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Goose77

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Everything posted by Goose77

  1. Hey Erick, good for you. Fly fishing and tying is a lot of fun. My wife and I do a lot of topwater work for both large and smallmouth. For someone like you that has a lure building background, the Wapsi Perfect poppers may be a good fit. The TCS hard body ones in size 2 and 4 make nice flies...so do the pencil poppers. You can be as elaborate as you like. I do a lot of deer hair work as well...and these are probably more effective, but are harder to make. Clouser's are a great subsurface fly, and so are many synthetic minnow patterns. Wooly Buggers are good too. We were out today and got a bunch of bass and panfish. Good luck and cheers, Ed
  2. That is cool! Thank you. Ed
  3. Hey Chuck. There is a good review on flitting forum called "uv shootout" which covers the properties of several popular uv resins. I've used Solarez, Clear Cure Goo, and Loon products...they're all good. Be aware that all these resins leave a tacky surface after curing...the tack is there to allow the next coat to adhere. AFTER the final coat, the tack can be removed with rubbing alcohol or coated over with Sally Hansen's [or similar product]. Good luck, Ed Sorry, it's Fly Tying Forum!
  4. Hey fshng2, those are some good lookin' jigs...nice work! Cheers, Ed
  5. Gliders, those look coooool! Thank you for posting. Cheers, Ed
  6. There seem to be alot of decent airbrushes out there that perform overall well. Part of this will depend on how much money you want to spend. Also how big is the work? A big bait without alot of detail can use a bigger needle in the brush. Likewise, a smaller needle and a brush with a mac valve would be better for fine details. I do mainly flyfishing poppers [up to saltwater size], and get by pretty well with my Iwata HP-CS. Like Muskie said, these are nice tools, and readily available. At Hobby Lobby you can get a good airbrush [including Iwata] at a 40% discount any day of the week with their coupon. Good for you...getting new stuff is often fun. Cheers, Ed
  7. Good for you...must be a relief. Good luck with your work. Cheers, Ed
  8. Hey Smithers, welcome to the site. I'm sorry you're having problems...this is frustrating at times. First, your choice of paints [and variety] is overall really good. The ComArt paints are pretty good, but more variable than Createx. The Createx paints are good paints, I like them and it seems, many prefer them over all others. The translucent paints are generally thinner and do spider on hard surfaces, even with low pressure at times. The opaque paints are harder for me to shoot, so at times I thin them...some folks don't thin Createx at all. The Wicked paints I almost always thin...I use separate bottles for tis and get them where I like them [skim milk is about right]. Your airbrush is super...it's a great tool. I assume you're cleaning it. I believe your technique looks pretty good too. It seems you're looking for clean lines, and in my experience that's not what happens. The edges of the painted area do look fuzzy...that can be an advantage. Clean lines mean masking for me. I have the same airbrush, and I can't do real sharp, fine lines. Build your colors and shades a little at a time [repeat that]. Be patient and build the work gradually. I actually believe you're doing ok. Hang in there and cheers, Ed
  9. Hey Joel, good for you. It sounds like a good present indeed. Looks like that will be a great tool for you. Cheers, Ed
  10. Hey crappie, those jigs will do the job...good for you and Happy New Year! Ed
  11. Oh yeah, there are some nice videos on Youtube that may be good...look under "panfish flies." Cheers, Ed
  12. Mark, that bait is cool! Must have been alot of fun to plan and build...and fun when it was done. Good for you and Happy New Year. Ed
  13. Hey Quinn, the Copic system came up recently as a topic...or as part of a recent thread. This system has been very popular in fly tying circles [i'm a fly tier and bug builder]. It is tough to topcoat with anything but epoxy, and the ink still smears with some epoxies. Bob Smith 30 minute has been good though. Mark recently pointed out [and again in his above note] that the smearing of inks can be avoided with a coat of Createx Clear Gloss over the ink before the final topcoat...I plan to try this, and appreciate his tip. Having said all this, in the end I believe you'll be a happier camper when you can use an airbrush...it made a big positive difference in the quality of my work. Merry Christmas. Ed
  14. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all. I'm very grateful for this site, and received far more than I've given. Thank you! Ed
  15. Merry Christmas crappie 0913. I do like marabou for crappie flies. Bucktail seems a little long for most of my panfish flies. A really good fly for crappie is a small Clouser variant. Instead of dumbell eyes you can use small bead chain [hardware store is the best place] and a wing of calftail with a small amount of crystal flash. Small streamers in your favorite color are good too...stuff in the profile of black nosed dace or Mickey Finn. Cheers, Ed
  16. Muskie...those guys are right on with this stuff. It is great...and lasts a long time. Merry Christmas all, Ed
  17. Hey Joel, good for you. I'm sure you'll like it...and Merry Christmas! Ed
  18. I agree with Travis and BobP...the designated airbrush paints and acrylic artist ink is easier for me...fewer hassles. My Iwata Eclipse has a .35 needle so the paint has to be moderately fine. The ComArt paints are ok, Createx very good, and Golden high flow maybe the best for my uses. Cheers, Ed
  19. Ol' Rob, thank you for the tip. Cheers, Ed
  20. Hey brettsky, nice work and good for you. I wish my first attempts looked as good as yours. We are very lucky to have this kind of fun "work" to keep us busy. Cogratulations and cheers, Ed
  21. Hey Mark, thank you for the tip. Cheers, Ed
  22. Hey fishon, I have the copic system and have used it quite a bit. Rayburn's link to a previous thread on this is well worth reading and heeding. This Copic system is ok, but has some serious limitations. Bleeding and running of colors is a problem for masking and clearcoat work. The ink will bleed under any masking that I've used, and masking over the dried ink did not work for me at all. Glues often cause bleeding too...much more so than with acrylic paints. Fine detail work is tough too. There is also a tendency for some of the colors to fade or change considerably [even out of the sun] in a matter of months. For these reasons, I use a standard airbrush almost exclusively. I sell alot of my work, and the above problems gave me the creeps. Have alot more confidence in airbrush paint. Cheers, Ed
  23. Hey barr, neat video. Thank you and cheers, Ed
  24. Hey guys, I saw [another] one last weekend in St. Louis at FeatherCraft. Kind of a neat machine...the videos of these also seem kind of neat. BUT they are expensive and seem to hold alot of water. I think for designing streamers for moving water they might be useful...don't know. I do mainly topwater for bass/pike/salt...so I'm not interested. Cheers, Ed
  25. I have a small airbrush compressor similar to the one Travis describes. Also got it at Hobby Lobby...they offer coupons for 40% off, so it was a good deal. The performance is similar to what Travis describes too. This has been fine. I do mainly small and relatively detailed work, so there's no need for higher pressures. Having said all this, when this device gives up the ghost, I'll go with a fancier compressor...that may be awhile. I like this little compressor. It is quiet enough to work in the house while my wife is asleep. No loud noises like you hear on some videos. Cheers, Ed
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