Jump to content


TU Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


LHL last won the day on December 1 2020

LHL had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

44 Excellent

About LHL

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. "Papa Red Fish" on Instagram made a tank akin to a lazy river to show the action of some of the lures he makes. It's a really interesting concept you can see here: https://www.instagram.com/p/CMPHg1KH7cu/
  2. Like most I use Devcon 2 ton epoxy and scuff the lips with 80 grit sandpaper. I had to remove one of the lips because it slipped out of position (whoops). I ended up using a hammer to pop it out but instead of the lip coming out cleanly the entire nose of the bait broke off. The epoxy joint ends up being stronger than the wood itself in my case.
  3. Ahh okay that makes more sense! Thanks for the clarification.
  4. I'm slightly confused on these pictures @eastman03 since I can see your stay-lok snap connected to a screw eye, but the connection point on a headlock is to a pin on the aluminum lip. Where did this screw eye come from?
  5. You'll probably get more response posting in the soft plastics section of the forum
  6. For a 7inch glide bait I personally like to have one hook in the first third of the bait and a second hook on the back third. I've noticed that a lot of predatory fish will hit a glide head first, and so a hook near the front is very useful. As for the weight placement, Hillbilly has a great idea: drill several holes along the entire body of the lure that will accept weights and temporarily hold them in place with screw or tape or hot glue etc. This will really allow you to play with the weight placement without building a ton of lures. Be sure to bring a notebook with you too and take lo
  7. I actually really enjoy epoxy I currently have (not etex btw). It has a very hard but not brittle finish and has a long enough work time so I can clear coat 10 baits without it setting up on me. I work slow so the long cure time is actually preferable to me. It's worked great all summer until now but it's no big deal; just glad I found the answer to my problems and potentially help someone else who may have the same issues
  8. I just wanted to briefly share something with you all that I'm sure most of you who read the safety data sheet on your epoxy already knew... My epoxy was taking an exceptionally long time to cure (4+ days) and I couldn't figure it out. I thought that I was not thoroughly mixing it enough or that I was handling the baits too much with bare hands. I ran through the gambit but just couldn't figure things out. One day while reading the side of the epoxy container I noticed that it said the epoxy should be cured in temperatures between 70F and 80F. It's winter here and the heat is on but my in
  9. I would buy the colors you need! For example on my lake I've had a lot of success throwing white and chartreuse baits so I went out and added chartreuse to my collection of paints so that I can paint something I have confidence in. Or one lake I fish has a large population of hammer handle pike so I bought the colors to paint a pike pattern. I first bought the Createx Primary pack for about $25 and then added to the collection as needed.
  10. @eastman03always has the best advice when it comes to musky lures! The only thing I would add to this other than what has already been said, is that when I drill through wire for larger baits, I prefer to drill a pilot hole with a shorter drill bit first for the nose and tail of the bait. The smaller drill bit is much easier to 'aim' and will not wander as much as the long drill bits. It takes a lot of practice but it definitely can be done! The first through wire construction baits I made were the slot method which is the easiest in my opinion but still very time consuming. I prefer
  11. Solid tip right there! I'll have to remember that if I ever use those. I have a bunch in a box but never used them before. But those are GREAT first lures! I can't build a crankbait to save my life so this is much better than I've ever done.
  12. DJ Custom has a nice short video showing his process for taking care of the harbor freight brushes:
  13. The area where the glue is will be stronger than the surrounding wood. It will be tricky when you transition from soft wood to hard glue and back to the soft wood. You could test your skills by gluing up too small pieces and seeing exactly how it carves but I'm going to say that as long as your tools are sharp and you work slowly you shouldn't have a problem with it.
  14. EX-74 has very similar working time as Etex. It takes about 6 hours to get to a tack free stage and 24 hours to fully cure. EX-74 becomes too gummy to work with after about an hour so it should give you plenty of time. I too work slow and usually try to coat multiple baits at the same time so mixing up one big batch of epoxy to clear coat everything has working just fine for me.
  15. I've switched to EX-74 now and really enjoy the results. You can only purchase it in large quantities (1 gallon each of hardener and resin) so if you're only thinking about making a handful of baits a year I would advise against it.
  • Create New...