william cohen

The good part, when the spinner was reeled at the normal speed it ran very well. To my eyes I believe it spun faster than any other lure I tested. But it has many negative's. At a slower speed trying to just roll the blade over it would not start. Blade stayed close to the wire. Tried to jerk the spinner it would not start. Only fast speed made it work. Well nothing ventured nothing gained. Learned a great deal from you posts. Thanks for everything.

I haven't had it in the water yet, doing more talking than action. Hope to get to it this weekend. Got smashed with honey do's.

canuck2, thank you for your opinion. The reason for the bead is to act as a bearing to help the clevis to move freely which in turn would allow the blade to rotate faster?

thanks

I don't know this as a fact but I presume that the clevis would move and rotate faster with more ease? It was my reason trying this.

Here is the finished product the bead doesn't interfere with the spinning of the clevis whether it spins faster or slower I'm not quite sure. Please give me your opinion

Trying to make a 3/16 oz inline spinner. What weight body do I use? Thanks

What type of beads best are best suited for spinners? Sorry poor choice of words. Beads made out of what material.

I'm looking for some beads, sizes 4,5,6, mm for inline spinners. Been to the usual places Walmart, Amazon. Seems to me you get a volume of beads which I will never, use some I will. Reasonable price is always important. Thank You.

Permagloss is great stuff.....but there are a few things you need to know about it. Moisture in the air is what causes it to cure. Moisture in the bottle will cause it to harden in the bottle.....eventually. Put marbles in the bottle as you use it to get the air out as much as possible. The cap will eventually get brittle and break on you so replace it with a Testors Model paint cap. It is like water when you apply it. It takes 4-8 thin coats to get to where you can't feel the threads. But it is much more durable once set-up than regular epoxy. I like to do a "Drip Coat" with it. I apply it with a metal needle by dropping a good size drop on the wrap, and work it quickly side to side as I rotate the blank just to get the wrap covered. I then turn the blank guide side UP for a reason. When the wrap is completely covered and wet, I move to the next wrap and do the same thing. When I have three wraps covered, I look to make sure the excess is DRIPPING off the wrap onto the bench. If I leave the blank with the guides down, the stuff will run down the guide frame into the insert! I use the needle to pull the drips off after they form making sure to rotate the blank a few times so it flows to the area I touched. Let it set for half an hour and its cured to tack free. No need to really put it on a drying motor really as the coats are so thin. As long as you don't mess with it after it starts thickening up, bubbles are not a problem usually. Brushes seem to cause more bubbles than the needle. Repeat that process several times and eventually it will look very nice. Not as thick or glossy as epoxy finishes but still very nice. And it gets you high too.......

Buy some rod wrapping finish I use "flex coat". If it's a small chip 1 coat will do. You have to rotate the rod for a while or else you will get a bumpy finish. I apply with a cheap artist brush throw away type. I have not tried Perma Gloss, makes an excellent product.

How does the vibration change the finished product?

I admit to being very slow, just starting on this new adventure. It does take me extra time compared to someone with experience.

It's not a question of using more wire. It's starting from scratch. I see this as a time saver. Any more suggestions?

If you could find some wire, strip the plastic covering off. cut in thin slices and slide on to the lure wire. you could bend the lure wire to make loop but don't close it? I'll try the wire tie too.