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JD_mudbug

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Everything posted by JD_mudbug

  1. Unfortunately, most of the props with a .092+ hole are big. https://www.ebay.com/itm/50pcs-Stainless-Steel-Prop-Blades-Propeller-Blades-DIY-Topwater-Fishing-Lures-/162710994902 I stumbled across these props from China. These are 1.02 inches long. The hole is .091, just a bit too small. You could expand the hole a hair with a small round file instead of having to drill. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Steel-Precision-File-Set-with-Storage-Case-6-Piece-707476H/207112197 I use this file set a lot. The round file to expand holes. The square file is great for finishing perfec
  2. I used these LPO props to make an amazon ripper type bait by putting a clockwise one in front of a counterclockwise one separated by a bearing washer. They will work with a .092 screw. Each prop takes up 1/4" of the screw so you have to account for that in choosing the screw length. The props are 2.5 inches tip to tip. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Chopper-Prop 2.5 squarebill shown for scale.
  3. JD_mudbug

    Wire Size

    Thanks Woodie. Do you know what grade the tig wire you are using is- 304, 308, 316, etc ? I can't find a supply in my area to check out and will most likely have to order it.
  4. JD_mudbug

    Wire Size

    I have not tried tig rod yet. Based on what Eastman said, I am hoping it is softer than the LPO shaft wire. According to an old post, tig rod comes in varying hardness. I just need to locate a welding supply shop near me. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/9762-stainless-steel-wire/ I tried using the LPO .062 and it was brutal to shape. I was barely able to bend it into a safety pin loop for a trolling spinnerbait for pike. We have some big pike in the some of the waters I fish. I've had .040 wire ruined by 40" pike, bent and twisted so bad the wire broke wh
  5. JD_mudbug

