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4/0 last won the day on October 5 2020

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  1. fishordie, Here are a couple pictures of the popper ( one that I bought, don't know how to make them ). I have caught several nice Mahi off of it. Offshore on a weedbed I will throw it along the edge and rip it hard, popping it and then let it sit for a three/four count. The lateral line really shows up in the water. I don't if I like that or if the fish do.
  2. Nice fish. Say's that they live 60+ years. I don't have any experience making poppers but I have an older one that I bought and used it to throw on the edge on weedlines offshore for Mahi. I can dig it out and get a picture for you if you'd like. Besides a popper, something that would run just sub-surface and leave a wake on top of the water might get them interested also and run it right along the edge of the lily's.
  3. 4/0

    Waspi head cement

    I"ll just chalk it up to experience. The goal was to bind the hair and try to get a buildup on the thread when finished. I ordered some " Hard as Hull" and we"ll see how that goes. Thanks, 4/0
  4. 4/0

    Waspi head cement

    Thanks, I used to use a lot of lacquer when I was building cabinets. Have been using some of the hard as nails because of the " milky" problem. The Waspi seems like it penetrating better but the end color is bad. I'm using a throw away brush and this what it drys like on the bristles. The squeeze type bottle with the needle would be convenient.
  5. I have some Waspi head cement and every time I use it it drys " milky looking " not clear. It is solvent based . The thread is some Ultra and Danville 210 flat lightly waxed and also some polyester thread,, " milky " on all of these. I would like to have something that I can have in a dropper bottle with a needle type tip as I am tying. Using Bucktail and sometimes some synthetic type hair from LPO. Thanks.
  6. As Dink said CC is Columbia Coatings. I had seen it referred to as CC on here before so I used that. Below is the Chrome bond and I also painted another Gold Glitz but this time I used the chrome Bond first and baked then the Gold Glitz . A raw head is there for reference . Seems a little " Brighter" to me than above picture of the Gold with no undercoat. These are 1/2 oz. heads, need to pour some more 1/4's. Gold Glitz # M3678061 All in One Chrome # M2692012
  7. This is " Gold Glitz " from CC. I have their Chrome Bond that I could paint up and post if you would like. I use for first coat under Candy's ( still learning ).
  8. 4/0

    Balsa bodies

    LPO has quite a few. Not sure what you are looking for. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Lure-Making/Shop-By-Product-Category/Crankbaits-Plugs-Hardware/Plugs-Wood-Bodies?page=1 .
  9. I don't have any videos. Honestly not sure how to make them. It does the job though. I put some felt blocks on the wood base because it was sliding around and I do have to clamp it to table with a C-vise grip if I have all three cups rotating close to max. The chrome bond powder that I have been using for a first coat on translucent colors is now fluidizing ( if that is a word) which I could not get it to before. One thing I was wrong about in my above description about the speed controls. They do Not have a high and low speed. They reverse direction of rotation. So you have on/off power and variable speed with dial. I made several cups , so I just put in a different cup when I want a different color ( kasil's idea ). Get a new color, make a new cup.
  10. The pencil sinker idea is good. I had the same thoughts on keeping the hole " centered" in the body. I have pull pins from some egg sinker molds that I could use. Going to play with this over the winter and be ready for spring. water hits 70 d and they will be back.
  11. I'll look at a different body style I guess to experiment with and if the idea works then the mold can come into play. Thanks.
  12. I bought this one but I would like to try and make some that are heavier. I am thinking up to an ounce maybe 1 1/2 to throw at schools of Spanish Mackerel when they have bait balls pushed up on top and are busting them. Thinking along the lines of a Glass Minnow. Thanks.
  13. I thought that this is the best place to post this. The parts came in that I ordered and I have been looking at this and thinking ( oh Lord ) and this is what I came up with. Ordered the vibratory motors that Kasil recommended and I also got these speed controls. They have a high and low voltage with the rheostat so you have a wide range of variable speed with the motors. To mount the motors I scribed ( roughly ) some 3/4" PVC bd. to the 3" ABS end caps and used my belt sander to shape it. Glued it with PVC pipe glue and because of the vibration I wanted a mechanical fastener so I countersunk some ss screws. To try to isolate the vibration I found some rubber T - nuts and used a ss screw slipped thru the T-nut. The wood base was shaking some ( expected ) so I had some felt pads that I put on the base and that helped quite a bit. To power the motors which are DC. I used an old battery that came out of my boat and I will have that hooked up to a maintainer ( just on a charger now ). Made it out plywood laying around and a piece of 3/4 fir leftover.
  14. I just started using this hook in an Ultra mold. I fished it last week and caught some flounder and a Red on it around the oyster beds. The hook held up ( using 15 lb. mono w/ 12 lb. fluro ). Captain Hooks as stated above has them in more sizes but if you need 2/0 and smaller,, LPO has better numbers.
  15. Didn't mean to post in the wrong section. Still learning my way around here. I've read some stuff on bucktail that using to much will give less " fluff". I'm putting a wrap of short hair 3/8" or so on the collar first to try to help the longer hair flair out more. Experimenting with that. The thread has been tricky for me tension wise, I break it quite a bit and I some Ultra thread coming to try. The paint is fun and frustrating at the same time if that makes any sense. I have learned that when you dip the brush into the powder the next step is to tap the brush over the jar a couple times so there is little powder left on the brush. Heating is also tricky. Been trying different epoxy's but they yellow quickly. I found this CS coatings product ( clear not the UV ) at Barlow's and does not yellow but when I use the clearcoat over Red eyes it clouds the eye. Just on the Red ones. So still working on that. Thanks, 4/0
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