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Everything posted by JD_mudbug

  1. I fish with a lot of older lures. I got lucky back in the 80s and 90s and was able to get a couple of large stockpiles of old Arbogast, Heddon, Rebel, Bomber, Creek Chub, Bagleys, Storm, Manns lures . Some of those old lures have incredibly detailed paint jobs that rival today’s lures. Arbogast had the Seein’s Believin series. Bagley’s had the Small Fry series, Rebel had the Naturalized Series, etc. At the same time, those companies also made some very simple colors. My original Seein’s Believin Mud-bugs and my repaint Mud-bugs in black with gold glitter are in a battle for my favorite mi
  2. Most of the major brands have a wide array of colors. It is hard to just single out one brand. SK has a lot of colors I like. 6th Sense makes some nice ones too. When I make a lure, the color just comes down to personal preference or perhaps to fill a hole in the color spectrum that I can’t buy elsewhere. I repaint some brand name lures with black or black with blue flake because that color is hard to find in a hard bait. At night, dawn/dusk, and in muddy water, black is usually a great choice. A lot of people use a certain color based on confidence. I think that becomes a self-fulli
  3. I agree with the others (and Engineered Angler) that wire through is best, especially for musky/pike. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIEhsMILC08 If you do use screw eyes on big baits, I would also drill slight cup on the bait body after pre-drilling the thread. That way the screw eye gets countersunk a bit and the opening in the eye gets covered with epoxy. You could try Hillman screw eyes from the big box stores. They come in stainless and zinc plated. Sizes 212 to 206 will fit big baits. They don't have as long a thread as the LPO screws. But, the bigger diameter and
  4. Nice finish. It's annoying when you can't recreate a happy accident. Like RPM said, probably not enough pigment. Could there had been something in your gun after rinsing out the green that hit the lure first when you sprayed the black? Is it possible the green paint wasn't not fully set? I have accidentally got some crackle finishes and splotchy finishes when the underneath paint was not fully dry when I thought it was. I put on the top paint evenly. The underneath paint still has a bit moisture causing the top to pool to random spots. Sometimes the top paint semi-dries first. Then,
  5. I usually go with trial and error. I find that to be quicker. I bought some 1/4” diameter solid lead wire sinker coil off amazon which you can cut to any length. I also made some ballast weights for bigger lures by drilling a bunch of holes partially through scrap wood with 3/8” and 1/2" forstner bits. I drill the holes at varying depths. I melt some old saltwater lead sinkers in a big heavy spoon with a propane torch and pour the lead into the holes (do it outside, wear a mask, gloves, etc.). Just don’t use any hole that goes through the wood. When the lead cools, tap the wood upside do
  6. JD_mudbug

