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Big Epp

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Posts posted by Big Epp

  1. 58 minutes ago, Hillbilly voodoo said:

    Not in my hands it’s not 

    I have a smartphone I use for my pictures and I think I do okay with it. My sister is a photographer and uses her phone for a lot of product photography. The difference between my work and hers is astronomical! 

    Lots of great entries this year!

  2. Welcome!

    There's another maker from Germany on here, though I haven't seen him post in a while. @fishordie79 He might have some specific insight on what you can find over there.

    I've dipped a lot of baits in Oil Modified Urethane gym floor sealer. You might be able to find something of that nature out by you. There are also a lot of moisture cured urethane products.

    I haven't used spray acrylics, but I've used a lot of spray enamels. They seal really well with the OMU sealer.

    • Like 1
  3. If you wanted something fishable, you could try a lipless crank or a glider. A glider might be more aestetically pleasing. With the density of the wood I'd imagine you would have to use very little ballast weight for a glider and minimal weight in the nose/belly/throat for a lipless crank.

    Please post pictures of what you come up with. Natural wood baits are beautiful!

  4. 23 hours ago, Flaswimbaiter said:

    I hate scales, I have tried different techniques and I am never happy with the outcome. 

    I get that. It's definitely easier to use the ol' airbrush and some mesh.  I talked with an old timer who carves fish, not lures, but decorative fish.  He uses a gouge.  I tried that, and it's pretty straightforward. 

    • Like 1
  5. 13 hours ago, Travis said:

    the drop foot (two finger metal thing)

     

    Thank you for translating, that's exactly what I was referring to! I suppose a sewing machine reference my not have been particularly helpful.

    • Like 1
  6. Wow! Lots of great feedback on here!

    @AZ Fisher, I feel like you just took me to school on this, and I am excited to put some of this stuff into practice.

     @Flaswimbaiter, I hate the feeling of painting one up and making look just great then having it not swim like it did previously.  Nothing hurts quite like drilling into a nice paint job and clear coat to add or adjust some lead...

    • Like 3
  7. I made a couple wake baits loosely based on the Slammer. It was a pretty simplesrylewake to start with. I used about a 90° lip angle and it worked pretty well.

    Now I'm working on some to make with more detail and a realistic profile. It's about 3" long. I'm planning on using 2 joints and bristle fins. At some point I'm going to try the hinge style joint, but I'm working with twisted joints. 

    IMG_20220425_142640.jpg

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  8. I asked a friend of mine who was a career shop teacher about this, and he told me scroll saws are primarily designed for cutting thinner sheet material. I wonder if maybe a bandsaw would be better for cutting blanks and a scroll saw would be better for cutting lips? No idea though, as I only have a bandsaw.

  9. He does some crazy work! I've been reading a lot of books on carving birds and decoys, and will probably integrate some techniques used to do feathers into fish carving.

  10. Thanks, I was really happy with how it turned out! I've not done much detail carving before, but I'm trying to get more into it as well as making some swimbaits (big, little, in-between). I've made patterns for 5" crappie and bluegill, 8" smallmouth, 10" walleye, and a 2" topminnow.

    The wood is California redwood I got doing a demo job on an old kit house. I'm excited to have it, as it's basically impossible to get any out here. It carves like butter and floatslike crazy. It's so pretty I'll probably make several with no paint. They look kinda folkartish that way... In the picture it's got a coat of miwax wood hardener. 

  11. I too use scraps. It's fun to work with different woods and have to adjust accordingly. 

    One thing you can try is making the front face of the lure concave, flat, or convex. Each of those will give a different swim.

    Additionally you can adjust the distance of the line tie from the nose of the bait to change the action (quite dramatically!).

    Thickness of the blank matters too. A thicker bait will require more lead to get your preferred sink rate.

    One thing I do is try to use the same pattern for different baits. With this pattern I can make 2 different glide baits, a lipped crank, and a lipless crank just by adjusting the position of the lead and the line tie. 

    16503826717791774427657145432907.jpg

    • Like 2
  12. Thanks for including the original post. All I know is what I've seen on YouTube, so I'm definitely a resin noob!

    I got an Alumilite molding kit on clearance along with some extra resin and mold making goop.

    Some basics (correct me if I'm wrong):

    1) pure resin sinks.

    2) you get buoyancy by adding microbaloons, which are tiny glass balls that are not good to inhale.

    3) you can add ballast or make it sink faster by adding birdshot.

    And that's about all I've got.

  13. Hey all. On another thread there was a great conversation about resin, and I would love to learn more! I just bought all the basic molding stuff and am excited to get started.

    • Like 1
  14. Thanks again for your tips! I went out today with one of my jigs and caught 3 largemouth. Biggest was 19". Yesterday I fished a spinnerbait I had redressed, and caught 2, biggest was 18". I'll post a couple pictures in the gallery.

    • Like 1
  15. I'm no expert, but I'd try thinning your paint. I can shoot pretty well at 10-15psi if the paint is thin enough. Not that I do often, but I've done it.

    What kind of paint are you using? I've found different paints spray differently. I usealmost all created paints, and there is a big difference between the pearl paint and the opaque paint.

    My airbrush came with some paints (not surethebrand) and they aremuchthinner and spray better at lower pressure.

  16. How does KBS do with soft plastics? Don't some MCUs react to the softeners? I have used an oil modified urethane gym floor sealer in the past. I really like it, but have been careful to keep it away from plastics.

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