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DoubleT last won the day on August 23 2018

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  1. I gave the syringe method a shot. I tried it with Devcon 2 ton. I used a 16 gauge needle which was the biggest that I could find. It worked decent until the epoxy started to thicken. It was a nightmare after that. I think I was able to get the epoxy in about 6 holes before it quit working. I went back to my old method.
  2. Great info. Thank you sir.
  3. Thank you for the input folks.
  4. Thank you Ben. That's the info I was looking for. Does the syringe that you are using have the black silicone seal?
  5. Thanks Hillbilly. Good info.
  6. Very good info. Thanks AZ. I will likely stay with my original method. I use the D2T 30 min as well. Good stuff.
  7. Thanks Mark. How much time do you have to align the screw eyes. That's my only reservation with using super glue. Plus the screws are 1.5" long.
  8. Thanks BobP for your thoughts. I'm not necessarily concerned with the screw eyes coming out of the lure. The screw eyes would likely wring off before screwing out. I have seen some testing on that. I was just curious if folks had a different way to apply the epoxy and get it into the bottom of the holes with something other than a piece of wire. The wire may likely be the best/most used method though,
  9. I have a question for you guys working with wood. I make musky baits out of cedar. What method works best for getting two part epoxy down in the bottom of the screw eye holes? I have been poking it down in the hole with a piece of wire which works but there has to be a better way. I would like to try disposable syringes/pipettes or something along those lines. Just wanted your thoughts and curious as to which method works best for you. I tried the search option but didn't find anything specific. Thanks guys.
  10. It does really well. They offer two different lengths. The longer one works great for a 5 gallon bucket. The other thing that I really like about it is the paddles are made of very rigid plastic. It really does well at breaking up any hard packed material while not tearing up the bottom of the plastic bucket. Im sure there are other really good ones out there but I cant say anything negative about this one at all.
  11. This is the one that I use. Works like a dream and less than 8 dollars at Lowes.
  12. I just leave mine in the five gallon bucket. When I need some plastisol, I mix it with a paint mixer and a cordless drill while being sure to scrape the bottom good. I then get the amount that I need with a measuring cup. I originally transferred the 5 gallon bucket to gallon jugs but found out quickly that breaking up hard packed material in the bottom of a gallon jug through a 1 inch opening wasn't much fun. I cut the tops off of the jugs, stirred the packed material back into suspension and poured them all back into the 5 gallon bucket. Not a ounce of trouble since.
  13. I am relatively new at building soft plastic baits. I make large (13 ounces of plastisol) musky baits. The plastic that I used initially didn't hard pack at all and I loved that aspect of it. The problem that I experienced with it was making repairs and paint adhesion. The manufacturer of that particular plastisol adds something to the plastic that makes it constantly exude oil. No matter how much I washed it prior to paint I always had some paint adhesion problems. Also, you can forget making repairs to torn baits. I tried several different adhesives and never had any luck. If anyone is awar
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