joe406

They are sending me a new gallon on plastic. Hopefully no problems. Joe

I agree. Very difficult and frustrating. If it is something I'm doing, I hope to correct the issue. Hope you're staying out of China, Joe

Good suggestion, I did this and left a message (after hours). I already received a text in return offering to help. Seems like pretty good customer service. Joe

I agree that I've always seen a distinct turnover with their and other branded plastic. This was like trying to work with water. I just made another batch with the swim bait formula and used my usual thermometer, no problems. I did contact them. Thanks, Joe

I was going to start a new topic but saw this one. I have used Dead On Plastic for my swim baits with no problems. I recently tried their finesse floating formula. When I poured it, it was like water, super thin. The plastic just poured out of the injector as I tried to get it to the molds. It took an exceptionally long time to set and was very messy and sticky. I had severe flashing problems. It got everywhere when I was trying to clean up. I did the following prior to the pour: - poured it into a bucket and mixed it thoroughly with a paint mixer - heated it to 360 degrees, after mixing and with a digital thermometer - I never really noticed the plastic "turn over" - checked that there was no packed plastic on the bottom of the jug - after hours of curing in cold water the baits are firm and not tacky Is this because of the finesse or floating plastic? I know that Dead On hardens at lower temps but I can't really work with it as is. Any suggestions are appreciated as well as recommendations for other plastics. Thanks in advance, Joe

I don't use my Do it injector anymore because of the locking pin. A little too much pressure on the Do It and you pop the nozzle right off.

That pretty much sums up my take as well. I didn't like that any contours and features were "dulled" by the thick cover layer. I was trying to coat painted soft baits but have ended up changing the way I paint instead.

This what I use. Holds about a cup when full.

I looked around on eBay and found a science beaker (this idea was a recommendation to me earlier) and use that to store and dip my Clearasol. You can get the beakers taller and narrower so you don't have to keep as much plastisol in them. Initially I was able to find a cheaper "pyrex" copy that was more vertical and used that as well although I'm not convinced it will hold up very long.

If it looks like a piece of hotdog or liver! We used to catch catfish in the Potomac while fishing for smallmouth so I don't see why not. We were using Mepps spinners with buck tails.

My apologies again. Here is a crappy substitute but hopefully you get the idea. By permission from David Williams.

Sorry about that. I tried it and it worked for me, I guess because I'm in the group. Like Keakar said.

Found it on Facebook. https://www.facebook.com/100000311057054/videos/2386221631398182/

What are the best alternatives then?

Maybe I'm reading into this too much. Can you explain fluxing the crucible or casting furnace? I'm having some problems with my Lee pot clogging up. I'm not sure if I contaminated it with zinc (I purchase "pure" lead from the local metal recycling place and melt it down into ingots) or am at a too low temperature. Thanks for the info, Joe

I recently (within the last two months) saw a video of a guy dipping mylar in clear plastic in several steps, adding eyes and paint to make a cool soft bait minnow. I can't find it. Anyone have a link for me? Thanks, Joe

I think your problem is going to be difficult. I have very limited experience with wood or metal. With that being said, my guess is that first you will have to figure out which half is warped/bent (if not both). I would also suspect that if the middle is the "high" area, sanding the middle and making the surface a plane that fits the other half is going to be a challenge. Best of luck, please let us know how you get it done. Joe

Great recommendation, thanks! Joe

In the winter sometimes the room I'm working in is in the 30s. I now use a hot plate to preheat the molds and injectors. It has reduced many of the problems I was having.

What is your favorite shrimp bait mold (2"-3")? Is it still made and available? Pictures of samples if you don't mind! Joe

Alright, well maybe that's it. I didn't realize that longer curing would mess up the process. I guess I will dip these to protect the paint that I put on. Thanks for the help, Joe

I finally received and had time to try the SB paint. I gave it time to cure (weeks) and it just rubs off with my thumb. What gives? There's no point in buying the expensive paint if I have to dip it anyway! What am I doing wrong?

I haven't heard of this. How do you like it and how does it compare to the others? Joe

What do you mean by polysyllabic? Is that both polysol? I see, my auto correct tried to do the same to me! Thanks, Joe

I spent some time on the phone today with Josh over at LureWorks. He told me that regular paint thinner and mineral spirit thinner didn't work with their paint. I had called because my brush was clogging up after just a few minutes of painting. I had added the paint thinner as a possible solution and my paint started getting gummy. I had to disassemble my brush several times for cleaning. He mentioned their retarder and also acetone as cleaners. He also suggested I turn down the air because it might be drying up too fast. I tried it (once only) and I was able to paint my whole session without problems. I also brought up the lack of videos/instruction on the use and he said they were running behind on that. I wish I had known about the retarder so I could have bought them all together. Shipping is pretty expensive. Joe