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Everything posted by JD_mudbug

  1. They are definitely ripe for competition. I am not saying the musky lures I see or buy are the best constructed lures. Many aspects of their builds could be improved. Alot of the baits I see were better constructed originally and then went cheap when more of a mass production model was adopted. They just have a good action that catches fish. All that means is the design of the lure is a solid concept for the style of fishing done with the lure and the construction is consistent so you get the same action in each bait. The screw eyes and lip are straight. Clear coat is even. The paint schemes
  2. Hopefully, this will make some of you feel better. The following is not legal advice or meant to be political in away. As for the FET- It sucks that others cheat the system. Cheating the tax man drives up the rates for everyone else no matter what tax you’re talking about. The tax enforcement right now is lax so more people tend to cheat. Enforcement levels come and go in cycles. Proving a tax case can be rather easy (see Al Capone). If you get caught once, you can be doomed. Generally, there is no statute of limitations if no return is filed or if intent to defraud is established. S
  3. An interesting thought, but as I mentioned - the lures are otherwise identical, save for paint. Looking at it from the consumer side, I'm not sure I see how that would be differentiated. Do you happen to have an example of such a lure? I have purchased an excessive amount of lures through the years. At one point, I had over 10k lures organized in boxes and inventoried on spreadsheets. So hopefully, I can provide a viewpoint as a consumer I have seen paint price ‘differentials’ numerous times on custom baits as wells some mass produced baits. It doesn’t bother me. Lucky Craft
  4. Dave, in an alternate reality, I see you working with the Tall Man from Phantasm. 'I think those spheres could be improved a bit'.
  5. I understood it with the hand in the water example. It's definitely counter intuitive.
  6. I am not a physicist either. I saw Dave’s video. His videos are always worth watching. I think it is about both turbulence/vortex shedding and cutting through the water. It just seems that both factors come into play. No doubt the thin edge helps the water recombine or smooth out. I guess cutting the water is better called inertia. The initial force required to get a thicker edge to move or cut through the water is greater. The thinner edge will start easier. The same happens on the opposite edge of the when the lip starts the other way on its return. The lip has to start moving before it ca
  7. The theory just makes sense that with 2 identical items, except for thickness, the thinner item would pass through any medium more easily. I certainly don't know if chamfering is effective on a lure or when incremental lip thickness would reduce action. I don't see how it can hurt to have the edges chamfered. I figure I might as well do it before I install the lip when it is easy to do. My baits tend to be between 5" and 12". A lot of my baits use 1/8" (.125") or 3.175 mm polycarbonate. The lips are typically 1" long by 1" wide and larger. Chamfering could just be a confidence thing
  8. That's a great point on chamfering the lip edges. I don't have confidence in Lexan thinner than .093" lasting long on musky/pike lures. I usually chamfer the edges of .093" Lexan and thicker just in case the thickness could reduce action. I don't get the edge to quite a sharp edge though. I reduce the edge thickness by using a file on an angle at the edges on both faces (except the edge that goes in the lip slot). Then, I use very fine grit sandpaper to smooth any roughness. I leave a thin flat section maybe a 1/3 of the lip's original side that angles out on both sides to the faces. After you
  9. Congrats on getting the belt sander. I would go with .093 on a 5.5" lure unless it is going to be over 2 oz. or have a long lip. From the other post: Generally, I go with .093" Lexan for small lures 4" to 6.5" usually under 1.5 ounces. I go with 1/8" (.125") Lexan for bigger lures 6.5" to 11" that range from 1.5 to 3.5 ounces. For lures bigger or heavier than those, I go with 3/16" Lexan. Lures near the gray areas in between those ranges may get a thicker or thinner lip depending on the way the lure will be fished and the size of the lip. If the lip is going to be a long lip, I us
  10. Etex seems to be one of the more sensitive epoxies. I don't have the best luck with it. Don't forget to check for high humidity as well as temp. High humidity can affect the curing of some epoxies. Etex cures best at below 50% humidity. I was surprised at how much humidity there was in my basement during winter. When using Etex, I run a dehumidifier. https://www.eti-usa.com/sites/eti-usa.com/files/bulletins/Envirotex-Lite-Professional-Tip-Sheet2.pdf Lately, I have started using D2T more just to carry me through until I stop procrastinating and build a UV setup. D2T seems to be more
  11. You might be able to find a black metallic power paint that matches the black nickel blades. I know it is available. I just don't know if you can get a small container to test for matching. It is usually sold in large containers for car parts. I use metallic black nail polish or just a regular black with a glossy clear like epoxy on my bodies. I only have to make a few so that doesn’t help you. Paint will hold up much better on the body than it will on the blade. Paint on a blade will end up wearing down eventually. There is just so much rotation and a thin edge that the paint wears off t
  12. I have painted spinnerbait blades, Colorado sz 3-6, willow and Indiana sz 4-7. They worked fine but I did keep the paint thin and those are bigger blades. Some have a thin coat of spray clear on top of the paint and they still spin fine. A size 1 blade is fairly small. If the paint goes on too thick, it may be hard to get the blade spinning. Have you taken a look at the painted French blades or the black nickel French blades sold by the usual suppliers? Just buying the blades may be cheaper than buying the spray gun and paint, plus it saves the labor. I like the black nickel Fr
  13. You’re welcome. I have seen a few posts lately from people new to lure making. It’s nice to see. A couple of decades ago when I really started trying to make lures, I was usually disappointed my lures did not look like the masterpieces you see on this site or the hand-made lures I would see at fishing expos. I found painting in particular to be frustrating to do well. My painting skills have improved over time. I am even proud of some of my paint jobs now. They still don’t look like masterpieces. But, they catch fish. I just want some of the new people to know your lure doesn’t hav
