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Redfisher

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Everything posted by Redfisher

  1. Awesome molds and well worth the wait. Just consider the amount of orders that come in and the run time needed. Plenty of fish have been caught using their molds for me. I really like their quality and service.
  2. I use mine up quickly so no hard pack issues for me there. I fish the es med/firm all the time in saltwater with great results and durability.
  3. I cant get away from mf easy stretch and bounce. I even mix them together. The only draw back to bounce is it wont laminate unless duel injected. The easy stretch has no draw back. I use soft bounce as a softner and never need a hardner for es med/firm. I also use bounce medium as a softner for es.
  4. MF easiest to work with for me and handles reheats very well. Really like the new plastics they created around 3 years ago.
  5. I have had both and preferred the doit unit over the bass tackle. It got hot faster and I could empty the chambers better. Had less reheats that way. It is all about what you like. Many guys like the pins. I get that as well. I do have two of the doit large injectors as well and love them, triple pin units. Again gets hot quicker and allows less reheats of solid plugs.
  6. Its a great plastic. Takes heat well, I reheat it a lot and don't use stabilizer. It is not like zman. It is very durable and has action but it's not elaztech.
  7. mf motor oil is what it is in the first bag. the craws could be the same just a different amount of drops. If they turn green as well its mf motor oil. It is a green\red changeable and a bleeder.
  8. Bassmaster Rick, when heating those small amounts the plastic is much hotter in the center than the sides. Heat in shorter burst and slowly stir to even out heat with a butter knife or rod. The same is true when remelting the runners etc. I only remelt white after a 1 minute burst with 20 second heats and stirs. If you get bubbles they will disappear when you break surface tension by adding colorant glitter etc. Remelts use a heat source and pop them out. The cardboard idea is great because it helps distribute the heat better in thos small 8 oz of plastic. I even use it with my 16 and 32 oz pyrex cups. If in a presto I let it run at 315 or 320 and let the mixer run. The runners and plugs melt into it pretty well.
  9. Heating that plastic to long in those 2 minute burst, have a little more patience with it. Go 2 then 1 then 30 seconds to get to 360 350. Then do your thing. With remelts depending on how cool it is go 1:30 or 1 then judge from there. It will stay clear and desired color. Try setting it on cardbard in the microwave and when you take it out.
  10. Also red glitter gets hot and bleeds. Red and green when overheated will turn brownish like the color wheel will dispaly in different hues. So an overheat in run 2 and a possible underheat in round 3.
  11. Did you add the solid plastic to it after 2 injections. Also how solid was the remaining plastic in the bottom of the cup. 2 30 second reheats would not be enough. It will act like jello somewhat when you reheat on your way back to 315 320 or over.
  12. My guess is the third reheat had cooled greatly. If you added the runners and injector plugs back in you needed to heat it more to get it back up to temp. I am guessing at this because it did not say your third injection became jello, just the material.
  13. Did any of the tips help at all. When plastic sits it can also collect moisture.for that long a time. Condensation in the container forms and the heating process slowed down helps sometimes, not always.
  14. Try heating the cup alone for 1 minute and shake the hell out of it. Pop caused bubbles with heat. Heat in the microwave at a slower pace. Try 1 minute then 30 second burst. If you start to get worried add some stabilizer. Reheat cut it up small and then slowly heat with 30 to 20 second burst. Pop any bubbles with heat.
  15. yes just cut the tab off you create by taking it out.
  16. I'm thinking a tougher plastic will reduce the wag and get a tighter thump. that big tail will allow for the action even at a tougher plastic. Softer plastic will create some awesome slow roll appeal.
  17. The action of that 4 inch in the video is something I see with my own eyes. I like it, going to get several. They are 5 to 6 weeks out and it looks like it will be worth the wait. I don't care who designed what the eye in the sky don't lie. You can't falsify the baits swimming action that you see. Thicker tail means more durable too. I think that's a plus since hand poring baits takes way longer than injection. I'm just giving my opinions here on what looks like a sweet design and the video footage of it. In the video he even tells you what blend of plastic he uses to give you an idea of its durometer so you can experiment from there. Thinking this in a firmer plastic will be incredible action and durability. A softer plastic will get some great strikes and maybe the thickness will allow some durability that does not exist in other open pour designs. Can't wait to find my preference.
  18. 500g is only about 17 fluid ounces. so would need 7 orders to get a gallons worth.
  19. Thermo Plastic Elastomer-- TPE it will become flat in any regular bait bag. Leave it in the sun on your boat deck and it absorbs the heat, almost untouchable. Mix with plastisol and will loose shape over time. They usually shoot these with pressure and use different colorants than we do. I have 10LBS of the pellets in a viscosity grade similar to plastisol and it will liquify on a stove and take powder and glitter. Still not successful in creating multiple use good baits, have tried several suggested methods but none are successful.
  20. No, but I probably could get my hands on one if I really wanted too. I'm not calling in that favor though, I have no need too.
  21. Got ya, I believe the Doc Irv baits are an old Bear Baits Mold but I could be wrong.
  22. Meant the molds. Did not mean the worm itself. Obviously they could be a custom or a mold cutter who no longer is around or cuts them. It was a simple question about the molds. The color in this case I will say probably aluminum.
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