Da_linx

That metal powder could be too agressive with FEP film what can involve some risk…

Nice job with those tentacles!!!!

Thank you so much!!!! Stability is something I can fix. Nicccccce!!!!!

One question, fellas! I am still thinking in that presto pot/stirrer system with european power supply… so I am looking for alternatives. I am thinking in the following set up: A hot plate (like a induction plate and such) with a sauce pan or a small pot and stirrer system on it. Do you think this will work or I need something that heats all the surface of the pot, not only the bottom? I don’t really know how a presto pot works… Thank you in advance to everybody!

I have mine in a room… door always closed and window always open… I have read a lot about temps… but I never had to worry about it… Once I found my optimal settings, I have been getting the same results in the winter (even printing at night) and in the summer… I always use anycubic standard in grey.

Makes sense in this orientation… I will try and decide what method fits better the way I work to get the better enclosure and the faster system Thank you a lot!

I usually print a male and a female half of the mold… one with holes and one with cilinders to fit… and I see you print two female molds… I don’t know how my cilinders will print in this orientation, but is Nothing you can not fix printing cilinders appart… Thanks for the tips!!!! I entered this post trying to give some help and I have ended up receiving some… people is awesome LOL

I will definetly try it with one of my smaller molds and I will compare them new and old… Make sense… the tension is applied to all the surface in a vertical orientation preventing the mold to bend… and real resin saving without the supports The only con I can advance is that the tension is always in the same portion of the FEP putting more stress on it, but in a smaller surface… I think my new printer could do it good this way…

Ah!!!!! Ok!!!! That’s not much tension to the FEP and you save resin without supports… I tried a time ago with bad results but I will give it a try with my new printer… Just I will be more patient… LOL

I am from Spain and I am a pain with the language, so I am not sure if I am catching you… I don’t have elephant foot since I print the mold angled with supports with the external part of the mold orientated to the building plate so I don’t have to worry about that side… do you print with the internal side looking the plate and then sanding the support marks? How does it works? Anyway, printing flat on the building plate (which is the way you can have elephant foot) would probably break the FEP in the long run, with all the problems and risk that this involves… I learned it the hard way with my first printer…

Sanding will not help to close the mold, warping exceed the work of a sandpaper… If you are talking about how flat and smooth is the internal side of the mold, I think your better option is making some trials with different inclinations… usually about 40 or 45 dgrees works well… in adition, you can learn something about arctan angle… Flat printing helps with this but you put a lot of tension in the FEP film

Of course! You can always print a master and use it as a master… better results than using FDM… Of course, nothing I know can beat aluminium

Step by step! Ah, ah , ah! I am sure I will end up needing a larger room!!!

No heat problems with anycubic standard resin at 330ºF The real problem with UV resin molds is that they tends to warp due to curing shrinkage (the bigger the mold, the bigger the warping) and you need to apply much pressure to get an optimal mold enclosure, which can result in an eventually mold break… This is how is working for me so far

Thank you all!!! My plastisol has heat stabilizer and I have used more to add to the reheatings… but I didn’t feel it helped much… anyway, I can keep yellowing under some control slowing down the reheats and adding raw plastisol… I am visiting the US so I planned to take the presto back with me in the baggage, but I will finally go with the vacuum chamber, specially due to the power supply we have in my country (230v and 50hz), because you can’t find presto pots out the US… So I will go with the chamber while I figure out how to build a similar system with european stuff! Thank you again for your help!!!!!

I was doing it good with just a brand of super glue type glue… a drop behind the eye and a big drop over it covering all the hole the eye is in… it melted the plastisol and made a durable cover and the eyes didn’t fall off… I was a year working this way… One day it sudently started to fail and I haven’t been able to make it work again…

Hello!!! I am a home based bait maker… I have been working with microwave oven so far but now I want to upgrade my set up a little… I am looking for bubble free baits, avoiding yellowing and a time saving system… in this order of preference So I have to choose between a vacuum chamber or a mixing melting pot… I know vacuum chamber will help me with the micro bubbles with no help with yellowing and time saving and the melting pot is a good way to avoid yellowing and improving work times… The question is “how the mixing melting pot” would help me with the bubbles… While bubbles are my capital problem… which system do you recommend to go with??? Thank you so much!!! And sorry for my language… I am from Spain and I try to do my best!