azsouth

Wow looks great! any video of it working?

I build baits from scratch and I was also a Glazier, never have had a bill fall out! as a matter of fact I have broken baits trying to remove the bill that I installed. Vodkaman is right about scuffing the slot!! I personally use a 1/16 drill bit. 1. Prep bills by drilling approx 1/2 of thickness or a little less on both sides and stagger divots from opposite side. 2. Spread whatever adhesive you use on the bill making sure it is in the divots you drilled, doesn't take much. 3. Attach bill to lure and let dry for 24 hours. 4. Try to remove bill without breaking lure or the bill.

If lexan/polycarbonate bills aren't scuffed or scored in some way no real bond will happen. I use a 1/16 drill bit to put dimples in the material ( lexan/polycarbonate ) for grip for any adhesives I use and never had one fall out.

No problems on the second coat while following directions, but if you miss one of the instructions you have a neat paper weight. Some people ( including myself ) don't read and adhere to the instructions to the T and you will pay for it.

could not find the foil on the website.

I like the one above! any Information on where to buy it?

the deal is to know at what temperature the baits/foil can take....normal pvc baits get really pliable about 300 deg f but it depends on exact mixture.

Depends on the money you want to spend. Actual hot stamp machines with exact patterns for each bait are known to be the best way to set foil properly but most $$. I have done some foil with good and not so good results The other less money option is high temp silicone pads heated to cradle different baits. the other option is foil glue but does work well only on flat surface. My .02

I live in Arizona and still have some of those problems but easily fixed with stirring and mixing. Only after they sit for months at a time without use.

Welcome to TU! in my personal experience the heavier the bait the faster the retrieve to get the blade to spin then slow it back down to see at what speed you have to keep it at for blade rotation. the heavier baits will need larger blades, knowing exactly what you are building would really help, blades type, size, weight, wire size, beads, basically from end to end. pictures will help also.

I think we are missing the title guys....I have been around a while and have yet to see a 1 piece glide bait, that will actually do what 2 piece baits do! I am not saying it is impossible but you might want to take very good notes and Patent it.

are they splitting from the leading edges? from the solid yellow and solid orange? if so you probably need to round those corners just a bit.

80-120 feet will need to be solid baits, most pvc baits are not designed to take that pressure. 2.3-3.5 is a lot pressure.

I feel your pain!! I am on call 24/7/365.....nothing like working with the fogmind! oh and the headaches right behind the eyes is not fun either!

Welcome to the underground! This hobby will take you over fast if you don't check yourself.

Short strikes and rear hooks are usually from being to quick to set the hook, generally wait for the extra weight then set! Not watching what exactly is happening we are all guessing. My .02

let it soak over night, then use proper airbrush cleaning tools..... that will fix it. dried paint in the brush, hopefully all you spray is water-based or you might need a new brush.

I would not use the toluene it is bad stuff, especially spraying.....look up the MSDS on all those chemicals.

I got it from YouTube years ago and I have not had any problems, I can't remember who I got it from but he air brushed T-shirts for a living. all parts 1/3 for cleaner with a few drops of glycerin.

I use Windex, alcohol and distilled water for cleaner

It will help if you watch the video closely multiple times, your direction and pressure make all the difference.

This place was slow on shipping but came through... http://www.omfishingsinkers.com/

I have one with glitter but the problem that I ran into over and over is glitter will sink, so you have to stir to get it to suspend which adds fine bubbles to your finish which in turn you have to dip 2 more times to get a good smooth finish. Not to mention sanding between glitter coat and finish coat. My .02

I was a glazier, so for me it is not that difficult do....do what works for you.

Table saw to set the height, chop saw to set the width and angles... belt sander to knock of edges or modify. bandsaw and scroll saws don't cut good lines and usually need a lot more time on the sander.