    Wire Size

    I also use the .051 stainless wire for most of my lures like through-wired lures, whopper ploppers and globe prop lures. For line ties and hook hangers, I typically use LPO stainless .092 magnum screw eyes. On small lures (2.5 squarebill or smaller) , I use the stainless .072 screw eyes. I no longer use thinner diameter screw eyes or brass screw eyes as I have had those break. Occasionally, I use gate hardware screw eyes on large baits (2 oz and up) especially if I can find them in stainless. I find these in the draws in small hardware stores so I can just buy the screws. They typic
  6. I have done a couple of things on that particular blank. For a fuller skirt, attach a size 2 split ring to the lure tail hanger; attach a size 3 split ring to the size 2 ring; put the the skirt on the size 2 ring with some needle nose pliers (slide it right past the size 3 ring); after the skirt is on, hold the bait head down so the skirt falls to the nose and put your hook on the size 3 ring. The skirt sits on the size 2 ring up against the lure body and is kept on by the larger size 3 ring. For thinner skirts, I just run a tab (or a tab and half tab) of skirt material through a tr
  7. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/33862-big-lure-holder/?tab=comments#comment-279044 My holder is sort of like Raven's holder. I use scrap wood and L brackets to make them. The eye bolt and swivel allow for manual rotation. Tighten the nut to prevent rotation. Add an eye screw on the side of the end to hang it vertically.
  8. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Creeper-Wing-Sets LPO has some. LPO calls them creeper wings.
  9. Sorry, I didn't see that LPO was out. Get Bit Custom Baits is also out of stock. I have purchased a few of Predator's foiled 110s and they are good. Not a true silver plate, but very close and good action. I was able to put 10 in my cart without getting an 'out of stock'.
  10. Also, LPO has a silver jerkbait similar to the 110. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Agile-4-1-2-Flasher-Minnow_2?quantity=1&custcol13=8
  11. Predatorbassbaits.com has a holographic foil 110.
  12. I got the idea from that. I ordered a pack of Nose Jobs from TW to try. Shortly, after I received them I was in the hardware store in the picture hanging hardware aisle. Saw a big 3" diameter suction cup hanger and had deja vu.
  13. I made my jitterbug type lure with the Murray cod type lip. I haven't figured out a good way to make uniform curves in lexan. I might just have to get some heavy gloves and bend heated lexan around a pipe. I did try a cupped lip on my bait by using a big suction cup hanger and carving it into a jitterbug shape. One of these things: I took off the metal hook, carved some off the top and bottom into jitterbug-lip shape with a razor knife, drilled a hole through the center and mounted it to the bait with an eye screw. This did give my bait some action. I get some action at the hea
  14. I agree with DaBehr on the the colorado blades, especially the Hildebrandt colorados. That brand of colorado blade seems to thump the most. I also like the wide willow blade. It thumps a little bit less than a colorado but gives off more flash and casts a bit better. They are sometimes called mag willow, turtle back, cascade, or olympic blade. Terminator calls their version of it, the Oklahoma blade. Lure Parts Online sells them too. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Lure-Making/Shop-By-Product-Category/Spinner-Blades-Spoons/Spinner-Blades/Wide-Willowleaf-Blades?page=1
  15. You're welcome. The thanks really go to Dieter. The wings on Dieter's creeper are amazing. A lot of work went into those. I haven't seen him post anything recently. I find myself re-watching his old videos for motivation to make a new lure.
  16. Mark, You're welcome, btw. I forgot to put that in the last post. I lurked on this site for a while before joining. I usually don't make multiples of a particular bait. So, I never felt 'expert' enough to contribute to the site. It's a good feeling when I can.
  17. Nothing permanent. I used a fine black Sharpie to draw detail lines on the lighter color fins. You may have to go over the same line twice to get the ink to show. Sometimes certain ball point pens can write on it. Pens seem completely random as to whether they can put ink on the mat. The ink will last maybe an hour or two of casting. It wears off quick. I have let ink dry on a fin for over a week. When I touch it, it still wipes away. Touching it with your fingers will wipe off any ink. I have tried several paints they just wipe off. I tried standing on a window screen over the mat
  18. I have an Arbogast musky jitterbug, the Jitterbug XL. I put it in a pan filled with water. It sits slightly nose down. The body is approximately a 1" diameter near the head. It does not start to narrow much until the last third of the body. It tapers down to around 3/8" at the end. It is 4 and 1/2" long. It does not feel like any weight is in the body. It might have a small belly or tail weight but I couldn't tell. It does have two trebles mounted mid-bait, one on each side which may negate the need for weight. It just looks like the wider body up front offsets the weight of the metal lip.
  19. When I make my baits, they are usually one-offs. I needed a way to easily make fins of different shape, sizes and colors. It would be great I someone could figure out how to make details on those mats. Everything just wipes off them. I have thought of heating stiff wire to try to brand detail lines on them, but haven't tried it yet. Most of the baits I make are large baits - 6" to 12". The fins on the some these baits are close to 2" in height. I usually have a hook that overlaps the start of the tail fin, sometimes touching the slope of the bottom of the tail fin. Sometimes the bot
  20. They were generic-type Chinese made. I bought one silicone baking mat at Dollar General. It was reddish-brown. It was thick, 3/16". Its was $4 and was 18 inch x 12 inch. That has been the thickest I have found. The rest of the mats I have I bought off random Ebay sellers, usually any where from $1.75 to $4 each.. There are alot of sellers- different sizes and colors, some have textures. Most are 1 mm thick. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Heat-Resistant-Silicone-Kitchen-Baking-Liner-Pad-Bakeware-Non-stick-Table-Mat/232812893544?hash=item3634bad568:m:mLK9IbwZTsBIHF6HL2bVEqA https:
  21. I use fins cut from silicone place-mats. Many colors available, give a nice sway on the retrieve, fold down when bit, durable, easy to make. The 'transparent' ones are a see-through cloudy whitish-gray color that will go with most baits. Sometimes I use fins cut from a flexible plastic container (milk jug, water gallon, margarine bucket) or plastic notebook cover. There are a couple of threads on it but I could only find one. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/34563-soft-tails-for-swimbait/?tab=comments#comment-284529
  22. My several cents. If money is no object, buy a Water Wolf camera as that is essentially what you are making. Otherwise, there are a few things you could try. Wipe some spit or use some anti-fog spray for goggles on the polycarbonate just before you put the camera in. Try making a PVC body instead of wood. Wood expands and contracts and that is probably enough to allow a tiny bit of moisture in around the gaskets. Plus, there is probably some moisture in the wood itself. Maybe get rid of the hole for the on/off button. This would be a pain as you would have to install the c
  23. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/34979-devcon-2-ton-problems/ I had one new tube that was bad. I think it had been sitting in the store for quite a while. I didn't notice it was slightly cloudy when I bought it. I had a second tube go bad because I left it in my car overnight in winter.
  24. I believe the Mid Wee R was a 6 - 8' diver. It was supposed to fill the gap between the Wee R ( 4.5 - 6' ) and the Deep Wee R ( 8 - 10' ). I think it was only made for a year or two around 2002.
  25. I usually brush a bit of superglue around the seam, nose tie, and hook hangers on unpainted blanks. It just takes a second and dries quickly. Once water gets in the bait, it is difficult to get out.
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