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Found 8 results

  1. Wassup Guys!!! Sorry I have been MIA for a while. Got a new job and had a little girl a few years ago so time has not been spent in the shop. I recently got back out and building again so I am trying to see what the latest is on the all purpose, do it all, dippable, one coat, dries rock hard in 5 min no turner needed brilliant UV stable top coat. OK now that that is out of my system... I am fully aware that the best finish is purely subjective and probably never going to be found. Thus, I am looking to see whats the latest on top coats. From what i can dig up its basically still the same from 3 years ago... Epoxy, DN/MCU or in some cases concrete sealer. Well I have tried DN 4 times and never could get it to last even with utilizing all the bloxygen methods so I am kinda fed up with that stuff. Epoxy even decuopages have all cracked and failed over time and so it will kill me to finish a bait knowing it only has a few years to live. My go to 3 years ago was 2 part auto clear but now with California restrictions on VOC I cannot get the good stuff anymore! I went goodies shopping a last week and bought 2 concrete sealers to test. One is lacquer based and one is Acrylic xylene based. From my tests they both react to water based paints but very differently. The acrylic one is temperamental and if you do a good heat treat and put the createx top coat on it will be ok, but the lacquer is opposite if you use the top coat it tends to crack and react more. Both seem to produce a very hard finish but it seems both are prone to worm burn. Other than DN, Epoxies and Auto clear what finishes are not susceptible to worm burn? I still have my lure turner I can go back to epoxy if I have to but I know there is something I can buy in CA that is a better option. Also, I never liked water based finishes because they all seemed to turn white and soft if there is prolonged water exposure like leaving them on rain soaked deck. Maybe putting a final layer of polycrylic over a concrete sealer may work for the worm burn though? Advise and suggestions welcome...actually I am begging for them! Cheers, Matt
  2. Hey, I'm all over any topcoat that's easy to apply (especially dipping), has good gloss, no storage issues, and is DURABLE. What I haven't seen enough of yet are posts about how durable the concrete sealers are. I don't want a topcoat that is not as tough ON THE WATER as epoxy, moisture cured urethane, or UV cured polyester. So how about it, guys... what is your experience in this area with Gst or any other brand of sealer? Have you ever seen it cloud up after immersion, indicating that it has softened and absorbed water? How has it performed against impact and hook rash? Any "Gotchas" while applying it to lures or fishing them later? Inquiring minds want to know!
  3. I really want to try the Alumi-uv, but can someone give me an idea about the coverage? I'm curious about how long a $30 4oz bottle would last? Approximately how many average size crankbaits (1.5/2.5) it would cover with a single coat? Some way to compare the cost verus 2-part epoxies. The stuff is expensive, and It seems like it would at minimum triple the cost per lure.
  4. Sorry guys, I've been a 'lurker' for quiet some time here, and low and behold, my first post is about one of the top repeated subjects. Sorry. At least I searched the forum for the subject with only one result that offered no information. Does anyone use, or have previously used "Klear Kote" for topcoating plastic lures? If so, how does it perform versus D2 and other topcoats? Drying time, durability, etc. I know that it's been used for years on various tables, clocks and such, and is known to be clear, hard, and scratch resistent. Economically priced at $86 shipped for 2 gallons (.33¢ / ounce). http://www.creativewholesale.com/ProductDetail/tabid/174/ProductID/1290/Default.aspx
  5. OK, today I airbrushed a lure. I haven't had a chance to buy the nice Createx colors yet, I have been using acrylics thinned with water and a bit of Pledge floor shine (according to a few people it makes the paint harder when dried). Well I dipped the bait into the urethane and immediately it shied away from parts of the bait. The bait had not been handled. Just imagine pouring water on a car where parts of it had some wax and others didn't. Any ideas? The floor shine? I am going to try again with a balsa blank (previous was a plastic crank) and go with acrylic thinned only with water, and another blank just to see if this is just a problem inherent with the product. In the mean time I would love some input! Thanks in advance!
  6. Alright Guys, I need your help! I am new to using epoxy as a clear coat. I have only used it twice and like how it looks. I Cant remember the name of the epoxy I use, its 5 min epoxy I bought from Hobby Lobby for $10.00. What brand Epoxy do you guys use and what would you recommend? Thanks For The Help Guys! Brad
  7. I have been using a fiberglass resin for my clear coat. It is awesome stuff and cures in about 20 minutes or so. It is USC fiberglass resin. I mix it in small batches and do about 6 lures at a time, brushing it on. I happen to have a pic in my phone that might help. Just to the right of the lure, you can see the can and lable. I hope it is ok to put a pic here for this purpose.... Any thoughts, degatives, comments? Tim
  8. I have seen some else used this (and I was amazed at the quality) and I was wandering whether or not if somebody had used this product as well and other possible ways to clear coat a crankbait without yellowing....
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