Hillbilly voodoo
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Posts posted by Hillbilly voodoo
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23 minutes ago, aulrich said:
The down side is the short duty cycle, according to the internet somewhere around 25 castings, but for personal use and prototyping that is OK. I was really please that I did not damage the mold master I can always print another but it's nice to get more than one use out of parts.
It will at least give me an idea if I want to resort to molding my own weights or push hard to source them in bulk
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8 minutes ago, aulrich said:
No, the 3d printed part is the mold for the mold. The lead is poured into Smooth-ON Mold Max 60.
Mind you you could possibly do pewter in some resin 3d prints, one resin I have can handle 400f.
think of the printed part as a split master and mold box in one
Ok
I need to head into Edmonton on my days off for another big bucket of mold max 30 anyway so I think I will test out a small amount of mold max 60 for a lead mold
kinda went crazy in the last 2 weeks and have a handful of prototype jerk baits to mold so might as well try a lead mold well I am at it
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2 minutes ago, aulrich said:
Got my first casting of the proto
type and it seems to have worked, I do need to test.
So let’s make sure I got this right that is a 3D printed mold that can handle hot lead?
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3 hours ago, CNC Molds N Stuff said:
You know I would love to see some of your completed baits. Either here in the gallery or in email if prefer not to make them public.
Two more clear coats to go and 5 nightshifts before the will be finished. The hassle of toothy fish is a five day clear coat process
Once they are done I will make a pic or two of all 3 options. Maybe some video of the action if I can find some clear water and no wind. The body moves differently with each tail even
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53 minutes ago, CNC Molds N Stuff said:
Sorry, for the time it takes for customs. Its not just that I am busy, which I usually am, but also that I am a one man shop and things happen. Not the least of which is that because my CNC shop is next to my house "people" do not always respect my work/home boundaries. Both ways.
When I first started I tried to be the, "fast turn around custom guy," but for me it just didn't turn out to be possible. Now I just keep working my way down the list and I keep adding jobs to the end of the list.Thank you very much for the mention.
I was only honest and thanks again for the molds. That project has taken a major change since the original pic you seen. I downsized the body so it fits all three tails nicer, casts nicer and gets better action. Everything moves as it should too. First 4 pretty versions are being clear coat right now.No need to apologize about the time it takes and just keep doing as you are doing. Honest service and good end product is more important than fast turnaround in my opinion
We will likely talk in the new year as I am thinking big aggressive paddle tail for my 2024 musky trip. Starting from scratch on this one as it will be a different body
The original will be my “finesse” bait
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And here I thought availability issues were a Canadian problem lol
I think I am going to hold back on the Tan if I can get white in a reasonable time. Unfortunately I can’t even get a small quantity as for a Tan tester locally or I would. Stuck ordering from across the country and shipping sucks
Thanks for sharing your experience
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So I assume your friend has no issues with Tan. May I ask what his reasoning was to prefer Tan over white?
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1 hour ago, Flaswimbaiter said:
I started with white, then switch to tan from a recommendation of a friend and went back to white. I had to many issues with tan, baits didn’t cure and a lot of air bubbles. Since I switched back to white, I have had very few problems. But I want to make it clear that could have been user error. :-/
I remember your post regarding curing sounds like your problem didn’t stop
what do you mean by make it clear?
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Ok hope someone has had experience with both products and can tell me if the experienced any difference between
I have been using Alumilite white and do to availability issues I experience at times I am considering my options of substituting with Tan
Spec wise it look like it will have minimal or no impact on recipes and strength.
May just need to say screw it and start ordering 80gal at a time to avoid issues
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57 minutes ago, aulrich said:
Hillbilly at some point I will need to get your CNC contact from you.
Do you do your own CAD work or does your CNC contact do it.
I need to start learning designing with standard machining in mind I can get away with different things 3d printing. For my proto typing I print a mold of a mold. Buy high temp silicon has a very limited lifetime (20 castings ish according to the internet) When I finalize the shape I will want a proper mold so I need to start out with the ultimate end goal in mind
He is a member of the forum “CNC molds N stuff”. He has been a great guy to deal with and has been very helpful. I just provided the design (we did make tweaks through discussion too) and he took care of the computer work.
The one thing to remember is it is custom work and he does not do knockoffs(big respect from me for having this rule). You also need to be patient as it takes time and will not be fast as he is busy. I just respect that it’s custom work and he does a good job with the mindset it will be done when it’s done
Bob has my recommendation anytime as he is straight forward and has been honest 2 traits that go a long ways in my books
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Only looking for a proper mold or I will make one or have one made
I am debating another custom soft plastic mold so may have to add this if I do
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Oh those would be great for soft plastics but I need these weights for a hybrid bait and dive & rise jerk baits
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Not a corckscrew it’s a bolt
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Here is what I am looking for. They tread into a brass insert installed in a hard bait
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Before I resort to making one does anyone know if there is a mold available for screw in lead belly weights?The weights commonly used for suicks and phantoms
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No problem
With lure building it’s often just a matter of tweaking a few things till it’s right and sometimes it doesn’t take much
If you screw up and adjust enough lure building each design gets easier. I only know how to fix things because I screwed up lots and didn’t give up lol
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5 minutes ago, acexx33 said:
I'll try all that, thanks for the replies and help!