    My first Wobbler

    Well done on the lure and the video.
  7. Thanks. I like a tail fin that will collapse somewhat for the best shot at a hook up on a tail strike. I have some fins made from a pulley belt off an old piece of machinery. The belt fins only last a couple of years but the belt was a free trash find. Coffee can and nut can type covers are decent too. I try to save any flexible plastic stuff from the packages of the stuff I buy normally. I cut off any flat sections to build up a stash of different colors. My favorite fins so far are the silicone place mats because they cut easy with scissors and last a long time.
  8. For easy soft fins, you can cut them out of a flexible plastic containers (margarine tubs, milk jugs, etc) or cut them out of plastic notebook covers. You can also make them out of paint brush bristles. Because of pure simplicity, my favorite so far is cutting them out of silicone place mats which you can get on Ebay. They come in a bunch of colors and are durable. I still haven't found a way to add detail to the silicone mat fins. You can draw lines/spots on them with some sharpie type markers which last for a while. The ink eventually washes off the fins. If you are going into carving a
  9. I usually draw the center line one of 2 ways. The first way is sort of like Dave said. I lay the pencil horizontally on something I have hanging around the shop. For example a 1/2" center-line, I use a scrap piece of 1/4" trim board, with 2 pieces of scrap sheet metal stacked with the pencil on top. I sometimes have to use index cards, cardboard or whatever I can find that is flat to get the pencil at the right height. Trace the bait around the pencil, flip the bait and repeat for the 2 lines. Try to get the pencil to the height of one of your center marks and a lot of times the two tracings
  10. For the hook tangling, you could move the front hanger back just a bit as long as you have the room so the 2 hooks don't hook each other. For the front hook, you could also go with a short shank treble or an EWG treble that has the points tipped in a bit . You can add a Suspend strip or wire to the hook shank if the difference in hook weights affects the action. You could also use a stiffer leader like a heavier flouro to keep the lure from swinging towards the line. That switch to a heavier rod may help with the tangling too. If the medium rod was under powered for the glide's weight, y
  11. It looks like an Allcock Nature Series lure made by Samuel Allcock Co. from the U.K . They were a fishing tackle distributor that also made some lures. I would not fish it. It could be worth some money. Hardy Brothers lures, James Gregory lures, and Gutta-Percha made somewhat similar lures in the U.K./europe.
  12. Nice lure. I think it comes down to personal preference. I have used Etex and D2T. As Mark said, Etex is more flexible than D2T. My lures cleared with Etex get punctured by teeth more frequently than D2T. I have had small pickerel under 20” puncture Etex. Some of my Etex lures look like they have been hit by miniature machine gun fire. On the positive, I have not had a chunk of Etex break off yet. Any pieces that have broken off have been very small, usually because of multiple punctures in close proximity. D2T seems more resistant to toothy fish damage and hook rash. But whe
  13. I believe piano wire vibrates more. The downside is that loses it shape more easily and thus requires more tuning.
  14. Like Hillbilly said, you could hit the lure with a hair dryer/heat gun to warm it, dry the paint fully, and blow the dust off before clear coat. Also, you could build a quick lure holder like the one I made in this post. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/33862-big-lure-holder/?tab=comments#comment-278455 Put an eye screw in each end on the side so you can hang the holder on a nail with the lure nose down or nose up. You could just stand it on end and fasten it with tape to something so it won't fall over. Clear coat another big lure on the holder. Hang the ho
  15. I have used D2T on similar musky blanks. So, I don’t think the type of plastic is the problem. I don’t think the vibration from the rotisserie is the problem either. Many people use rotisserie motors for turners without problems. Mine has a slight vibration to it. I don’t think they have the power to create vibrations drastic enough to effect epoxy curing. In theory, I guess massive vibration could cause the epoxy to heat up and cure before it has time to level out. But, I doubt that is achievable from a rotisserie unless it defective. I have seen other posts on here where people
  16. I put a rivet on the wire, super glue/epoxy the rivet stem in the body) to prevent wearing on the lure body, put on an LPO disc washer or a bead on the wire for a bearing, put on prop, then another bead (sometimes I will put 2 beads on here- see below) , make a loop with round pliers or a nail in a vise, when making the loop leave a small gap between the loop and the last bead, put the looped part of wire vertically in vise, use vise grips or needle nose to grab tag end of wire, wrap the tag end around the main shaft of wire working from the loop back towards the lure body, wrap until desire
  17. I use a sharpie a lot just because of the convenience. In addition to trout dots, they make nice crappie marks. As Seakarp suggested, I have also taken a sheet of plastic and punched holes in it to make quick stencils. Punch holes with just about anything (or lay on scrap wood and drill) and use a razor knife to flush cut the underside if the stencil gets slightly dented in around a hole. I also sometimes use those round dot stickers from walmart found the office/school department to make dots. They are like masking tape. You get 500 stickers for a couple of bucks. I paint one color
  18. Thanks. I agree on the hook size. I am out of 2/0 to 5/0 trebles. I have been waiting on some 2/0 and 3/0 hooks for a while from overseas. I had to used the biggest I had, 1/0 and short shank 2/0. The white one is so bulbous it needs a 3/0 on the front, maybe even a 4/0.
  19. Pic in the gallery. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/gallery/image/19807-musky-ploppers-and-130-whopper-plopperjpg/ They have varying degrees of bulbosity.
  20. 130 size rainbow trout whopper plopper for size reference.
  21. I have made a couple of the musky plopper baits. On one, I followed this guy's video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VqrzyXAfJlA&t=231s I made the bodies myself. The shape is simple to make. One I made was a split body like in the video and epoxied back together with D2T. Another I made was a solid (non-split) body made with a dowel: (Sorry in advance for the length) It was simpler to make than the length of description implies. The only real tricky part was drilling the center shaft hole. That was easier once I found a long 1/8" drill bit a Home D
  22. It reminds me of a lure I bought a few years ago, JLV lures deep diver. They are still sold on Amazon in a few colors. https://www.amazon.com/s?i=merchant-items&me=A1H8JQEX5G83L7&page=6&marketplaceID=ATVPDKIKX0DER&qid=1584804636&ref=sr_pg_6
  23. I found some blades from China that will take .092 screws. From Countbass, they sell some on Ebay and some on Aliexpress. They have the specs of the props down near the bottom of the page. They accept Paypal. I ordered from them once and it took around 5 weeks for delivery to northeast USA. These blades are 1.65” and have somewhat pointed tips. https://www.ebay.com/itm/50Pack-Pointed-Propellers-Stainless-Steel-Propeller-Style-Spinner-Blades/162225960153?hash=item25c56bb4d9:g:1o8AAOSwTbJdP7n0 These are 1.34” and have pointed tips. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3276169607
  24. Could you use that lure body for a different lure type. That body with far less ballast and a lip would make a great 'Shellcracker' type bait. I have made a couple that size from cedar with ballast just in the front half. They weigh 1 to 3 ounces depending on size and ballast. They are so bouyant that they wake with the rod held up and they dive 2-3 with the rod tip down, making them very versatile.
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