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walkercope

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  1. You're going for a higher frequency vibration then? I've never put any thought to slow vs fast.
  2. Do larger blades exist? these are the biggest I've seen. I drilled a hole on the blade further down from the factory holes and fished it a bit tonight, blade vibrates well even at a slow retrieve so I'm happy with it. Only issue is the fibers squish down a bit so it doesn't keep quite as good of a profile but I'm happy with it
  3. I actually just posted asking about drilling holes into chatterbait blades - mind sharing what you're working on? did you just guess for the location of the hole you drilled?
  4. Anyone making their own blades for bladed jigs (chatterbaits)? I've been playing with mixing fly tying techniques into conventional lures and an issue I've found is that big trailers with a lot of drag will keep the blade from vibrating because the force of the water pressure on the blade isn't enough to counteract the drag force on the trailer and the blade just stays in the forward position. So It's got me wondering how do manufacturers decide where to drill the holes on the blade to attach the clip? I haven't thrown my latest one yet (see below) so not sure if I'll have to modify the blade but I'm expecting I'll have to drill another hole in the blade closer to the jig head to get it to vibrate. This one's 12.5in total length, tied onto a 2oz picasso shock blade. I know the hook situation isn't good but I can fix that later once I get the swim I want.
  5. I have one if you still want this info
  6. Little late seeing this thread but I highly recommend "XSelect Marabou" from Hareline. I do a lot of fly tying and this is the only marabou I buy now. Lure looks awesome.
  7. Really appreciate the response. Can you go into any detail about how you hold the harness in position inside the mold while you pour the resin?
  8. I'm planning to 3d print it just because I already have some printing experience and a printer...and I have zero carving experience so printing the master seems easier to me... A big question on my mind is if I should 1) pour the body and then add in all the weight and hardware or 2) make some kind of harness and have it in the mold when I pour the resin...your way seems like the way to go but it sounds tricky to get right? Do you put the eyelets and swivels in before you pour too? How do you hold the foam and weights in place in the mold?
  9. Yeah I'm using Fusion 360 already for my design and some 3d prints I've been doing...but I'm using the free version. I think it has flow analysis capability but it requires a license which is like 400$ a year which is not worth it to me.
  10. I don't remember what it was called - I haven't used it in 8 years now anyways. I'll see if I can find a good free option once I've got a model finished and report back.
  11. I took a couple classes in school about fluid dynamics and have used some software in the past, but I had free access from school. At least with that software it was pretty simple to to import a model and have it model the flow around it, and it would calculate the center of buoyancy for you and probably other useful things..but yeah I think a license is like 40k
  12. Have you done any flow analysis and if so is there any free software you'd recommend?
  13. I'm planning to try and build my own glide bait soon. The current plan is to design and 3d print a master, make a mold, and pour resin to create the baits and I'm trying to get a good understanding of how it should be weighted to keep it as stable as possible during fast retrieves. Most videos I've seen online they just glue some weights to the bottom of the lure after it's all said and done but I was thinking about creating some kind of harness with lead towards the bottom of the bait and maybe foam towards the top. The bait would either be two sides per piece, glued together at the end with the harness sandwiched in, or poured with the harness already inside the mold. Anyone here have experience doing this and could tell me if I'm on the right track or not?
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