No worries and if you’re lure blows out with theses changes slowly file your lip shorter till it stabilizes. After that you can measure the lip and know exactly what you need if you want to duplicate that lure
good luck
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The fact you are showing a willingness to experiment and test theories I will give you some respect right away. You will learn more than those who just want to be told how to build a lure because of it
For the reason above feel free to pick my brain till you get this figured out.
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1 minute ago, acexx33 said:
The one on the table was the last one I tried out last night when I decided I might just be noob over looking something silly. So I came hear because it's been pretty informative. I've found the middle lead placement is the most stable placement. I tried to two extremes with closes to the head then closest to the tail to see what happen ( new to bait making lol). So far lead placement has been my biggest struggle in developing a new design. Ill tinker with line tie placement and see what happens. If that don't work my next guess is lip angle? Or maybe on to the next until I figure out what I'm doing with myself haha
If it was in my hands I would have it working in 5 minutes but I lost count of how many different designs I have made years ago lol
I have made baits similar to your design. Weighted them just behind the front hook. The angle you have on your lip will promote a wide swing no need to change it. Ideally I would personally put the line tie in the lip so it’s under the nose but clear enough to easily clip on(I run leaders because of what I target) without issue. Like I mentioned a lip wider than the body. A coffin style lip likely the length of the one on the 3rd bait would give you something nice
It’s just a matter of tweaking things and learning. In time you will just know lol
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I also would start with a line tie change. Either move it to the underside of the nose closer to the lip or install it in the lip itself
When weighting your jerk bait keep it towards the front hook hanger. You want to keep the rear of the lure light so it’s easier to swing
That wider square lip laying on the table in your pic would be the best choice of the 3 I see. I like to make sure my lip is wider than the body
hope that helps
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So basically a weighted external swimbait rig like used in Europe
if I was making my own with prefabricated cork screws I would look at the options dink master posted a link for and mod them. Likely the best you will find and I looked hard for different purposes
Other options look into ordering screw in weighted head from Europe in larger quantities. I have not seen them available in Canada or North America even but they exist
I run my own version of an external rig same function different construction/materials for un rigged large swimbaits. They do work especially when it’s 8inch plus baits. It’s just not popular in North America
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14 minutes ago, aulrich said:
I trying to build a bit of a side hustle so I would rather use pre-fab parts, the do-it ones are ok. What I mean by OK is that I have only lost one bait to the screw pulling out of the bait body . I was hoping to find a slightly bigger diameter screw, but I can continue with the do-it screws. At .09$cad per its hard to justify home made.
I don’t know the weight, size or drag created by the soft plastic you’re attaching but nothing I could find prefabricated would hold up for my hybrids
I use the small keepers for some of my jerk baits
What size roughly do you need?
corkscrew only or do you need a pin?
casting it into the head or attached with a loop?
I looked for all kinds when I started my hybrid project so might be able to figure something out
Good luck on your side gig. If I knew what you were working with I might be able to see if it would fit for my customers
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Why not just make them?
I make the ones I use on my hybrid baits
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2 hours ago, FERG DADDY said:
Anyone know a cost comparison between True Coat versus multiple coats of KBS?
Do you mask your lips when you dip them? That sounds like a funny question, but I’m sure you know what I mean.
I don’t know the cost comparison as I haven’t used true coat so can’t speak there
I do make larger lures for pike and sometimes musky. One thing I can tell you is it would not be worth dipping because of the amount of KBS you would need. Brushing on is a better in the case of larger lures. Also with KBS thin coats are best so you have more control brushing it on. I don’t thin KBS when brushing it on but I have heard guys who dip often thin KBS.
Honestly the two are very different products and will give you a completely different look too. The thickness of your coat final finish will be very different too. The equipment/products needed is very different for use and storage
One thing no has mentioned is KBS is a harsher chemical and I wear a respirator when applying it. Also it has a strong smell before it is fully cured
In my opinion they are so different with positives and negatives that I highly recommend looking into all aspects of both products before deciding which is the right fit for you
my opinion both are good but very different
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Scents and bait sauces
in Soft Plastics
Posted
Scent definitely plays a role with a lot of species and not just bottom feeders
Some species like northern pike are definitely more visual though. I wouldn’t even bother with sent here
Outside of bottom feeders bass, walleye, salmon and trout are 3 I have definitely seen scent make a difference. This is with slower presentation usually