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MEL

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Everything posted by MEL

  1. Interesting -- I have always used lure craft softener and never gave it another thought. Seems to not be a problem. MEL
  2. Artist oil paint are concentrated pigments and quite compatable with plastisol
  3. Maybe the clue is strip along the back. If the stripe was made with a marking pen the color will slowly migrate through the plastic as marking pens are dyes
  4. I use a hot glue gun. Cut the black plastisol into small chunks and fill glue gun cavity. Use a dowel to force the the black plastisol out of the gun.
  5. MEL

    Teflon

    My 30 year old stirring sticks are teflon. You can leave them in the pyrex while heating in the microwave.
  6. All of the artist OIL paints that I have tried work well with the plastisol. They are pigments so don't bleed. One of the problems is measuring volume from a OIL paint tube to replicate a new batch of plastic. The paints are well concentrated and the volumes can be quite small. I made a tool from 1/2 x1/8 aluminum stock with a series of holes drilled. You squeeze a hole full- wipe it flush and stir it into the plastisol. Heating the plastisol too just below the jell state helps to clear the hole.
  7. You are right my ox blood is older than 10 years maybe 20. I had recently finished the new mold and decided to try this color fo the first time. Maybe the kelp bass will have the final say --- if the virus lets us fish again.
  8. The M-F chartreuse florescent glitter is not shiny and fits your description .
  9. Try M-F fluorescent glitters.
  10. I would drill 2 small vent holes [#58] on either side near the end of the tail. They may have to be cleared with a wire after each injection. MEL
  11. Do not forget for the same size injection hole the injection pressure goes up as the square. Long and skinny cools faster. MEL
  12. Maybe every one does this but I always add 6-8 marbles to the bottle to help stir.
  13. MEL

    Olive Oil

    Since oil does not dissolve in water it can't disperse and attract fish - maybe one should consider something that dissolves in water and forget the oil base.
  14. MORE ON MOLD MAKING To make a mold one has to have something to mold. Most all of my bait designs were to make a bait that fits one of the Do-It leaded molds. I start with two pieces of 0.032 brass shim stock. These are fastened togeather with double sided cellophane tape. The outline of the bait is then sawed, filed , etc. your satisfaction. The body of the bait are then made up of 1/32 strips of basswood glued together to the thickness required. Each 1/32 strip is coated with a color before gluing. This will facilitate shaping the body. When the body is finished The model is then separated into the two halves and mounted into the cavity. Sprues are the added and your are ready to mold. Most of my molds are made with polyurethane resin [ RC-3, VAC50, specialty resin.com]. I usually make a dozen bait molds of each design. This only a hobby for me and I don't sell baits. Usually make baits 2 or 3 times a year or as required.
  15. GO FOR IT. I HAVE BEEN DOING IT FOR 25 YEARS +. ALUMILITE REGULAR WORKS FINE
  16. MEL

    hexwrapa.jpg

    American Tackle blank---- AMMBB 844-B
  17. Mold material: Alumilite RC-3 Designed for 1oz Do- it shad mold.
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