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Howdy! Is there a chart of any kind to suggest approximate arm lengths for different size spinnerbaits. I'm using a Do-it mold for 1oz spinnerbaits. The 1oz body is pretty long. When getting the hookeye/ form connection in the thick part of the mold, the resulting exposed hook seems short. If I move the hook back, the arm in front of the body seems short. I'm using a .40 wire form with a 2" hook arm and a 2.5 blade arm. I can't find much discussion on arm lengths anywhere. Blades, skirts, hooks, even wire thickness has lots of info but nothing on arm lengths. The catalogs seem to offer their opinions, but not much on 1 ounce baits. Thanks for any thoughts.

What was the name of the parts house in New Jersey that became Mudhole. Anyone old enough to recall?

Hello! I recently bought some fly tying supplies at a garage sale. It included several packages of something called Swannundaze. I'm not familiar with this. Any experts know what it is used for? Thanks!

Built quite a few rods but stepped away about 10 years ago. Retired now and I just built my last Sevier blank. I can't seem to find them anywhere. They were decent blanks at a decent price and I liked the rootbeer colored finish. Are they still in business?

Hi! I spent some time redoing my Dad's rods too. Changed guides & refinished blank. Scrubbed the great old cork and rod looks like new. Amazing those whip things ever caught a fish but they did. I still use one now and then with bait. Dad is always in the boat with me. Good luck!

Yep, the blade on the clevis is backward.

Hey everybody, poured a bunch of midwest finese jigs and almost everyone had the head wobble on the hook after cooling. While powder painting mitigates some of this, it's just not right. Especially bad on the smaller sizes. It seems the act of removing the head from the mold loosens up the jighead. Will waiting longer to remove the pour help? Big time waster if that is the only solution. Anybody else experience this?

Hey guys! Who has a great way to clean powder paint off the teflon inserts? I've been scraping it off and after many uses, it changes the diameter of the insert, resulting in too small a hole. Ideas? Thanks!

I use several different hooks in my do-it Ned head mold. They are all slightly different gauges and eye sizes. I get lots of flash around the eye. I've tried to solve this with plumbers putty with little success. I've heard some use RTV silicone. What is the technique for doing this and can it be temporary and done over again and again? Thanks!

Just a shout out to Barlow's Tackle. No fault of theirs but they sent me drop shot swivels to replace my bad ones, unsolicited. Real customer service. Thanks Matt!

Flashabou does have a color that is silver and clear strips. I think it is called "angel " something.

Getting ready to make my 1st batch of Ripper baits from a do it mold. As these mimic a Keitech, will there be an issue with keeping them straight without them taking a crooked set? I'm assuming that is why Keitech sells their baits in the clam shell. Any of you have experience making the Ripper baits yet? Thanks!

When you get one, you'll decide yes it was necessary. I like a ceramic tube or flared end brass bobbin. Does not have to be expensive. I tie larger flies with 210 denier thread. Finer thread may require a better bobbin.

Having poured hundreds of drop shot sinkers this winter, I would get an occasional swivel that would not spin. My last order of swivels, (Do It brand from Barlow's) put the failure rate up to 15%. Really made for a long pour session and wasted $$. They just would not spin. I've used less expensive swivels from Ebay but they seemed slightly smaller. Anyone else noticed an increase in "bad" swivels?

Hi guys. I'm looking for a longer shank hook similar to EC 570. Someone suggested a L2831 hook would work but I can't find anyone who carries them. (Capt.. Hook, LPO,Barlows etc.) Any ideas? I can find the EC 574 but I wanted a heavier hook. Thanks!