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Big Epp

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Posts posted by Big Epp

  1. 2 hours ago, alsworms said:

    I found a guy at one of our local tackle shops that is going to be putting some on the wall this week.  He said he's making a small run and setting a couple aside for me.  We'll see how it goes!

    I love it when we can find good local connections!

    • Like 1
  2. I got one of these done with the lip in the original position (it was already cut). I did change the line tie location. Overall it swam well. It was more consistent when the line angle was parallel to the surface of the water. When I held the rod at a high angle it seemed like the lure was fighting the angle.

    IMG_20220824_205025.jpg

    • Like 2
  3. 2 hours ago, Flaswimbaiter said:

    Is that hardener waterproof? I would like to get away from using superglue, but it test my baits in water before painting them.

    It appears to be (and I think it ways it is).  I'll often fill a canning jar with it, quickly dip my lures, and then test them that way before putting anything else on it.

    • Thanks 1
  4. Hey!  There's a lot of people who will put a layer of epoxy down over the wood to seal everything and create a smooth surface for painting on.  I often will use a coat of minwax wood hardener for a similar function. It seals the wood and creates a hard surface.  After applying the hardener I'll sand it again to get a smooth base. 

    I think there's some added value with using an epoxy base coat for muskie lures, as it creates some added protection from fish teeth.  That's not something I need to consider most of the time, as I'm targeting bass primarily.

    • Like 1
  5. My dryer vent detaches easily from the inside. I have some extra dryer vent material that I run from my spray booth to the dryer vent with a small vent fan to pull the air. 

    Someone gave me a hobby spray station that has a filter and fan included, which is really neat.

  6. Thanks guys! I figured I was getting too much paint on, but not sure what to do differently.

    I'll try one of those racks. My toaster oven is a pain to use for jigs, and that would be really helpful.

    • Like 1
  7. I found out a guy I went to high school owns a sandblasting and powder place. I got a bunch of samples of various colors. My problem is the paint seems to be dripping off the top of my jig heads.

    I usually use a heat gun, but today I used a lighter. I rotated the jigs in the flame for about 5 seconds before dipping them in the paint. I moved them to a toaster oven when they had cooled and baked them at about 300 for about 20 minutes. Any ideas?

    IMG_20220807_200323.jpg

  8. I very much appreciate the variety of perspectives on this site, as well as the wealth and diversity of experience!  I generally take a very unscientific approach to all this, so I try to glean what I can when I can.  That's a very good point about the shock absorber too.  I was sort of thinking of tossing this with  piece of rebar and 65lb braid, so I'd better take some of those stress limits pretty seriously...

    The first bunch will all have the lip in the original position, as they are already cut, and then I'll adjust as needed.

  9. Kinda feels like I'm showing you my underwear here...but this is what I'm thinking. How would you work lip location to avoid interfering with the front hook? 

    I saw a video from he engineered angler where he figured angling the front and rear line tie and hook hanger helps with overall strength.

    IMG_20220718_145429.jpg

    • Like 1
  10. Thanks guys!

    Redwood is incredibly boyouant, so I'll definitely be adding quite a bit of lead. I like the idea of using a hardwood instead. I wouldn't need nearly as much lead, and the stronger wood would certainly reduce the risk of lure failure.

    I traced my pattern and altered the lip location. Let me know what you think.

    IMG_20220718_140229.jpg

  11. Hey all!

    I'm working on a small swimbait/wakebait. It's maybe 3" long and my blanks are about 3/4-1" thick. I'm going to use the pin style joint where the connection comes out of the back end and is pinned into holes in the front end.

    What size drill bit would you use to make the joint holes? I've got some made of redwood and some made with PVC. 

    Do you have any concerns with the strength of this style of joint? Any concerns with it splitting or tearing out?

    I've only done one lure with this style joint, so I'm very new to this process... thanks!

    IMG_20220717_211741.jpg

  12. There is some really inspirational stuff on here.  I'm very often challenged by the quality put out by some on here!  All Eyes posts stuff that just blows me away!

    Knitting isn't so bad, especially on those 100+ degree days...

  13. Hillbilly, I think many of us are at least a little strange...

    I had one of those when I was a kid (before my folks trusted me with a knife) and it was my favorite tool! I loved how I could shape wood with it. Seeing it on here, maybe I'll pick some up for my kids (and me) to work with.

    Great start! Keep us updated as you progress with this lure.

    • Like 3
  14. Okay, so I was out in my shop earlier and couldn't come up with something productive. Despite the many unfinished projects I couldn't find something to do so I started working on this...the combination wrench popper!

    As it is I figure I'll put the line tie in the tool face, with a belly hook at about 2 ½ inches and a tail hook. I'm thinking of putting lead for ballast and action in the locations designated by the drill bits. 

    Before I start tinkering on this, what are your thoughts? Especially on lead placement, what would you change?

    Thanks for the feedback!

    IMG_20220625_224440.jpg

  15. 58 minutes ago, Hillbilly voodoo said:

    Not in my hands it’s not 

    I have a smartphone I use for my pictures and I think I do okay with it. My sister is a photographer and uses her phone for a lot of product photography. The difference between my work and hers is astronomical! 

    Lots of great entries this year!

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