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Everything posted by JD_mudbug

  1. I personally don’t like the heavy .040 blades on inline spinners unless the lure is a big musky bucktail type lure (size 7 and up blades). The .040 blades are harder to get spinning at the start of a retrieve. The heavy blade is much easier to get spinning on a spinnerbait than an inline spinner. You need the extra thickness of a .040 blade for musky bucktails because they are far more likely to bend a .025 blade. The .025 blades are fine for bass inlines and easier to start on the retrieve. An inline will not get the same vibration as a spinnerbait. On a spinnerbait, a blade is at the
  2. You could also try double hooks on the belly like a Mustad 7982 or 7825. Owner and Gamakatsu make a double hook too. It seems like they would cause very little if any rash. I have seen them in sizes up to 5/0. I don't think heavy musky rings like Wolverines or Rasco XH or XXH would slide out. But if it looks like they might, you could use a piece of heat shrink tube on the shank. I have not tried them yet on hard baits.
  3. The Owner ST35 come in size 6 up to 2/0 at TW which fit a good range of baits. The ST35 in 2/0 are bit bit bigger than other 2/0 hooks I have. The 2/0 is really somewhere between a 2/0 and 3/0. I think the Decoy T-S21 come in sizes 8 to 1/0 but they can be hard to find. They used to make up to 3/0 but I haven't seen any 2/0 or 3/0 in a while. I knew someone who used to travel to Japan who was able to get them for me. Mustad short shank KVDs EWG come in sizes up to 3/0. The Mustad 3X Triple grip go up to 7/0. Proberos 35647 trebles come in 8 to 3/0 (and maybe larger sizes) but y
  4. Your welcome. Google the Aquasonic Chatterbox and Rogers Vib-R-Fin for a couple of other similar lures. You may want to make one with multiple line ties to offer different actions, one down low and one up high, like the Drifter Believer. I haven't made many lipless baits of the typical tight swimming vibrating kind. I have made some Bass Oreno and AC Plug type baits and changing where the line tie is on the sloped face changes the running depth and tightness of the wobble.
  5. Hook points will wear through D2T eventually. D2T is one of the hardest and thickest topcoats out there. The only real solution I have found is to minimize the hook points scraping against the the lure. I will sometimes use nail polish or thinned epoxy to fill in a hook rash groove. That only extends the longevity some. Best to do that before it gets through to the paint. I have been switching over to T-type trebles (Owner St-35, Decoy T trebles) for belly mounted hooks. Those type of hooks reduce hook rash. When you put the hook on, make sure the flat side is against the lure. You can be
  6. There are a bunch of different types of lipless crankbaits. A flatfish is just one type of many different types of lipless cranks. The one in your pic was a common style years ago similar to the Heddon Bayou Boogie, Pico Chico, Storm Whiz Bang, Buckeye Shad Lipless Crank. Poe's also made a lipless back in the day similar to your pic. Although some of the older style baits are still being sold, that older style seems to have fallen out of favor since the Rattle Trap type baits gained in popularity. Your pic does have the line tie lower than most of the older baits. The pictured lure'
  7. Another vote for strip the whole bait in that situation. The paint is lifting from your bait. It is better to strip it, allow some drying time, and restart. Paint lifting could be caused by several things: water got in the wood and it swelled, the seal coat wasn't dry or didn't off gas, something on the lure prevented the paint form bonding. Whatever the cause of the lifting, it won't get better by a touch up. I do a touch up where the paint and clear coat are bonded well but got chipped from say a rock impact, fish teeth, or a hook point. Once the chip occurs, I try not to use the lure a
  8. There is a pinned post with a long list of suppliers. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/34165-crankbait-blank-suppliers/ In no particular order, I have had the best luck with Predator, Dinger, Shelts, and LPO.
