look of 6 beads in a row. Maybe it's marketing to ma
  23. On the blade arm of the spinnerbait wire, I usually put a bead before and after the clevis to give the clevis a bearing to spin on.The front bead helps the clevis to keep spinning if the bait goes through lake snot. I also usually put a bead after the spacer sleeves and before the loop the swivel goes on. I just do this in case I am not perfect in bending my loop. The last bead prevents the spacer sleeve from potentially sliding into the loop. Pic - I spaced out the components to make them easier to see. Order put on the arm: bead, clevis with front blade, bead, spacer sleeve(s), bead, e
  24. I use 1/8" and 4mm beads on small to average size spinnerbaits with .040" wire or thinner. I prefer 1/8" beads on small spinnerbaits (1/4 oz) as they are a bit smaller than 4mm. I use the 4 mm on typical 1/2 oz and 3/4 oz spinnerbaits. For 3/8 oz spinnerbaits, I use 1/8" beads if I have them otherwise I just go with 4mm. You have to check the hole size in the bead and make sure the spinnerbait wire will go though it. The hole size can vary depending on seller. The hole size on the 4 mm beads I bought is 1.2mm or .047". You will need bigger beads for heavy spinnerbaits with .051" wire an
  25. JD_mudbug

    Hook ID

    Several companies make a hook very similar to those hooks. You may have to do a direct comparison to a package for a perfect match. The first hook could be a Gami Nautilus Circle 42411. Maybe an Owner 5114 circle hook, Eagle L2045 Circle, or Mustad Demon Circle. The second hook could be a Gami Octopus Circle SE (Straight Eye) or Inline Octopus Circle. Maybe a Mustad Live Bait Hook or Eagle Claw Lazer Sharp Live Bait Hook or Light Wire Live Bait Hook in those brands. The third hook could be the Gami Shiner Hook SE 51410 if it's not the Eagle Claw Kalhe L141. The Gamie Shiner Ho
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