Anyfish

I'm curious what you use to thin the folkart paints. I've tried a few times and have had mixed results, with none being what I would call good.

More of a request, but I'd be interested in seeing what you have. If you want to PM a list or post here, I'd be happy to make an offer on some, part, or a lot of it.

The original post is several years old, so you may not get many responses. There are probably 1000s of videos and articles that you could read and get different information. My suggestion is to start out small. Pick a few colors you think are good and give it a go. Some suppliers sell starting kits of paint, that include a handful of colors at a lower price. The paints are lower volume, so overall you will want to expand and buy other paints someplace. Check out barlows, lureparts on line, etc. Do It Molds created a bunch of videos for those starting out that may be of helpful. They cover various topics. If it helps, here is a link. https://store.do-itmolds.com/how-we-do-it-finishing-and-paint-videos Hope it helps.

Not sure Les. I may have to give it a try just to see. I'm sure you'll figure it out.

Hi Les. I previously saw someone say a 12-penny coated sinker nail, remove the point and sharp edges and clean it in some lacquer thinner to take the coating off and have fun. I haven't tried it, but it may work. Have fun.

I have mutiples of the AI 4" version (makes 4 baits) and the skirt mold (makes 2 skirts) that goes with it to make hula grubs. If you are interested in a set at a decent price, send me a PM.

I haven't tied large inline spinners but I have tied a lot of streamers of various sizes. I find it doesn't move like bucktail, goat or similar. I usually use it in combo with other hairs. I would guess the run depth would be more related to weight of the spinner and not the hair. I have never had an issue tying it down. I just secure it and use head cement or nail polish on the thread. I haven't used it for pike or muskie but don't know why it wouldn't work. Hope it helps.

It is a nice mold. I liked it so much I bought two for a project and now don't need the 2nd one as much. To answer the OP, I do have a few stone molds and they work well too. I think it took about 6wks or so for mine to arrive.

I have an Angling AI 4" Heart Throb Grub mold if you have any interest in it. If you have any interest, drop me a PM and we can probably figure something out.

Sent you a PM.

Not sure about selling or patent issues, but I use Do Its Pro Swim Jig mold for making them with 1 split ring.

Sorry, should have said, I'm not sure if the brand matters, but Do It sells softener with their plastisol.

I used the essential plastisol for a lot of my baits. Softener should help. Not sure it matters but Do It sells softener with there plastisol.

Not sure it completely fits what you are looking for, but an option could be the Do It Thump Grub. There are various sizes, but here is a link to the 1.5" version. https://store.do-itmolds.com/15-Thump-Grub-5-cavity-_p_1129.html It is a good mold and makes outstanding baits.

Thanks for the input. I ended up finding some used do it boss hog molds. However, I still may look to the little crazy hog in the future for a mini version.

Not sure the length of the worm above, but do it molds has the thump grub molds. The biggest is a 5" which may not fit the bill. Here is a link: https://store.do-itmolds.com/5-inch-thump-grub-mold.html You may also be able to cut/splice together a tail and power worm and create a mold with POP. Just a few ideas.

I've been looking at adding the AI crazy hog mold. I'm wondering if anyone has this mold and thoughts on it. Looks like a nice mold, just looking for some opinions before buying it. Thanks

I'm glad others commented on this. Looks like I need to expand my hook selection. As far as the thread wrapped hook keepers, it looks like it. I have done this many times and it works well. No different that adding stinger hooks on a fly.

I'm sure you could. For me the underspin forms work for no swing and the regular forms for swing and I didnt have to modify anything. Neither would have a weedguard if that matters. I have the non swing mold too, which is also a nice mold. Just depends on what your after.

I could be wrong, but I tried the hooks I have and none fit. To get then to fit, you would have to modify the hook eye post. The form eyes are thicker than hook eyes (or at least all the ones I have). As an alternative "form" you can use the underspin forms DO IT sells (WEY-375). This puts the true hook eye in the middle of the lead vs a swing head. That Guy Skimpy has a few videos on YouTube showing this. This setup works great for bladed jigs. Hope it helps.

I sent you a PM.

This is outstanding advice. I honestly hadn't ever had residue left behind before. However, a used mold showed up the other day with lots of it, so I get it now. I used dish soap and water and scrubbed it with a hoof pick/brush from the local feed store. Looks like new as of this morning.

This is 100% true. Well said Les.

I haven't ever used white glitter, but a few ideas I have ever time I see it... Use it as a replacement for white colorant...or Make a clear bait with small amounts of white and black glitter...or Chartreuse baits with white glitter...or

I have a few of the stone molds and they work fine. As far as +/- here are a few thoughts: + = cheaper than alum molds, many are made outside US, so you can find replica bait molds that may not be otherwise available - = the molds used to take about 6 wks to get once ordered. However some are made in Ukraine, which may be hard or impossible to deliver currently. They need to be oiled before use to prevent sticking, stone could break, the ones I have are all one cavity. CNC Alum - baits will be professional looking, molds are solid as long as taken care of, they are costly, depending upon the bait can be found in multiple cavities. There are numerous bait companies to look through. 6" swim bait - I would look at the open pour molds at Angling AI. 6+" not sure. Hope it helps.