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canuck 2

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canuck 2 last won the day on August 2 2019

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  1. If you made them yourself then my first thought was how did you cut them to length? What kind of cutting tool did you use that would leave a sharp edge? can a grind wheel cutter on a dremel or rotary tool work beter ,if at all to cut to length with out the angle bevel, sharp edge of say a cutting plier, wire cutting plier? Sorry I have never worked with titanium wire as its properties seem limiting to my lure crafting. ie spinner baits ,wire forming. Burning the wire may be another side effect of grind cutting which may be undesirable. Just thinking out side the box a little. I thought people ordered titanium pre formed wire frames as bending and memory was an issue. Cutting would also be something to consider .
  2. Dan . That is a beautiful dry profile bait you have made. Is there another treble hook and body weight, tieing coil under all that maribou ? or straight shaft ? What method are you using to seperate /protect your maribou tie in point from the body weight? Have you checked the body bulk and profile after tank testing or wetting everything ? Sometimes lesser quality feathers can be utilized without affecting the actual fishability of the bait. Thus keeping your wastage down and per bait cost under control. the damage done by a big predator strike can be substantial each fish caught and as material is removed it can in fact improve the catch rate of a bait even though they do not look as appealing to us the fisherman. As materials are getting harder to find and I have always had a hard time with the throw it away scenario. You can find many uses for the lesser quality non perfect looking feathers. Dressing treble hooks and a lot of fly tying patterns (throat detail, gills ) etc can use up some if not all of the lesser quality feathers. Food for thought and sometimes fish .lol .Hope this helps. Keep up the good work .
  3. Outlaw4 the answer to your question is hot enough to get the powder paint to melt / change state on your jig or blade with out overheating the intended project ie melting the lead or burning the brass, metal etc. . Heat sources like hot air guns are great for smaller jigs and blades if your work isn't to large to prewarm fairly quickly. If you are doing bigger stuff with more lead density metal mass to get the desired effect I use a propane torch on low flame .I move the project around back and forth above the actual flame (heat cone) not directly into the flame itself. Hot air is a little more forgiving as to how long you can and need to warm your piece. Start with a slow count of seconds and then try a drop of powder on your work. See how it reacts. If its not hot enough then put back under the air again for another few seconds. Same goes for the torch timing. When I first started using the powder spray gun I found the air gun took to long and did not warm the blades fast enough to do a lot of larger blades and achieve a nice smooth coverage without having to reheat several times between coats . Every time you reheat you have to be aware of the possibility that there is a chance of burning the paint layer that you have already been able to apply.. once the melt temp is achieved and you want to add some more paint ,it will take less time to bring the temp back up unless you have really delayed application for a bit. The paint will tell the tail. Residual heat will stay in the lead or blade for quite a while. Enough to be a burn hazard to unprotected skin. Wear gloves and hold part with forceps. To do your second color over the first you do not need to heat cure to say, like bake the painted part in an oven ,just reapply enough heat to bring the temp up and spray, drop, shake add the second color without burning /overheating the first color. Powder can be applied right over top of a base color without bleeding. In some cases like a white base will enhance a chartreuse over coat etc. Once you have attained the color and look of the bait that you wanted Then you can cure /bake it in an a dedicated oven to attain the high gloss tough finish. Usually between 250 to 350Degrees for 20 to 30 minutes. Everyone has there own preferences and experiences. All of this is trial and error, timing and practice. Comfort level ,equipment available and knowing ones abilities and surroundings all are variables to consider . Each can and may change the timing of how long you need to preheat. I do a lot of work in an unheated basement at approx. 60*f. All of my jigs and blades and molds are at room temp to start. Some guys may be in there garage even colder or warmer. It all changes the timing and prep time to get a reliable quality finish. Hope this makes sense to you and answers your question. Cheers
  4. I have found that the air brush for powder is not very good for small detail . In my experience it puts out a lot of powder and is difficult to be accurate. I find it is great for base coating blades and heads and for blend one color into another to get a smooth two color finish with out the thickness of paint that you can get from brush dropping two colors. The excessive paint spray definitely causes more of a recovery/ clean up issue and uses a lot of paint compared to brush tapping , dipping or fluid bed painting . It has its place in the craft and if practiced dose a great job for what it costs. As for brush tapping, I use cheep acid brushes, have not yet tried make up brushes. I first tune my brush up by pushing it into the palm of my hand to spread the fibers apart to change the amount of volume that the brush will hold to get different affects and yes dip and tap off the excess powder if you need less before tapping over your work. I also like to use what I call salt and pepper shaker delivery for doing the detail work like top of jig heads ,backs of minnow shaped jig heads ,kill spots etc. If your not familiar it is like an old film roll canister , one inch sized craft plastic cup with a snap on lid, easily purchased at dollar store or craft store everywhere. Drill a single small hole in the center of the lid and shake or drop the powder out by tapping it like the brush method. Different sized holes for different volumes of power flow. Not my invention or idea , got it reading on this site a few years back but has allowed me to do some really interesting effects creating some life like imitation bait fish designs. Like every part of our craft, figure out what you want to do and match or make the tools to get it done ,then above all practice the technic until you master it or are happy with the result. Hope this helps. Cheers
  5. Heating plastisol with a microwave then pyrex or anchor brands are good, relatively safe. Approved for use by manufacturer. Don't believe you should heat direct on element like electric hot plate using pyrex or anchor measureing cups .Not approved for direct heating. I may be wrong but recall reading it some where. Check it out before moving forward. Metal pots for heating on electric elements.( definitely not for microwave) Hope I dont give you in accurate info here ! Just airing on the side of caution.
