Jump to content


TU Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


azsouth last won the day on May 25

azsouth had the most liked content!

About azsouth

  • Birthday November 16

Profile Information

  • Location
  • Interests
    fishing, hunting

Recent Profile Visitors

2,490 profile views

azsouth's Achievements


Enthusiast (6/14)

  • Conversation Starter Rare
  • Reacting Well Rare
  • Very Popular Rare
  • First Post Rare
  • Collaborator Rare

Recent Badges



  1. Bad no, Lack of experience yes. 1. Dull areas have contamination or oxidation. 2. Cut reliefs for bends and turns. 3. Each foil has it's limitations. 4. Learn the failing point of the foil by pressure exerted when applying. ( make it fail ) 5. Nothing replaces experience. 6. Some foils will do quite well with heat and pressure. 7. You should wear disposable gloves when foiling to keep natural oils off the foil. 8. Always wipe down foil when finished with clean cloth. 9. wood pencil/dowel works best to apply foil. It's not just about one step, it's about putting all the steps together.
  2. work the foil from the center of the bait to the end, top and bottom....I use a round wood pencil to get the foil to lay against the bait without wrinkles, then wipe it down with a clean rag to get all contaminants of the foil. BTW no need to foil the top of the bait.
  3. try a different UV Resin, Not all UV Resin are the same....I have never had the issue you're having and I use foil tape on lures. Hard type UV Resin is what I use.
  4. Thin multiple light layers is the best way for KBS....it can be extremely touchy when above 80 degrees and high humidity. NOTE: IT CAN TAKE UP TO 2 WEEKS TO FULLY CURE. Read all the precautions that are on the can or on the KBS site to be in the know.
  5. Excess humidity can and will cause KBS to flash, if you can live with blemishes I would do that. Otherwise strip and have back at it.
  6. azsouth


    There is always a chance to sell it to one person but not always likely. Biggest problem I see is shipping cost....List it and see is the only way.
  7. It's a deep pour Epoxy. I find it amazing how technology changes so fast, not sure the durability of thinner applications will work but I would like to hear if anyone is using a Deep pour epoxy for lures.
  8. I watched some videos but always willing to take any advice.
  9. I tried looking it up without the exact name! but what is the name of the jigs with the skirt basically stands in a ball shape and how to achieve it? Thx in advance.
  10. Take hardware off and tape up the bill, then light scuff the bait, then have at it....Yes you will have to seal it.
  11. proportionate to the size of the bait. Most Garage bait makers that I have seen, usually try multiple lips on each bait.
  12. Wake baits normally do quite a bit better with a moveable tail. A fixed tail seems to kill the action on any wake I have made.
  13. It depends on the bait, how big the tail is relevant to the bait, type of tail ( hard to soft )... Generally for argument sake glide baits have a stationary tail and wake/divers have a moveable tail. Yes the type of tail can/will drastically give or take away movement depending on the bait. Specifics can only be answered properly with the type, size and weight of the bait. Built a few baits.... I always try several different tails to get the exact action I want. My .02
  14. Isn't there someway we can help Smalljaw? Help people when they are down!
  • Create New...