Chris Catignani
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Everything posted by Chris Catignani
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Epoxy wont really stick to foil. I have used a silver like paint that I have epoxied over. The paint was Iridescent Silver (Fine) made by Golden Acrylics.
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Line tie might be a little too far back.
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Instead of glitter...they should use corn.
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I have been buying Do-It Essential Series Plastisol and have been pretty happy with the results. Recently I bought a larger size of Do-It Crystal Clear Plastisol (honestly not knowing the difference). It seems to me that the Crystal Clear is way softer than the Essential Series. Anyone else use both and have this conclusion?
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Yes...it is a spook copy...weighted in the back 50%. -
Need Held In Identifying Fred C Young Lures
Chris Catignani replied to Joseph W Bradley Jr.'s topic in Hard Baits
So...I been looking at these...and I think they may be some of the earlier baits! Watch this video and maybe even contact the guy in the video. @35:21 he talks about some of the baits being stamped Mr. Fred under the bill! -
Thanks...this is my first attempt at a big thread fin -
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I'm thinking, "Why didn't I think of this?". Hanging (by the eye) also get the paint "flowing" away from the eye vs. just hanging it by the hook.
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Just to set the record straight...that photo is a stock photo from AI. I did forward on the question and got a response from Gary Hill at AI. Afternoon Chris, Those colors are from dead on. Can't remember what orange and yellow we used to blend that or amounts. Both came from dead-on plastic and they have a great selection of oranges and yellows. Glad to hear you are enjoying the mold and I will pass that on to the team. We appreciate your business and have a great day. Thank you,
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One thing I like to add to epoxy is pearl powder (DoIt). I will add the tiniest amount...like on the head of a tooth pick. Once you see this in the sun...it just POPS! This is the same pearl powder you use in plastic. The photo is a little deceiving as some of the reflections are make a boca effect.
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The UV resin is non yellowing. I use it for various tasks...not so much as lure finish. I see the Engineered Angler uses UV resin as a coat. I'm using FlexCoat because I just have that for rods. I have used both the High Build and the Rod Builders. High Build set up time is longer than Rod Builders. Usually (for rods) I would use High Build for thread work and Rod Builders for handle assembly.
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After I dip in power paint...I will poke the eye out with a tooth pick. I will also stow them eye up when I bake. This seems to work pretty good.
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Thanks for all the input...I ended up getting this one: 4" MC Worm Mold (6 Cavity) - Angling AI
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@BobP Can you explain this process? I'm not following clearly.
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Thanks for clearing that up...
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I'm curious about this too...do you heat it? or does it just firm up?
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Actually...they have this one...thats close stl400 4 in steelhead trout salmon bass bait mold | enforcer-bait-molds (enforcerbaitmolds.com)
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They are just for my self...it would be the last mold that would complement a suite of plastic molds I use...Senko, Ned, Beaver, swimbait and Slider.
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I fell in love with the Slider years ago...I actually met Charlie Brewer and had him sign his book. I remember being in High School and seeing these guys in the dead of winter catching all kinds of fish. They were using a Slider. I got on the band wagon and soon found out that it caught fish all year round....and I also liked to wade and it soon became my primary wading bait.
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I have seen a bunch of different molds ...I'm really wanting one looking like a Slider. It basically is tapered and has a small paddle tail...look like a minnow( and a worm). I found one at Del-Mart Molds...but its kinda hard to tell if there even in business or not.
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There is a technique that uses an inner stint and an outer sleeve for the repair... Here is a link to Ralph O'Quinn's article on the procedure: Rod Repair by Ralph O'Quinn
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Fixing a cork handle
Chris Catignani replied to Hillbilly voodoo's topic in Rod & Reel building & repair
For this...any epoxy will work. Just wipe off any excess when your finished. If you dont have a way to clamp...then just stand if on it end with some weight to push it down. (remember to wipe off an excess when its clamped) The reason this is critical is that...if epoxy dries on the out side, you risk having a chunk (of cork) pulled out when sanding. Yes sand the result...clean the old side with soap and water.
