G D Beck

The master is right, that's a nice product. But for me, I have been happy with the less expensive single injectors, if you are not needing dual layer effects. There is also a kit for using two singles like the one below to convert to dual injection. As I mentioned, I do my "special" effects with hand pours, and fast turnaround with injection. Skin coating your injection molds is another option for effects, and that works well for me with crawdads (dark back, brown/red/zombie whatever below). https://www.ebay.com/itm/154318057368?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2648

Good stuff above. I'd just add that I don't have to use release compound on my CNC aluminum, but I do on my engineered stone baits. So, I get a better finish on the CNC, particularly if dusting or using color shifts. I forgot the release one time & the stone mold broke trying to get it apart. For me, I inject for speed, but like to hand-pour for quality & flexbility in CNC. Pricey, but they last forever. A couple examples below for CNC tails. Both make good molds, slight preference for Epic, but that's probably because of good customer service. https://anglingai.com/cali-tail-mold/ https://epicbaitmolds.com/products/tail-mold-7-inch-curly-tail-grub?_pos=2&_sid=88a6ffc06&_ss=r Good fishing.

Hi folks, So today I compared the dupli-color vinyl clear coat spray with the SB-3000 solvent clear coat. Both links are below. https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-Fabric-Coating-Hvp115-Fluid_Ounces/dp/B07D2N49W4 https://www.ispikeit.com/product/281/clear-3000 Both did a great job, but I have to say, the finish is somewhat more vibrant with the dupli-color vinyl, and of course, it also doesn't need an airbrush. That said, the SB-3000 was nice as well, and were it not for the side-by-side, it's pretty dang good. Plus, as noted above, looking forward to mixing in some color shift pigments with a large needle to see what happens (mess and disaster most likely for me). Now, this is just the "art" stage, how each will hold up in the water, that's yet to be determined. But both look good right now. For the SB-3000, I just mixed thinned in the brush reservoir, used all the material, and then cleaned with solvent. Not bad, but make sure you dress up in your best PPE (for both products). Cheers & good fishing!

Hi folks, I just bought some SB-3000 paint from Lureworks. They have great support, as some of you know, can't say enough good things about their service and knowledge. The purpose of the SB-3000 is to lock in some color shifts without the thickness of clear dipping and with more flexibility on where the coverage is applied. So, here is the surprise (to me anyway) and the reason for this post. The SB paints are made of some pretty harsh chemicals (THF, MEK, CHx, and Phthalate). Now that's a potent brew! So, it turns out that chemical compatibility is limited, and there not many materials that work with this stuff. Meaning, you shouldn't mix in most plastics (PEEK may be exception). You can mix in glass, but now there are additional cleaning steps. I'd prefer a disposable option for mixing. So, has anyone developed a simple airbrush system for handling these solvent-based paints? I'm kind of thinking about just mixing directly in the airbrush reservoir using glass eye droppers to measure ratios. I also bought some 3-layer chemically resistant gloves for better protection (nitrile & latex are not recommended). The SDS is attached here, as is a glove compatibility chart. But bottom line, these are some strong paints that need to be used with care & caution, respirator and ventilation. Any advice would be appreciated. VPI_SDS.pdf gloveselechart.pdf

Hi McLuvin, So, it seems you have worked with the gel-a-lure? Are the results of the cold pour worth the effort? It appears it's mostly a way to suspend particulate and/or use lots of color layering. I like the baits I'm making with up to 4 layers, but love experimenting. Also wonder if gel-a-lure is this thick, does it produce a stiff bait or affect the action in the water?

Here's the link that Josh (lureworks) sent over for a flexible clear coat: https://www.ispikeit.com/product/281/clear-3000 It needs to be sprayed on with an airbrush, but you can add pigments, mica, etc. as long as the nozzle size on the airbrush is properly selected relative to the size of the stuff you'll be blowing through. I'm going to try the vinyl clear I noted in the earlier post and see how that does. Josh also noted that any clear coat may potentially change the color shift properties, so I'll be on the lookout for that as well. Good fishing!

Hi Fern, Got some additional info from Lureworks. It's totally a cold pour approach. Layup your layers, suspend whatever in the gel-a-lure, and then bake in a convection over at 340 - 350F. Josh (LW) said it scorches easily and is difficult to work with after heating. So cold at every stage but the bake. That's my limited understanding. Cheers

Hi folks, I was shopping on Lureworks and saw their product called Gel-A-Lure™ 4504. They only say "Gel-A-Lure™ is a new gel formula for making multi-colored lures using a cold pour process. This allows you to make a lure with dozens of colors and unlimited pouring time." Has anyone used this process? How does it cure? Does it use the same pigments as plastisol? I can't find much about it. If anyone likes this process for a particular lure advantage, would enjoy hearing about it. Cheers & good fishing!

PS, also just found this stuff on Amazon: Dupli-Color Ehvp11500 Vinyl and Fabric Coating. Plastisol, being a suspension of PVC (V = vinyl), should be compatible. I'm going to order & give it a try. If it produces good results, I will let you know.

I'm looking for the same, in particular flexible but durable spray clear coat. Clear dipping in soft plastic is fine, and sometimes gives a good look depending on the bait. But I am getting some great finishes using some color shifts and the clear coat plastic takes away the look a bit, it's too thick. Acryillic paint is flexible, but not sure how well it will adhere to plastics in the water, moving & hopefully being bit (OK, willing to lose some for the last point of it all). I did find a clear coat called Flex Paint (google it). It's intended for PUF and rubbers, and of course plastisol is not that. So yeah, if anyone in this forum has tried some clear spray coat that works on soft plastics, would love to hear about it. I'm about at the point where I may just try some things and perhaps fail/learn in the process. I would guess that oil-based products that are flexible would be better matched to plastisol than water based. Cheers & good fishing

Wow guys, what a trove of great thoughts! Many thanks! WallyC14 - that's pretty creative. I can totally see why that would work. It looks like a bit of a heat sink, but once warmed, it is pretty bulletproof. Stabilizer, yes, your lessons are learned & appreciated. Just poured a few today with the heat-plate method, much better already. But Wally, dang, that looks awsome. Thanks again guys, good fishing!

Hello folks, I've been open hand pouring for a bit now. Chris Jones' advice on color mixes have produced many excellent results for me, varying his takes for my own waters & baits. However, perhaps like some of you, I only have a few molds of any particular variety. So, that means, yes as you already know, reheating and reheating the plastic. Sometimes it takes on a yellow tint and I have to start with some fresh and save the ugly stuff for some dark or opaque color. I've been told stabilizer might help, BUT the point is, if you are pouring only one or two hand-pour baits at a time, the plastic workability dilemma will come into play. So, the question. What has worked best for you all in this situation. I have two creature molds that will have four layers/zones. So, the plastic needs to be hot enough to adequately bond, and then 20 minutes later, do it all over again. It's that second part. So, thinking maybe a toaster oven or something else to keep 4 cups of different color schemes workable at the same time. What do you do? Many thanks for any thoughts & advice. It's the cold of Moria now, so gearing up for some springtime fun. Cheers!

Hi folks, Seems there are a few options. WD40, according to a tech site that ran a lab test, has C9 - C14 light end oils (hydrocarbons if you wish) that cut a mineral oil remainder. If anyone has had a bad experience with WD40, I'd be interested. Easy to use & cheap. I'm using Dead-On plastic. Good fishing!