  6. Big Epp Just a word of caution about live uncured road kill type of free resources. Organics like tails, feathers, furs have a natural tendency to carry with them bugs parasites larva etc. Some still have active degrading fleshy left overs. Do some research about prepping them or treating them to avoid un wanted elements creeping into your other materials possibly ruining a high priced cape or hackle collar. Some people will micro wave ( radiate) tails and fur to kill unwanted unseen pests, (not in your personal home cooking micro, use a cheep older one dedicated to only that use)... some people cure tail ends with salt to dry them up to stop wrought and odors. A lot of people protect there stuff by storing it in moth balls after treating. A some what seemingly free road kill tail can cost you a ton of lost money and material if untreated or properly prepped . I am sure your probably already aware of this but thought it might be worth a mention. I have used road kill racoon tail and grey squirrel tails ,deer tails with good success and yes you can save money by doing so. As you get further into the addictive qualities and free your creative spirit of tying. I found it so much more fulfilling and less work with piece of mind to purchase already treated products from specialty suppliers. Yes some what expensive to purchase but will last a very long time if you look after them. Bags of mixed craft stuff like feathers are very low quality in my experience and you have to sort out through a lot of substandard feathers to find the right size, length width ,lie barring etc not worth the time to me now . It is a process or evolution. I think it is limited to your budget and imagination Great hobby and pastime. Hope this helps. Happy tying.
  7. maybe try Latulippe outdoors.canada for your maribou. I think they are out of montreal or quebec city
  8. try luremaking.com out of hepworth ont. They are a great resource right here in ontario.
  9. William. A fisherman may try to adapt or modify a lure in the field by adding weight to a hook or by putting a weight ahead of the lure on the line using some kind of swivel or leader to get the bait to sink deeper or cast further. Adding weight will effect action by imparting drag and will change retrieval angles etc. I would not say that hook weighting is a preferred option. But it may give someone a chance at putting a lure in the strike zone when you don't have any other options available.
  10. Do it refers to the EWG 10777 90* jig hook size#1 for the WMF-6-A mold. Is Victory the only supplier of this hook right now or is or will there be supplier options moving forward?
  11. Thanks for all of your replies. I just poured some 5" shads with it and was feeling that they were going to be too soft ,but after a few days of cure time I have noticed that they have firmed up considerably. Will have to water/ fish test them but so far it looks like I wont need to add any hardener. Time will tell. As far as reheats and darkening of lighter colors the more you reheat. I am a small time 1 cup at a time pourer so my experience is geared to just that . I have made myself aware that while micro waving reheats the volume of the plastic in the cup changes every time that I draw some for a shoot so time in the micro needs to be adjusted( lessened accordingly) to avoid over heating on reheat I use a very precise digital type k thermocouple probe thermometer and check regularly not just rely on physically feeling the runniness/flow consistency of the remaining plastisol. I don't know how challenging it would be to use a hot plate / electric heat source to control the whole process. Kind of like the micro system and its working for me so far. Note also that I have built and use a well enclosed work bench/ station with ventilation hood/ exhaust system plus wear a two cartridge respirator mask and use crossflow open window fresh air make up while doing this process. Will need to extend my hood to pull fumes from above my drying/curing wracks to avoid stray fumes from contaminating the surrounding work space..basement work shop. Stay safe people.
  12. Thanks Wallyc14 for sharing your experience. The learning curve has been made shorter and the road to success less costly thanks to the continuous generosity of the people on this site. Thanks to all who have helped me become a better lure crafter. Cheers
  13. Thanks wallyc14, I would be looking at using plastisol clear hardener from do it just to keep the products used from the same company. Less chance for unexpected hick ups.
  14. Thanks Frank for your reply and comments. It was not my intent to create a negative product bashing post here . Maybe a chance for users to reflect on experiences that did not go so well and share some of their learning curve while using this or any product. Part of my question is due to the fact that here in ontario we have only two suppliers of plastics for lure builders that I am aware of. I have been relying on this product and so far it has delivered. What other advantages would be by using another blend? Better detail , shinier finish, tougher cured outer skin? Any chance I get to avoid paying import duties and dollar exchange rates over and above is well worth it to me. As globally we all want to shop locally maybe one bad experience for what ever reason shouldn't lead to a life time of bias against any product that is basically designed for our craft. Just one guys open thoughts. Cheers
  15. I have heard so many people say that they do not wanting to use do it plastisol for baits and was wondering just what people experienced to cause this kind of negative reaction. I am fairly new to pouring and have used soft do it plastisol successfully for three gallons now and had no issues. I do add several drops of heat stabilizer to every cup and have done very well with re-heats and a mix of old baits and sprues etc. I do also make sure that while heating with a micro wave that I stage the heat times and mix a lot between heating intervals until 350*f is attained. I also add fresh plastisol while using left over color chunks and make sure these chunks are scissor cut into small pieces and mixed thoroughly before heating. I would like to move forward by adding some hardener to the soft plastisol to get a bit firmer mix for swimbaits and frogs etc. Any feed back on that would be appreciated plus what ever bad experiences people have had while using this product that has been so great for me so far. Thanks.
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