azsouth

Why don't we list the American suppliers? are they buying from overseas? I would be the first to stand in line waving the flag but I am hesitant to do this for companies/people I don't know. I am just curious if there are any US manufactured baits left?

got an order from them about 3 weeks ago, but you have to remember they are in China under the lockdown.

You might want to pay attention to what AZ Fisher is saying....I have a few of his wakes and I do quite well with them. I still have" That one looked like a Frankenbait but swam good" and it still gets crushed.

Contact cement just doesn't work.... and trying to put foil on a dowel rod, I would love to see a video of that

I don't have a ton of experience with foil but I think I can help. 1. Make sure that you are using the detachable side. 2. Just because it say heat transfer does not make it so. 3. You will need to use a lure with a flat surface first so you can get an idea if there is an optimal temperature and pressure. 4. If you can't get to adhere with heat and pressure .... use thin cyanoacrylate adhesive only!!! I can tell you if you go this direction it will work but there are several issues that go with this process!! 1. First and foremost be very care with the thin cyanoacrylate adhesive, you can easily glue unintended things together like your fingers to the bait or each other!! 2. Thin coat!! I can not stress this enough, if it puddles or creates drops you are using to much and will not adhere properly and will create a raised lip at the edge of the adhesive. 3. I use a soft towel to press the foil properly on to the bait 4. After putting foil and bait together let it sit for at least 1 minute...every second creates a stronger bond. 5. When removing foil it should be a quick single motion. 6. PRACTICE ON A BAIT THAT YOU DON'T MIND MESSING UP. My .02

There can be a few reasons why, Humidity, below 70, too much heat after applying KBS.... These are some of the reasons but not all....use the search feature at the top right.

There are a lot of different reasons why fluid beds don't work. Here are a couple. 1. Moisture in the powder. 2. Powder is compacted, just use something to stir it and add air. 3. Lack of air flow.

I find it funny "whining about $15".... if your "Fishing Big" you're dropping more money than that on snap rings alone. to think there was nothing else on the site you could not of used.

Put the time behind the brush, thinning paint helped me the most in the beginning. KEEP YOUR BRUSH CLEAN.

If that's the worst your doing well!! just a heads up different rings will change the movement.

only at the strip club.

Always test with hooks, but like above stated....need to see size,joint, etc...moving location of hooks should get the balance back.

.035 has more vibration than heavier wire but it will not hold up very well to largemouth, you will have to tune it almost after every fish but it will get bit a lot more.

Welcome to TU, you might want to use the search feature for this question. by the way I don't know of any top coat that you can apply below freezing.

most guys that make spinners would be able to make a bait in the time that it would take you to change a blade. I don't see any time savings.

No real good way to do what you want, most wire is pretty cheap. So take notes as you build.

To me it looks like there is moisture under the finish coat.

inline for me...#5 inline blade, .12 oz body, 2 beads, #6 hook and wire is .026-.024 generally comes out to a total of.23oz.

exactly what type of spinners, inline, Colorado, French, and so on. Types of fish you will be fishing for would help also.

I think people don't know what they are getting into when they say " I am making a glide bait" Hands down it's the most temperamental bait to make!! the bait characteristics will change with elevation, temperature, line size, snaps, no snap, barometric pressure...and folks there are many more considerations that can/will effect a glide bait. I am not saying don't try to make a glide bait but get ready to be frustrated at almost every turn to get a decent glide bait and not a paper weight.

I personally fish inline blades the most and I can only speak for my own preference. size 4 blade should not weigh over .22 ounces (total weight ) or lose the thump of the blade. size 5 blade should not weigh over .28 ounces (total weight ) or lose the thump. this is not by any means written in stone but it works for me.

I think you are describing the blade report to the rod or lack of....One easy rule for spinners is the heavier the bait the bigger the blade... smaller line diameter will also help with the feel.

I am so glad that I am not the only person that Obsesses over each detail of weight and body...I am no where analytical as you but I have been Obsessing over snap-rings and hook sizes/styles for years now.. I am here to tell you with PVC baits it makes all the difference if you want to really crush them.

I have bent quite a few, as you are aware...you are creating a stress point at the area of the bend. I have had decent luck with doing this but have lost some very large fish due to failure at the stress point, so just know that anytime you do this failure is very possible.

You might want to listen to AZ Fisher, He does it all quite well.