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Tuna

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Tuna last won the day on May 5 2018

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  1. Looking for the Twistech. Already have some nice Knipex round points. Want to do spinners that are more uniform.
  2. Where can you buy a Twistech 11037? Sites I found are out of stock.
  3. Yeah, Carolina rig, kind of a search bait w/glass bead clackers. Attached is the dbl. #3 .032 bladed spinner with a rivet that worked well. I superglued the cone ends of the worm weights together. Skirt even pulsed a bit. Tied it onto a 12" x #8 fluoro leader with swivel today. Very little twist. Going to try the mingled clevis' on the next version.
  4. Found Worth solid brass beads in nickel and brass. Many other spinner parts. Chuckanddeb.com. Not sure if they're a registered vendor but top service and great pricing. Sent a message to have them check out TU forums. Have been buying from them for years. They will credit you back if honest shipping rate is less than charged.
  5. Wow JD, a Shyster! Always had one in my river shore box along with a tandem spinner and floating rapala. That's when I used a light brown wonderod (since redone with Minima guides, KR spacing) paired with a green south bend closed face spinning reel. Now I pack one 3400 series with a couple craw colored bombers, small chrome/blue rat-l-trap, Baker 3" rip bait, 1/4oz all black Cavitron, 1/4oz dark bladed/rootbeer-green flake trailer chatterbait, #2 and #3 Mepps and 1/16oz jigheads and twister tails in motor oil or black body and clear chartreuse tails. I always take a float for suspension using a pendulum/rocker retrieve for slow current or backwaters. Like the hybrid spinnerbait, reminds me of beetle-spins. Found out yesterday that 3/16" bullet weights hollow lead wire will match the length and weight of Jann's #71 and #82 spinner body parts. What do you use or purchase for the bearing beads? Searched for solid brass/small hole beads without many hits. Oh, also found out that a small oval hematite bead matches length and weight of #80 but unsure how they would hold up vs. metal.
  6. For AZsouth: slow rolling works well! You know what works better for me though? Fishing a 4.5" - 5" paddletail like a jig or a worm and making it dance a couple times during the fall. #4/0 - #5/0 3/32oz or 1/8oz keel weighted swimbait hook. If they tear out the keeper I just bite off the damaged area and re-insert. The absolute best PT I've used is Bitter's baits. I've tried many. Keitech too prone to tearing. Slow kick with parallel fall. Bam! Heck, in Iowa we have (sad to say) large algae matts on some small lakes. I fish the PT like a topwater frog with much greater hookup ratio. Even from shore I throw over the edges of the matt. On retrieve, once the bait makes it to the edge I pop it lightly to tease the lookers. Bam! A PT or senko is my usual follow-up baits if bass are short striking buzzbaits or ploppers. More times than not I've out fished the guy at front as the co-angler if they aren't hogging shoreline. PB LMB #6.57, SMB #4.97 and a flathead #7.63 using an UL with a Mepps #0, #6 mono river fishing. Memories... Fished Apache, Roosevelt and Havasu years ago with a then favorite AG 2600 round.
  7. You're a wealth of information JD-mb. I enjoy reading you're responses. Last week I tied a bunch of fluorescent yellow (chart) craft fur trebles. Yesterday, I tested out 10 spinner versions. Craft fur remains wet a long time versus squirrel tail. Caught two bass less than a foot on the color combo; gold blade, black body, chart fur tied with black thread in stained water. Have always done well with black or black grape head and thread/chart tail/fur jigs. Have to find some chart ST or try lure dye to dip them. Won't be going craft fur again. Think I'll just use natural furs, water resistant synthetics or fine skirt materials. Since dressed trebles add drag and therefore effect blade rotation I'll have to try something different for open bodies of water. The rivet spinners were a fail. The dbl. blade s-clevis spinner with 1/2 oz. weight (2-1/4oz worm weights superglued together at the large ends) and dressed #4 treble ran well but needs a swivel at a leader to braid connection or maybe upsize to a #2 VMC 9651bz I have many of. I had to open the holes of the #3 blade so the flattened ends of the s-clevis would insert. Liked the surface wake it made. I'll do a version using a single siwash or a blue #3 or #4 sproat hook. I have the blue sproat from when I learned how to worm fish back in old 2. For bodies I'll try some 3/16' hollow lead wire instead of the kind of pricey brass or nickel bodies. Seems the worm sinkers worked well although a bit too end heavy. Maybe a keel style sinker would work but unsure if available separately. Also going to try a bead on the clevis under the blade and a 8mm eye left over from a bunch of rat-l-traps I made a few years back adhered to the underside of the blade. Heck, how about two spaced black dots on the blade to simulate the bands of a perch once in rotation?? Uh oh, looks like I may have to make a linked excel recipe book to keep track of tries. Tuna
  8. Azsouth, have you determined a weight ratio blade : weight? JD_mudbug, thanks for the info. Appreciate the information in your reply. Have you made any double inline spinners, using size 2, 3 or 4 french blades with enough drag to be a near surface lure? What about hook size for spinner weight balancing? Making all the size 2 and 3 with .032 because I have a bunch of these shafts on hand. Plan to make #4's and doubles with .039 shafts. I'm also experimenting with incorporating a buzzbait rivet pinched to shaft and riding against the clevis to cause a sweak vs. a bearing. Agree Mark with the use of BN trebles but like the looks of bronze and have a bunch left over from crank making.
