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Big Epp

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Posts posted by Big Epp

  4. Weighting a HellHound/tailfin glidebait

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    I just watched a video of the hellhound's action. If i was going to make one, I'd find the center of balance, then move equidistant in each direction with an even amount of weight (so 2 holes for weight) to get the desired float level. Might even use 3 holes, with weight at the center of balance and on each side of it.

    I know this reply is a bit late, how did whatever you did turn out?

  5. Choosing wood species

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    I've seen a lot of people use maple or poplar for swimbaits. Something very buoyant like cedar, redwood, or basswood will take a ton of lead, whereas something more dense won't need nearly as much. A tradeoff is the maple is much harder to carve than basswood.

    A lot of people will use different types of wood for different types of baits, and wood density can have a significant impact on lure function. The buoyancy of the wood works with the drag of the lip on crankbaits to impart action, gliders use the mass of the bait and the hydrodynamics of the profile to create a good glide, and so it goes.

    • Like 2

  7. Surf Fishing Carolina Rig?

    in Fishing Tips

    Posted

    We're down here now, but on the west end of the island. Our part of the surf has a decent trough before the first sandbar, and I haven't found any cuts in the bar nearby. I also left my big surf rod back home so I could fit everyone's pole, so I can't cast past the bar. 

    I've been using a double dropper rig with a small hook on each dropper baited with fishbites. Then instead of a sinker I've got a ¾oz jig with a white grub tail (also tipped with fishbites). I'm not trying that hard, but with 3 hooks you certainly can't say I'm not trying! 

  10. Paint Patterns - Top 5

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    I fish mostly bass in the nidwest US, and I've really been enjoying a sunfish/bluegill pattern. So I guess my list would be:

    1) Crayfish

    2) bluegill

    3) brown back, cream sides, light green belly

    4) blue back, silver sides, pink belly

    5) can't think of a 5th... should probably go sleep... something very shaddy I suppose.

    Great question. Nice to see everyone's ideas!

    • Like 1

  12. Design to get a nice walk on glide/jerkbait

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    I think @Outlaw4 has a good point about the weight.  Keeping the weight down in the lure close to the belly might help keep it from rolling over and help it swim more upright.  Generally speaking, keeping the lure sitting level can be really helpful.  I've made some that sat nose up or down and still swam fine, but level is generally the way to go.

    • Like 2

  16. Different wood types

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    I do like using hardwoods for glide baits though, explicitly because it takes so much less lead to balance it. I tried making a couple subsurface gliders out of redwood (which is crazy boyouant) and it took something like 10lbs of lead to get them to slow sink...

    • Like 2
    • Haha 1

  17. Different wood types

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    I also like using cedar, and also redwood. Part of that is I have an ample supply from various construction projects over the past couple years...

    The part about cedar that i find can make it tough to carve is the very different density of the hard and soft growth rings. I have mostly red cedar. There is variation from piece to piece in this too. Overall though it is easy to saw and shape, it's pretty strong and durable, and it is very boyant. Another plus is how nice the shop smells when the dust settles! (I use a respirator to keep the dust from settling in my lungs).

    Overall though I take a very utilitarian approach, and use whatever I have handy. As other have mentioned, each type of wood has its own characteristics and quirks, and I find it fun navigating that variability. I've used oak, pine(s of all sorts), pvc, basswood, maple, cedar, redwood, etc...

    • Like 2

  19. Pouring questions

    in Wire Baits

    Posted

    Great points! My pot was only half full (or a little less). I only had 1 extra pound of lead, so I'll need to pick up some more lead and maybe pick a warmer day to pour. It's been pretty cold here (20s and 30s).

    Do the molds also lose heat quickly? I noticed I had much better luck this time, but the middle cavity (1/4oz) poured well while the end cavity (3/8oz) did not do great. I figured this is because of how cold it was, that the ends of the mold were cooling faster than the middle.

    I placed all my hooks on top of a toasterover and they (as well as the pins) were hot to touch.

  20. Pouring questions

    in Wire Baits

    Posted

    Alright, I preheated my mold (do-it poison tail) on the lead pot as it melted the lead, did several empty pours, had the lead pot set at 7/8, put in the hooks, hit the base of the mold with a heat gun, and got good looking jig tops.

    When I took the hooks out and poured again I got great fill. Should I try heating the hooks more?

    20230104_213147.jpg

  22. Pouring questions

    in Wire Baits

    Posted

    @21xdc and @Kasilofchrisn, you both shared some really helpful info, and i appreciate your experience and willingness to share. Please take this with a grain of salt, coming from someone who has a lee pot and a mold inventory that puts BOTH of yours to shame (literally 2 from Do-It), I don't think we need to spend too much time figuring out who has the biggest lead pot on this thread ;)

  24. Best casting resins?

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    Dude, that does look sick! I could see that profile being a great muskie bait or big bass swimbait!

    I'm going to try my hand with resin soon.  How are you doing on finding the balance with micro baloons and resin?  I saw the engineered angler uses 10% micro baloons.

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