  9. I made the stencil box based on info in past posts on TU. Basically it's a wooden box. Mine is about a foot long on each side. The seams are sealed with duct tape/wood glue/silicone or whatever you have to prevent air leakage. The top has a bunch of small holes drilled through it around the center around a half inch apart. One side of the box has a hole cut out to fit a shop vac hose. You put a lure on the top over the holes, put a plastic sheet over the lure that a extends around the lure by a couple inches and heat the plastic sheet with heat gun. Make sure to remove any protective fil
  10. For some reason, I could not post to this thread until now. I was getting Error code: 1S160/2 I have had some failures that should make any lure maker feel better about themselves: 1. I made a one piece glide/jerk bait out of a piece of wood. It looked like oak. I only put in a couple of small ballast weights. I did not test it before finishing. The lure sinks faster than a piece of lead. I drilled most of the lead out, touched up the paint, and it still sinks fast. In an attempt to re-purpose it, I added a line tie a third of the way down the back to vertically jig it, like a bi
  11. My purpose in explaining 304 v 304L was merely to show the basic difference as it applies to lure building. I did not want to see a lure builder pay more or even the same for 304L, when its performance is a bit less than 304 in lure building. I was not trying to give a tutorial on welding let alone annealing a weld. Hence, 'the heating the crap out of it' non-technical term. I guess I should have put that in my post. My apologies. Dave, you are correct. Anyone doing welding should do their own research and not attempt to learn skills like that on a lure building forum. I didn't even hav
  12. The Malin stainless safety wire is 304 annealed. The link I gave above for Wire Specialties is also 304 annealed. Malin color codes their canisters for different safety/locking wire types. Blue is 304 annealed stainless. I believe other major manufacturers have followed Malin's lead in color coding. Always check the company's website for specs to be sure, but blue canister safety/locking wire is most likely going to be 304 annealed from a major wire manufacturer. 304L (L= extra low carbon) is a bit weaker than 304, roughly 5% weaker in tensile strength. Both will work for lures. All thin
  13. If you are going to make a lure like a bucktail, whopper plopper, tallywhacker, globe, anything that will have a spinning/rotating part, use shaft wire as it is straight right out of the pack. It's hard stainless so it will resist bending and keep the parts rotating better. Shaft wire is also good if you are going to straight wire through a bait from line tie to tail loop with dropper wires or swivels for the belly hook hangers. Mark provided the link above. If you are looking to bend wire to make a non-straight internal wire harness or if you are looking to make twist wire eye screws, us
  14. I always prefer 2 hooks. 3-hook baits do a lot of damage to fish and can be tough get out of a net. 2 hooks are safer when de-hooking a fish. You can go with two hooks and up-size the hooks. I think your hanger loop positions look good. My baits in the 7-9 inch range typically have a 3/0 or 2/0 on the belly and a 2/0 on the tail, unless it is a thin bait. Your bait looks like an inch and change diameter at the belly hanger. If the bait is round, I would see what 3/0 looks like on the belly. If the bait is a thin and flat bait maybe a 2/0 on the belly and 1/0 tail. On some of the 3-hook ba
  15. Both lexan and metal props will work. Both make a lot of commotion. The metal will spin faster and make more noise. But, the metal does stand out more and may get bit less in clear or calm water or slow retrieves. I have not tried thinner lexan yet. Nothing wrong with the white one except that it weighs a lot. It gets tiring to cast. The white one had the body cut straight across. The chart/orange/black had the edges of the cut sanded to round them over and the tail end is more tapered which I think looks better. I guess the looks are a personal preference and confidence thing. I like the
  16. The white one is 7 inches. The chartreuse and orange with black back is 9 inches. Prop is lexan 1/8th inch thick, heated and bent. These are my first 2 attempts at a globe. Both work. I like the taper and shape of the 9 inch one better. I just wish it was 6 inches with a smaller prop. The 7" is ok on length but I made it a bit too thick. They both need to weigh a bit less to make it easier to cast.
