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Everything posted by azsouth

  1. Pictures are up in the gallery for anyone who is interested in modifying your crank baits to hunt. 4th version in the pictures. I would be happy to answer any questions about them.
  2. At this point I am not to worried, working with one last person if this falls through it is going to be public anyways.
  3. Thanks for the replies everyone! just for more clarification my version has worked on Manns 1-, 1.5 and wiggle wart with a hunt that is about 3-6 inches sided to side, the only draw back at this time is the bait has to be tuned properly before adding modification. I am currently working on my 4th version of it. I intend on trying it with more baits but I only have so much time. Yes I sent to a company and I felt they were not doing much, so they are returning them.
  4. Just to explain better this is not just an idea, I have actual working prototypes and has worked on four different baits so far. I believe this will work on just about any crankbait.
  5. I have figured out how to get crank baits to hunt and have sent it to companies, but with no luck. So kind of at a cross roads here.... I do not have the money for a patent. So make it public or just sit on it? All comments welcome.
  6. When I get a master airbrush, the first thing I do is take the needle out and polish it with a super fine polish/cleaner wax. Put a small amount of super fine polish/cleaner wax on q-tip/cotton swab and polish it, till it feels super smooth. My .02
  7. lay side down then put something flat on other flat side measure distance between, half what the distance is your center easiest way to do it now is use an adjustable square, set it to the center measurement and put a pencil/pen and run it top and bottom. My .02
  8. Nice job! a lot of people don't want to spend the time or effort to make jigs but it is the way to go if you want to be able to copy a bait.
  9. Pin it with tooth picks or metal rods, I use tooth picks, drill 1/16" hole ...stick tooth pick in a cordless drill and wrap 180 grit or less sandpaper around tooth pick and sand until it fits snug. Tooth picks will swell tight in the water and are easy and cheap. Metal glue is usually needed not so with the picks. Addressing the tail issue, quick fix/quick redo.. just dip the part of the tail you want thicker in heated clear plastisol.
  10. It would help if you gave exacts, material used, size, weight placement, and overall weight with all hardware. Plowing generally indicates too much weight/size to bill size/angle of bill.
  11. I believe that will do well.
  12. section before the tail, fat if you want to effect the whole bait, skinny if you want just the tail to move without affecting the front of the bait. I personally use both depending on what the fish want.
  13. Any new design is going to have hiccups, Just remember to take good notes. Resin will make it easier to copy each bait exactly. Tail design can/will have a large impact on how the bait moves, thicker tail section has a tendency to move the whole bait while the thinner tail section has less whole body movement with more deliberate tail movement.
  14. Usually with shallow diving baits line tie is closer to the bill and deep diving further away. Keep in mind 1/8 difference makes a noticeable difference on how the plug reacts. Personally without knowing weight and buoyancy I would put it 1/8-1/4 away from bill. My .02
  15. azsouth

    Cedar Run

    yes sir, good place to buy.
  16. azsouth


    As everyone said, 6-4 size treble hooks
  17. I ( should ) always bring multiple lips to test, funny I have thought on previous builds that I had the bill dialed in....and not be dialed in and should of brought more styles of lips. A big part of this is understanding what effect each bill has on the bait
  18. My first pick would be a coffin bill, then triangle with 1/4" round points, Larger baits like that you could use 1/8 " Lexan or polycarbonate but it might not have the durability or just go with 3/16-1/4". Don't make the mistake of thinking that all plexiglass is the same!! Lexan and polycarbonate are at the higher end of the realm and better properties when dealing with Mother nature.
  19. Truly what sets the pros and non-boaters apart is tweaking the baits to get intended results. This is where it comes down to just changing hooks, snap rings to different size. Along with changing paint schemes. If I am throwing any mass produced bait, it is modified in some way shape or form.
  20. Not an easy question to answer, it will hinge on a few things just to start. 1. action you want to produce 2. single piece or jointed 3. size and weight of bait 4. buoyancy 5. depth you want to achieve. with the above info you can pick the style of lip and general lip placement. pictures with size and weight would allow a lot of insight and get more people to chime in.
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