  9. Fished a river the other day. Had the most success by far using a #4 Mepps dressed Aglia. Combo: baitcast, 6' medium/fast, #15 braid with a 12" x #8 fluoro leader joined with a small swivel. Retrieved sweeping the current. After losing a couple #4's (if you're not losing some you're likely not fishing them right). I want to make my own if possible. Researched a bit. Most french blades are .025" vs .032'? I would assume most online suppliers are selling the .025". I did find a site selling .032". Mepps using .032" on their #3 gold blade. Trout/salmon fisherman swear by the thicker blades especially in the #0 and #1 sizes. Better throb, stay down in faster water and rotate easier in slow water. Talking bass, so #2 (1/8oz), #3 (1/6oz) and #4 (1/3oz) french blade inline spinners, have you tried the thicker blades? Measured a Mepps #3 blade, .032". Pictured is a repurposed #2 with a tied craft fur treble. Bunch of questions: What thickness of blade are you using? Dressed treble or not? Best dressing material? What about craft fur smalljaw? Pear shaped clevis or common stirrup? .030" shaft for #3 and larger? Silver or gold blade? On a popular bass forum the guys seem to favor silver and undressed. Many reasons; cost, effectiveness and dressed treble prone to treble rust since they don't dry out very well. Welcome any comments. Thanks.
  10. Sorry for the delay, for some reason I didn't get notification of replies to my post. The red of the eyeball is is just under 11/16" so about 17mm. Darn good guess. Probably an educated one, right?
  11. This fish was caught using a regular sized Rebel Craw, gold back (molting) in August of 1990. That's why I entered this into "Hard Baits". Took my two sons wading in a river I know well in NE IA. They were only 9 and 7 years old. To prevent complaining we all used Zebco 33's mounted on some light casting rods. We were all throwing the rebel. When I hooked it I thought I may have snagged a carp. Whoa! Got so excited I didn't trust the drag and backed out of the river onto the shore to land the fish. Using a Zebco De-liar it scaled slightly over #5. The fish was mounted on Tennessee driftwood by a well-known taxidermist in eastern Iowa. This isn't a foam body. Hell, it was my first big mountable fish so I didn't think about that. The fish resided in a deep frezer for about a month prior to mounting. I took it off the wall for an annual cleaning and now looks like the day it came out of the water. A question for the guys: what is the diameter (mm) of the eyes on a #5 smallmouth?
  12. Totally agree with Cuda, unpainted (dulled) is the way to go. Most open water walleye guys I know fish unpainted. Guess they've done their testing and have found the difference unworthy of separating colors in their boxes. Heck, 90% of the crappie, gill and bass jigs I use are also unpainted. It's about technique and not head color. I don't worry about line color either. Use a black sharpie to coat hi-vis braided lines for the first few feet. Hi-vis lines important for me to detect pick-ups while drop-shotting. I do something different for hard water season. All my jigs are coated with my favorite Sally Hanson nail polish. I use 1/32, 1/48, 1/64 and 1/80. All lead heads. Not convinced that tungsten makes a difference if size of catch. Lead heads take more patience to fish due to the slower drop speed. The differences are ability to work the bounce slower (natural speed for cold water) and the greater number of fish picked up during the drop vs. tungsten which drops fast and passes fish along the way.
  13. Have to add to this. I've been thinning D2T with isopropyl alcohol, not same luck with denatured. have coated 800+ plastic body lures during past 3 winters. I apply with a 5mil latex glove using my index finger only. i apply a bit of pressure to keep the coating thin and causes the scales to reveal. No failures that I am aware of. Here's a MB Vision 95mm KO I did a couple years back. Blue-back golden shiner. Great rip bait!
  14. The orange color and whining wouldn't work for me. Might be why they've been deeply discounted during the past 6 months. Not so long ago the Kastking Speed Demon was the rage. Good luck!
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