  17. Nice. And brass is a bit better than copper from a galvanic corrosion standpoint with stainless. I find some stuff at Grainger.com too. Between them and Mcmaster you can find lots of odds and ends. When I made a globe lure, I epoxied a coffee stirring straw through the front section. The straw was sticking out of each end of the front section so no epoxy would get in the straw. When the epoxy dried, I clipped each end of the straw flush. I installed the prop with one tiny screw on each side of the center hole after pre-drilling. After that, I epoxied a rivet into each end of the stra
  18. It sounds like you are talking about a tubular conductor aka hollow conductor tubing. I think that it will be hard to find and expensive for lure building. It may have to be ordered from a specialty wire manufacturer. It is used when you need to conduct electricity and the current's heat needs to be cooled internally with air or a liquid. It's used in stuff like electrical transformers, MRI machines, generators. You might be able to find some square tubing used in making jewelry. That type of tubing is usually flexible. I don't know if that tubing comes with a round tube on the inside.
  19. The only epoxies I have seen yellow have been the 5 minute types. I have not had D2T or Etex yellow. I kept my thinned spar urethane in the original can which is definitely not the best storage way. Air got in and it skinned over. I kept using it after peeling the skin off the top. It worked fine for a couple of months until it was used up. I was only using it to seal. I did have to add some extra mineral spirits as the spar did get thicker over time. If I use spar again, I would use a jar as Eastman said maybe with a piece of saran wrap under the lid for extra sealing. Just my opinion,
  20. Lately, once last week and today 12/6 6:34EST, the site has seemed a bit slow. It could just be the peak demand time for my ISP. When it is like that, i cannot make a response post. I get the error message below: Unread Content Mark site read Home Sorry, there is a problem The page you requested does not exist Error code: 1S160/2 Contact Us
  21. As others have stated, some people use epoxy as a sealer. Others use it to have a smooth surface to start painting on so no sanding marks, seams (lure body or foil), or ballast hole fill-ins show through the paint. Others use it to add depth to paint schemes. You can paint your base colors, clear coat it, and then add another paint coat with mesh to give a more 3D look to scales. You can also use epoxy mid paint job before any substantial fine detail work in case you mess that up. Disadvantages: lure is bulkier and weighs more with an additional epoxy coat. It could shift how the lure
  22. Possibly inspired by divine intervention or alien telepathic communication, you come up with a great idea for a lure. You spend several hours shaping the body. It comes out perfectly symmetrical. The lip slot is perfectly straight. You seal the bait and get the perfect ballast placement in your test tub. You drill the ballast hole and have no wood splintering. After installing the ballast, you re-seal the lure for added protection. You are so excited about your creation you decide to take the lure to the unfrozen portion of a small river on a cloudy dreary 30 degree day to test the action. Yo
  23. As Eastman03 and Vodkaman said, if you are making large quantities of flat sided lures the planer would be useful. Personally, I never used my planer. I gave it to a friend who makes furniture. I have not had a problem doing it the way you described. The most useful thing I have is a bench belt sander with a side wheel and shelf. Use a square on the sander's side shelf to make sure it is at 90 degrees to the sanding wheel. Before sanding the one side down to the correct thickness, I use a mini speed square to mark down on all sides how much I am going to take off. A lot of bait bodies h
  24. I mostly make large baits and use D2T. It sometimes does fish eye on certain foils and decals and can make certain inks runs. In those situations, I do spray a mid-coat of polycrylic. Rustoleum 2x clear works. MinWax makes one too. I do let the mid-coat fully dry. If it is not dry, it causes problems with D2T sliding off into sags or air blisters under the D2T. I use a hair dryer or heat gun to blow off the lure before the coats. That way the lure gets a bit of heat and I don't spray any residual water vapor or brush cleaner onto the bait. Other possibilities for problems to arise could
  25. I am not quite sure how they were made. I have multiples of some of those types of baits. On the some of the ones I have fished, the hook rash has gone through to the body. So, I can tell they are not printed decals. It looks like some base colors were painted, then some highlight colors painted in certain areas probably by stencil, then an ink stamp was used to make the fine details (scales/fins/lateral line/gill plate/ circles around the eyes), and on some color schemes then additional paint was applied in select areas on top of the fine detail. The fine details are typically black ink.
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