whitaker201
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Everything posted by whitaker201
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A couple things I find helpful: 1. a bigger eye 2. drip wire 3. blow out excess from the eye with an airbrush at a low pressure 4. trim up with a knife two days after dipping, before the KBS gets really hard
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Injection Molded Hard Baits - Thermo Plastic Choices
whitaker201 replied to CNC Molds N Stuff's topic in Hard Baits
I can't help you with the plastic choices but good luck on your endeavor! -
I use both Createx paints and KBS diamond coat
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Sorry, forgot to mention I use it for bass lures.
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I use 3 coats dipping it. I do use an airbrush to blow out the build up on the bottom eye and put a hanger in the eye for it to drip off of. I wait about 2 hours between coats. In the winter it takes much longer for it to cure.
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I make my first loop with round nose pliers. Then I have a jig to make the rest of the bends.
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That is unique!
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Mason jar with wax paper to keep the threads clean. I also add a little shot of Bloxygen.
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- clear coat
- kbs
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Agreed! AWESOME idea on the cup washers!
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Always enjoy and learn from your posts VM. I do not post much but I have picked up a ton of valuable info from this forum. I wish I was able to contribute more but most of y'all have way more experience then me. I am always tinkering with new designs I want to create.
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Cool project for you both. Keep us updated on your progress!
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Lots of great suggestions already! Take lots of notes on the lures during the build process. This will allow you to know what worked and what didn't when you go to test a new design.
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Looks great! -
15680022393187315754493391325010.jpg
whitaker201 commented on McDerpface's gallery image in Hard Baits
Good looking design! You could see if there is a way to "cure" the PLA to make it harder. -
Bassfisher1 you make some nice looking baits! Slick design JRammit!
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Great work Mark!
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Ravenlures - I try to do 20-40 lures at a time. I found that spreading the epoxy on a cold piece of aluminum lets me get around 15-20 bills set before the epoxy is not usable. Of course I have became a little more efficient over time too. What I do is set my aluminum bar on an ice pack for about 5min before mixing the epoxy. Then set the bar on my work bench and mix the epoxy on the cold bar. Spread epoxy around and start installing bills. Barrybaits - I will check that stuff out as another option. It is always good to have options!
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Look into Fusion 360 (Autodesk product) I think it is still free for individual use. There are also tons of videos on using Fusion 360 on Youtube and Instructables. With the scan data you are going to get a triangle mesh file. It will need to be converted into a surface or solid model before you can edit it.
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What would you do? I would not be able to keep up with that demand so I would either have to decline the order or look for ways to ramp up production. Have you ever thought about it? I have not thought about it enough to have a plan. What numbers could you achieve as a one man operation? I am not sure yet. I am always trying to be more efficient and keep quality where I want it. Right now it is only my wife and I working on our lure business part time since we both have full time jobs. I haven't really did a time study that is accurate yet.
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Not without sealing the holes you made in the stencil. I haven't tried it but you might be able to cut the stencil. Cover the stencil with electrical tape. Then vacuum form. It might work, it might not. If you try it let us know what the results are.
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I use a MCU clear for my top coat and I wait 1 to 2 days after painting to clear coat. I use Createx paints.
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I'm watching this! Tons of great info. Thank you Dave and Mark!
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Oh man! I must have missed it.
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This is what stencils are for......at least that's how I do them. I am not as talented as some are with an airbrush.
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Like BBK I let my lures dry a day or two before clearing with KBS.