  14. I have only used the skirt hubs a few times. I got the skirt on the hub using 3-pronged skirt making pliers.They may have been called skirt expander pliers. The company that made them was called Skirt Master. I tried finding a link and could not. They may have gone out of business. That would be a shame. I like that tool. Give Jann's and Barlow's a look. They sell skirt making pliers. Barlow's is out of stock at the moment. Not the same as the 3-pronged pliers, but they should be able to do the job. https://www.jannsnetcraft.com/skirts-material/088456030048.aspx You may want to
  15. This is a tale of multiple ‘happy accidents’ making a memorable lure. I have a bond with this lure that is tempting me to not retire it, even though it belongs on the wall now. My favorite lure is one I call Dicky Moe after the whale in a Tom & Jerry cartoon. The cartoon whale was the first thing I thought of when the lure was finished. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bttiQVVweJE It is all white, 9.75” long, and weighs 3.1 oz. without the hooks. The bait came out longer than expected because I forgot to take into account the joint gaps would add close to an inch of length
  16. I use mostly Lexan (polycarbonate). I know Lexan is just a brand name. It is easier to type and is shorter than Makrolon. In addition to the fish species, I also look at the size of the bait. If I make a 10" 3 oz slammer type bait for bass, I am still going to use a thicker 1/8" lip. That size bait will crack a thin lip when it hits the water on the cast. Generally, I go with .093" Lexan for small lures 4" to 6.5" usually under 1.5 ounces. I go with 1/8" (.125") Lexan for bigger lures 6.5" to 11" that range from 1.5 to 3.5 ounces. For lures bigger or heavier than those, I go with 3/16" Le
  17. If you don't have money for a band saw, you can make the rough wood cuts with handsaws and the jigsaw to get the shape close enough to finish with the belt sander. I use the end of the sander belt for curves. There are lots of different handsaws for $8-15. You probably already have some. I started off with 2 like the ones below and still use them. https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-flush-cut-saw-62118.html https://www.homedepot.com/p/Stanley-14-5-in-Deluxe-Clamping-Miter-Box-with-14-in-Saw-20-600D/100034395 If you are comfortable with the Dremel for lips, keep using it. Just st
  18. Welcome aboard. 1. Dave is right. A band saw and belt sander make Lexan lips a lot easier to make. I use a bench top belt sander that also has the side sanding wheel with a shelf. If you can’t tool up, I would take a look at pre-made lips that are sold by numerous suppliers. Pre-made lips come in a lot of sizes. You can file/sand them down to change the shape a bit if you can’t find the exact dimensions you are looking for. This way you can focus on your designs and get to making lips when you can get the tools. I have cut Lexan with shears but it usually messes up 1/8” (or more) around
  19. Another thumps for Mark's idea. Mark, I know you posted this tip a while ago. It has made my lure making easier. You can get a near perfect cylinder that fits the ballast hole tightly. It will reduce the margin of error in Travis' formula caused by irregular ballast weights made with wood molds or ballast poured in a drilled ballast hole. In a pinch, if Bass Pro is out of the coil lead, you can use the XPS finesse weights as a substitute . They do have a hole through the middle that can be filled with wire. The 1/2 oz finesse weights are 1-1/16" long and have a diameter of 5/16". The
  20. I bought some of their painted Colorado blades: chartreuse with white stripe, red with white stripe, chartreuse with red diamonds. The quality is decent, nothing spectacular, but good for the price. The chartreuse & white stripe and the red & white stripe Colorado blades were nickel on the backside. I had to give the back side a quick buff with a microfiber cloth to get them to shine. I use Nu Finish Scratch Doctor car polish for blade cleaning. After a quick buff, the nickel finish is pretty good. The chartreuse with diamonds blades had a back side that was painted chartreuse wit
  21. Welcome to the site. I mostly fish freshwater and mostly make hard baits. A few times a year, I fish saltwater from piers, jetties, or just off shore in MA, NH, and ME. I don’t have as much SW gear as FW so I bring several bags of FW plastics with me when fishing SW. I use smaller 4” and 5” grubs and shads for down-sized bucktail jigs. 10” and 12” (and bigger if you can find them) ribbontail worms work as an eel imitator. I have had luck with black and other dark colors. I have always thought a big white, pearl, or silver ribbontail or a laminate to resemble a sand eel would work
  22. I had a few Sugar Shads and never had much luck with them. I had more luck with the Cordell Super Spot in 1/2 oz and 3/4 oz. The bigger Cordell Hot Spot and King Spot with the one large knocker is great too.
  23. I get smooth wire tags end by over-wrapping a bit, pulling the tag end back around a bit to clip it as close as I can with side cutters (or a mini-bolt cutter for .051 wire), hitting the cut end with a file to clean off any burrs, and then squashing the tiny tag end down with needle nose pliers. The overwrapping gives it that pre-bend for the squash down.
  24. I have a couple of spinnerbaits with double french blades. I would rate the blades as a bit less likely to catch weeds than an Indiana. They doesn't slip through weeds like willows, but they are not as bad as a Colorado blades. A little wiggle of the rod tip coming through the grass usually allows it to come through without getting clogged up. On a spinnerbait, the French blades spin with a tighter axis than they do on an inline. That could be do to their being 2 of them in series. The smaller front french blade blocking water from the back blade. The head is a 3/4 oz hidden weight L
  25. It's a trade off between how easy it is the to get it to spin right away and thump. The quickest to start will be the French, then Indiana, olympic, then Hildebrant, last would be Royal. I seemed to have difficulty getting the royal to spin on an inline (great on a spinnerbait though). Unfortunately, the least thump follows the same order. If I had to pick just one for overall fishability, I would still take the French. If you cast right next to a target, the French will start immediately. Other blades may take up to a foot or two to get spinning and be out of the strike zone. If you thro
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