Big Epp
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Posts posted by Big Epp
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So from the post it looks like it's "coming soon," which is great, because I haven't started painting yet...
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I missed it too, glad you said something!
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I've been finding the center of balance and then measuring an equal distance away from that. I guess with a two piece bait I'd find the center of balance on each piece, and then do a float test in a 5 gal. bucket before applying any glue. I think this works, though I haven't consulted a physics textbook (or @Vodkaman!) yet.
Great gill detail, that's impressive!
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Love the ideas shared so far! I too prefer round beads...I did find some beads made of volcano rock too, which I thought was pretty cool!
I really like all the colors and styles of plastic beads available. I get most of mine at Wal Mart in their jewelry section. To compensate for the light weight of the beads I use an appropriately sized bullet weight. I'll often use enamel paint over the bullet weight. Sometimes you can find them pre-painted. So many options...
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I've had good luck with glitter in the epoxy. The glitter I used was kind of rough and it took two more coats of epoxy to smooth out the finish.
What are you trying to do with the glitter?
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15 minutes ago, Apdriver said:
Thanks Matt for being a member here.
Second!
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I was using off brand window cleaner until I realized I was spraying ammonia into the air...
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My first thought was the small, rare earth magnets. They are really strong and might do the trick.
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I hate spending money, and I'm always looking for ways to save or get a good deal.
I did have a complaint with Barlow's. While I wasn't particularly happy with their solution, they were very friendly and engaging, and they made a good effort to resolve my complaint. I'd try them again if the need was there.
I've had good luck and great service with LurePartsOnline, and I've found the best prices for what I'm looking for at Jann's Netcraft. So many places to spend the money I don't want to spend for stuff I definitely need...oh the luremaker's dilemma!
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I used to use MCU (Moisture Cured Urethane) a lot in the past, and I understand that melts with the softeners in the plastic. A lot of the feedback I got on this was that epoxy generally does not have this problem.
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I use Envirotex Lite, but I've heard great things about Devcon (referenced a lot as D2T).
The key to an even coat is a lure rotisserie. I do know someone who uses multiple very thin coats and then hangs them to dry between coats. I have done base coats of epoxy and then hung them to cure with good success, though there is some settling regardless of how thin I applied it.
There are a lot of advantages to using epoxy. I have often used Moisture Cured Urethane, and it's very easy to use. I just dip and hang the lures between coats.
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That's all gravy @mjs, I've heard a lot of guys say, "any color is good, as long as it's black."
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I also use multiple knives. My favorite carving/whittling knife to date was some sort of small, folding Gerber knife. Had a short (2.25") blade and was very comfortable in the hand. Unfortunately I lost it while canoeing...
Now I either use one of a couple utility knives or an older Mora knife (from before they became Morakniv). Like Eastman03, I'm not set on anything, and will hopefully try some new stuff soon. I guess it gets down to whatever is most comfortable, available, and practical.
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One advantage (perhaps) of the wood hardener is that it makes the bait more dense, meaning you'll need less lead to weigh it down. I make a lot of lures out of redwood, which is SUPER buoyant, and sometimes I have to add an excessive amount of lead.
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I've used penetrating wood hardener to toughen up delicate baits as well. You have to dip it kind of quickly or it over-soaks. I don't use balsa, but I sometimes make micro-crankbaits out of redwood or willow branches, and I often use the hardener to increase durability. Ive heard it's necessary (or at least strongly advisable) to use some sort of reinforcing layer with balsa, maybe an undercoat of epoxy, to make the bait more durable and prevent it from destructing with a big fish.
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I'm no physicist, and I might be misunderstanding your question, but I think it's more about manipulating the variables you mentioned than doing anything to the joint itself. Different styles of joint (pin, hinge, double loop) have different characteristics, but I view the joint itself as the pivot point in this picture I found on Wikipedia... The joint itself is not really a variable here as much as all the other pieces are. Are we on the same page on this?
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Good work man. Mr. Rogers (might be before your time...) says that everyone makes mistakes, and Michael Jordan said you have to learn to fail before you can succeed. You are on the right track and in good company!
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I wonder, do lures with the hooks screwed in like this have more trouble loosing fish than ones with free-swinging hooks? Interesting little bait.
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I've heard tuning pianos is a real pain...
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I saw a video of a guy using a salt shaker. To limit the flow he taped over as many holes as he wanted so he could control the powder. I haven't tried this yet, but it's on my list.
Smalljaw has some great stuff out there on this topic too. I posted a question about multiple colors with powder and got some great feedback. You can find it in this forum somewhere in the not-too-distant past.
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I get that. I picked up a bunch of cans on clearance, then I got an airbrush...
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Toss a can in a bucket of water and see what happens...
I've done several with cans, and prefer to use them when detail isn't as important. My uncle can get pretty good detail, but struggles like you said with scales. I think it might work a bit better if you spray from farther away. If you spray too close the paint is blasted under the netting or screen or whatever you use.
Like @mark poulson said, you can also dust multiple colors to create some cool blending effects.
Starter Airbrush paint and air compressor
in Hard Baits
Posted
Before I started airbrushing I asked a professional what his recommendation was and he basically said, "buy the best and you won't regret it." He recommended the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS. It was pricey, but I had some startup money available.
I use a 6 gal shop compressor with inline moisture trap and pressure valve. No problems thus far (2 years).