Jump to content

Chris Catignani

TU Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Chris Catignani

  1. One thing I like to add to epoxy is pearl powder (DoIt). I will add the tiniest amount...like on the head of a tooth pick. Once you see this in the sun...it just POPS! This is the same pearl powder you use in plastic. The photo is a little deceiving as some of the reflections are make a boca effect.
  2. The UV resin is non yellowing. I use it for various tasks...not so much as lure finish. I see the Engineered Angler uses UV resin as a coat. I'm using FlexCoat because I just have that for rods. I have used both the High Build and the Rod Builders. High Build set up time is longer than Rod Builders. Usually (for rods) I would use High Build for thread work and Rod Builders for handle assembly.
  3. After I dip in power paint...I will poke the eye out with a tooth pick. I will also stow them eye up when I bake. This seems to work pretty good.
  4. Thanks for all the input...I ended up getting this one: 4" MC Worm Mold (6 Cavity) - Angling AI
  5. @BobP Can you explain this process? I'm not following clearly.
  6. I'm curious about this too...do you heat it? or does it just firm up?
  7. Actually...they have this one...thats close stl400 4 in steelhead trout salmon bass bait mold | enforcer-bait-molds (enforcerbaitmolds.com)
  8. They are just for my self...it would be the last mold that would complement a suite of plastic molds I use...Senko, Ned, Beaver, swimbait and Slider.
  9. I fell in love with the Slider years ago...I actually met Charlie Brewer and had him sign his book. I remember being in High School and seeing these guys in the dead of winter catching all kinds of fish. They were using a Slider. I got on the band wagon and soon found out that it caught fish all year round....and I also liked to wade and it soon became my primary wading bait.
  10. I have seen a bunch of different molds ...I'm really wanting one looking like a Slider. It basically is tapered and has a small paddle tail...look like a minnow( and a worm). I found one at Del-Mart Molds...but its kinda hard to tell if there even in business or not.
  11. There is a technique that uses an inner stint and an outer sleeve for the repair... Here is a link to Ralph O'Quinn's article on the procedure: Rod Repair by Ralph O'Quinn
  12. For this...any epoxy will work. Just wipe off any excess when your finished. If you dont have a way to clamp...then just stand if on it end with some weight to push it down. (remember to wipe off an excess when its clamped) The reason this is critical is that...if epoxy dries on the out side, you risk having a chunk (of cork) pulled out when sanding. Yes sand the result...clean the old side with soap and water.
  13. You certainly can install new cork from the back.... Take a razor blade and make a clean cut to get off the broken pieces. Maybe 1 and a half rings and an eva disk for a butt cap...there are other alternatives too for butt cap.
  14. New paint for an old lure.
  15. Chris Catignani

    sealed baits.JPG

    Love your work...
  16. This is what does it for me... In one case...the leaning was caused by too big a Colorado blade.
  17. @mark poulson Mark...are you making that spinner bait...or just doing a modification?
  18. I'm getting one of those. I use an old cabinet makers file for shaping cork handles...and never really thought about using it on lures.
  19. If that doesnt work out...You can can always (like @mark poulson said) just cut the butt off. If you decided to do that...measure the I.D. and I will make you an extension to epoxy in there.
  • Create New...