william cohen

This is just a guess but the body and sold metal ball bearings might be too much weight if that is a number3 blade. You might want to weight it and use the proper blade size?

Been looking thru the internet, getting opinions on which is the better line to use for casting inline spinners. Braid or mono. What is your opinion? Probably braid for distance? I read that braid is heavier than mono when wet and was not the top choice if you wanted spinners to work at shallow levels? Choice for feeling vibration and how the spinner is working? Thanks

When making inline spinners I prefer single hooks. It occurred to me that the single hook may be acting as a rudder. Could this add drag and affect the way the blade and body are suppose preform? Thanks

Those spouts are a pain in the butt. They plug up and are high maintenance .

Iv'e been pouring lead off and on for the last 20 years. Been thru that whole process. In my opinion the fastest and the most efficient way is with a Coleman Stove a very sturdy pot purchased at the thrift shop. Load up on different size ladles, spoons. Most important things to remember very good pair cooking mitts, full face mask, a ventilated area. Did most of my fishing surf casting. Made my own lures and all my casting weights nothing fancy.

The good part, when the spinner was reeled at the normal speed it ran very well. To my eyes I believe it spun faster than any other lure I tested. But it has many negative's. At a slower speed trying to just roll the blade over it would not start. Blade stayed close to the wire. Tried to jerk the spinner it would not start. Only fast speed made it work. Well nothing ventured nothing gained. Learned a great deal from you posts. Thanks for everything.

I haven't had it in the water yet, doing more talking than action. Hope to get to it this weekend. Got smashed with honey do's.

canuck2, thank you for your opinion. The reason for the bead is to act as a bearing to help the clevis to move freely which in turn would allow the blade to rotate faster?

thanks

I don't know this as a fact but I presume that the clevis would move and rotate faster with more ease? It was my reason trying this.

Here is the finished product the bead doesn't interfere with the spinning of the clevis whether it spins faster or slower I'm not quite sure. Please give me your opinion

Trying to make a 3/16 oz inline spinner. What weight body do I use? Thanks

What type of beads best are best suited for spinners? Sorry poor choice of words. Beads made out of what material.

I'm looking for some beads, sizes 4,5,6, mm for inline spinners. Been to the usual places Walmart, Amazon. Seems to me you get a volume of beads which I will never, use some I will. Reasonable price is always important. Thank You.

Permagloss is great stuff.....but there are a few things you need to know about it. Moisture in the air is what causes it to cure. Moisture in the bottle will cause it to harden in the bottle.....eventually. Put marbles in the bottle as you use it to get the air out as much as possible. The cap will eventually get brittle and break on you so replace it with a Testors Model paint cap. It is like water when you apply it. It takes 4-8 thin coats to get to where you can't feel the threads. But it is much more durable once set-up than regular epoxy. I like to do a "Drip Coat" with it. I apply it with a metal needle by dropping a good size drop on the wrap, and work it quickly side to side as I rotate the blank just to get the wrap covered. I then turn the blank guide side UP for a reason. When the wrap is completely covered and wet, I move to the next wrap and do the same thing. When I have three wraps covered, I look to make sure the excess is DRIPPING off the wrap onto the bench. If I leave the blank with the guides down, the stuff will run down the guide frame into the insert! I use the needle to pull the drips off after they form making sure to rotate the blank a few times so it flows to the area I touched. Let it set for half an hour and its cured to tack free. No need to really put it on a drying motor really as the coats are so thin. As long as you don't mess with it after it starts thickening up, bubbles are not a problem usually. Brushes seem to cause more bubbles than the needle. Repeat that process several times and eventually it will look very nice. Not as thick or glossy as epoxy finishes but still very nice. And it gets you high too.......

Buy some rod wrapping finish I use "flex coat". If it's a small chip 1 coat will do. You have to rotate the rod for a while or else you will get a bumpy finish. I apply with a cheap artist brush throw away type. I have not tried Perma Gloss, makes an excellent product.

How does the vibration change the finished product?

I admit to being very slow, just starting on this new adventure. It does take me extra time compared to someone with experience.

It's not a question of using more wire. It's starting from scratch. I see this as a time saver. Any more suggestions?

If you could find some wire, strip the plastic covering off. cut in thin slices and slide on to the lure wire. you could bend the lure wire to make loop but don't close it? I'll try the wire tie too.

I've been doing a lot of experimenting with different blades and configurations with spinners. At the present time I'm making the lure using it and then tearing the lure down and starting again. Has anyone found a way to keep the lure together without finishing the final loop. This way the lure could be taken apart and put back together with some alterations. I have tried one method suggested on the forum but it didn't work for me. Thanks

made a mistake, in my first post it should read for a 1/4 oz. spinner the recommendation is 1/11 oz. body.

I'm new at this, inline Spinner, French blades, Largemouth Bass.

Been to Jannsnetcraft trying to figure out the starting body weights for spinners Janns is very confusing for a 1/4oz body they recommend 1/11 oz, in grams 2.57. 1/3 oz body recommendation is 1/14 oz which equates to 2.02 grams? I realize these are starting points. I'm looking for some starting points that are a bit more accurate. Interested in 1/4 1/3 3/8 oz. Thank you for your help.

You have talked me into trying the trying the top. Bottom is toooo complicated and more than I can handle with a screwdriver and file. lol