Hillbilly voodoo

Check out maple airbrush supplies in Edmonton they will likely have restorer and they have good prices

Weight choice has a lot to do with goals related to action, rate of rise/neutral pause, and stability at higher speeds as well As with many things when building hard baits there is no set answer but instead it’s a matter of finding the correct combination factors to achieve the action you have in mind Personally I have built enough baits I can make a really good guess or even design a bait where I plan to use no ballast at all. But float testing a lure is a really good way to figure out a good ballast weight. Or as I have mentioned in past threads tape or elastic band your ballast to your un finished but sealed lure and give it a test run. Try different ballast weights till you get what you are looking for

I also drilled small holes through the lip at least 4. I have not had any lips fail with this method. I used some cheap 4hr epoxy from the hardware store that was recommended for marine use I have never had issues with the above method but I did have lips pull that I epoxied that were just scuffed with corse sandpaper

I would be checking line tie first Next float it in a clear container of water and check if it’s properly balanced odds one of the above is the issue

So far the process has been positive

Just sent a concept drawing to Cncmolds from the forum to get his opinion/quote

Not too keen on risking money in the Ukraine with the war is cncmold.com the member cnc molds and stuff on the forum?

I am looking for recommendations on who to use for a custom cnc aluminum mold I am not looking for fast or cheap. I want someone who is fair, good customer service, and can provide a good end product. Completely understand it costs more then buying existing molds Yes I realize there is diy options like silicon and plaster but I want aluminum injection If it’s a struggle to even get communication out of them I have no interest in doing business with them. I don’t play games and stick to my word all I ask is the same Good customer service is a must !!!

Thank you sir now I just need to order some supplies and fake it

Any glue recommendations or is any waterproof epoxy good? for shaping the the cork to blend the new piece to the old are you just using sand paper? complete rookie to this so dumb questions probably

Less than 1-1/2inch of the blank is exposed

First off I am not a rod builder and have no experience with this stuff The cork butt broke off my new pike rod and warranty would take too long to fix it. I don’t think this is normal but there was a hollow gap between the end of the blank and cork butt. This was extremely weak caused the cork to break off first day is it possible to replace just the end of the handle with a new fighting butt or does the whole grip need to be replaced? should the cork butt be tight to the blank like I assume? advice on materials or how you would approach this repair would be much appreciated Pic of damage

Availability and shipping costs make solarez a no go for me Alumilite uv resin seems good just needed to figure out this one issue. It cuts down build time nicely every clear coat I have used takes a few tries to work out the quirks so I am not worried

Thank was supposed to be the thanks not laugh emoji thing fat fingers

Thank you sir figured you would have the answer I was looking for

I have some baits with single coats and poorly done 2 coats I am taking for pike in northern Saskatchewan so the durability will get tested Was hoping for someone with first hand experience doing multiple coats of alumilite uv to chime in. But if there is no response by the time I get back from my trip I will just test things myself

I assume this is the process you are using with alumilite uv ?

So finally found a good source for uv clear so decided to give it a try I have had two small batches with the same issue. First coat goes on perfect but second adheres blotchy Well researching issues I seen mention that it drys too slick is why the second coat is not adhering properly. But I didn’t find any information on the correct process for applying multiple coats. I am thinking lite scuffing with fine sandpaper might do it but figured I would ask here first So what what method have you used successfully to apply multiple coats? @Anglinarcher where are you as I have a feeling you have the answer I seek

Well I did some experimenting with the advice and got the problem solved Reducing hold time to 10 seconds and lower the temp on the mold itself did the trick thanks

Any time I have had people get impressed by the lures I paint I tell them I am a slob compared to some of the builders out there

The last part of your comment is bang on. Personally I have had good luck with bass running really slow but when it comes to trout and coho salmon a fast spinning blade swung slowly through a river is king Just like all lure fishing you need to try different retrieves till you find what they want and it can change depending on temperature or other conditions As for the original post have you tested it yet? Personally I could see it interrupting the spinning of the blade do to it making contact with the bead. Small metal beads on the outside of the clevis top and bottom is definitely the proven way to achieve a good spin If it causes the blade to stutter you might get a click sound of the bead and blade making contact. This might be something useful test it and let’s hear the feedback

I did warm the laminating block but not the injector I did not get to try your advice before having to go beck to work for a set. But I will on my next 5 off

I still use belt and drum sanders but like my rasp for the final shaping before sanding. Even on small 1 1/2 trout lures Maybe I am just strange and have been doing it this way so long it just feels right. It has definitely become efficient for me 4) well it’s great that there is YouTube as resource for people to learn but some definitely need to expand beyond it In the whatever works and gets the job done is the right tool in my opinion