Chris Catignani
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Everything posted by Chris Catignani
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Makes sense...what I have seems to run pretty good in the water.
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Allen...thanks for the input. I was also wondering about that. This is how it lays in the mold...and have thought about modifying the mold. Is it common to bend those wires at the head?
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What is the length / # of that spacer?
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You should be able to click on My eBay (on the top ) and click Purchase History.
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What the length you using for those...and where did you get em.
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I'm making a few spinner baits and was wondering about the spacing between the blades. Currently I'm using a bead, 2cm tube and another bead...and that seems to work pretty well. Just curious as to what others are doing and why.
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Does anyone have a recipe for the motor-oil that when looking down on it, it looks green and when you hold it up it look translucent brown? Like the Charlie Brewer Slider Motor Oil color.
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Good to know....what about when there's a bunch of bubbles...Is that getting close to burn?
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What does it look like when you "burn" your plastics? I keep reading about it and figure I probably have done it and maybe didnt know. What are the ramifications of burning a batch? Is it ruined?
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Oh boy this rod is nice
Chris Catignani replied to martin2023's topic in Rod & Reel building & repair
I like Gomexus reel handles. -
This is a pretty good stencils for scales. My daughter has a flower shop and these hold the blooms together during shipment. If any body wants one shoot me an IM with your name and address.
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I kinda like balsa because it easy to carve. If I find that Im gonna be somewhere where Im going to be really bored...I bring a block of basla and my carving knife. Plus...I have a huge discarded display case, for floats, that was made of balsa!
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My daughter has a flower shop....some varieties come in with a mesh sock over the flower...this is what I use for scales.
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Probably the best solution...I did however lightly spray the tail with clear acrylic sealer and it seemed to do just fine.
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I have a glide bait that I'm airbrushing and it's a thread fin shad...aka yellow tail. So I put a tint of yellow on its brush tail and I'm thinking about giving the tail a shot of acrylic sealer (Mod Podge rattle can). My thinking is that the yellow airbrushing wont hold up without something on it. Any thoughts on this...or other ideas?
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I'm gonna add another question to this same thread. In an effort to salvage the gallon of Crystal Clear I bought I'm thinking of making a hybrid version of plastisol...something like 2 parts DoIt Essentials 1 part Crystal Clear. Has anyone ever mixed these two before?
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I use a lot of paint pens before I airbrushed. Years ago, I would remove the paint/finish off a plug and get it to the bone color then just add a red gill line.
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Just a word of caution when adding pigment. Do so just a little at a time. Its been my experience that you only need a little. Its also been my experience that the epoxy doesn't set up right if there is too much pigment.
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It looks pretty... In the "how it started section" it says I'm like huh?
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Whats The Hardest Most Durable Clear Coat On The Market?
Chris Catignani replied to CatchemCaro's topic in Hard Baits
Is that a resin or a two part epoxy? -
Are you leaving that upper chamber empty? Also what setting are you using for the fill%
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I agree...they do look good. Thanks for sharing...
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I have something I use thats called Liquid Leaf #6130 Renaissance Gold.
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I'm not saying it wont work...I'm just saying epoxy wont readily adhere to aluminum foil very well. One of the methods of applying epoxy (lures, rods) is to pour it out on aluminum foil...this helps slow down the exothermic reaction and gives you a little more time to work with it. Once the unused epoxy cures...it can be easily peeled off the foil. Not 100% sure if this is really @Flaswimbaiter problem...just an observation. One thing worth trying is to use something like FlexCoat. It has properties to make it somewhat bendable.
