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Chuck Young

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Chuck Young last won the day on December 26 2020

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About Chuck Young

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  • Birthday 11/21/1958

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    New Hampshire

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  1. Sometimes inaction is the trigger - like when a Muskie hits it on the pause. I have seen prey freeze when faced with a predator. Some fish attack a school, stunning or wounding prey. This might be another case where inaction triggers a strike.
  2. I use Folkart colorshift paints all the time. They make three colors, Green / gold; Blue / violet; and Red / violet. I had my doubts about them at first, but the pigments are very fine and spray well once reduced. A little goes a long way - so apply it with a fine head. I have about 6 patterns that center on one or more of these. But they are also very useful for highlights. I use them on smelt, shiners, blue back herring, etc. I feel these shifting colors create confusion in predators, using up some of their discretionary brain power. "Eat it quick - before it does that again and I
  3. That looks AWESOME!
  4. For every new blank that I buy, peghook tag. On it is recorded: weight, length of body, OAL, hook options, eye size, depth. When I pull off a blank to paint it, that info is right there. You can check different blank suppliers to see what size they recommend. If you are searching for great eyes at a great price, contact "Ed and Lisa's eyes".
  5. I just posted pics of some completed foiled saltwater lures. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/gallery/image/21365-men-atl-f14-2jpg/ http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/gallery/image/21364-bbh-f14-6jpg/ http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/gallery/image/21363-mack-f14-pr1jpg/ http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/gallery/image/21362-mack-sil-bl2jpg/
  6. First, get the right foil. I have had excellent results using (finger)nail art foil. It is very thin. You can buy it in bulk on approx 4cm x 120 meter long rolls. Holographic silver and silver are both very useful. You will need the following: Several sheets of craft foam (9x12 x 1/4") cut into four 9" strips, Long cure epoxy (E - tex or Dev 2t with DNA added to slow it down), 2-3 C clamps 6", Flat table to clamp to, Thin board to go atop the foam, scissors. Tape the bills on your lure. Cut two strips of the foil a little longer than your lure. Cut a slit in each where the lip is on
  7. My favorite metallic colors are: Wicked gold, Wicked silver, and Craftsmart metallic Titanium (if you can find it). But if you want true metallic shine, get some fingernail art foil in metallic silver and holographic silver. There are tutorials on this forum on how to do this. Metallic paints can be applied over a black or white base. The effects are quite different. A quick pass fine mist can also be sprayed over a completed paint job. It acts almost like glitter. Have fun
  8. I have used Createx and wicked paint for a long time .They are an excellent choice. Use Createx / Wicked 4012 reducer to thin paint. Use Createx Transparent base to make paints more transparent - or as a base coat over foils and such. Use water between colors. Use Airbrush restorer then water as final cleanup. Those three products are absolutely necessary. As for clear coats, I have used several. Devcon 2 ton 30 min epoxy is available in small or med quantities. It can be thinned with Denatured alcohol to increase the cure time. It should be rotated - a lure turner is recommended.
  9. My worst casting failure happened when I was night fishing for bass. A jumbo size Jitterbug makes an excellent earing.
  10. There is no paper backing. Just pure foil. But the foil is not metal. It is mylar, I believe. The duller part goes next to the lure. The clear plastic backing (which gets removed) goes to the outside allows you to handle it. This gets removed after the epoxy sets. The shine you see through the clear plastic is the shine you get after the plastic is removed. Excess epoxy can cause some wrinkling on the edges in some (fatter) lures. but this can be trimmed or sanded. The foil can also be applied to tacky resin which is set. But details such as scales would be lost. The actual thickne
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