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Found 12 results

  1. BobP

    Garco Mcu

    I cracked a new can of Garco moisture cured urethane and dipped a batch of lures in it last night. Here are my initial observations: The Garco can be found on the internet for around $25, which is cheap. It's designed as a floor finish. Like DN, it is a very light amber color but it is slightly thicker than DN. It still dips OK but there's a bit more drip-off after dipping due to the viscosity.. Garco's initial drying time is much slower than DN; the lures are still just slightly tacky this morning after 14 hours of air drying. Not so tacky that you can't handle them, but tacky nonetheless, while in comparison DN is always bone dry and slick to the touch after 2-3 hours. Since MCU takes several days to cure and get really tough, I don't know yet whether this is a show stopper. I'll let the lures hang for several days to see if the tackiness goes away as it cures. Garco is also less glossy than DN; I'd say 'satin' versus DN's 'high gloss'. That's a plus or a minus, just depending on your taste in topcoats. If the Garco cures out hard and slick, I'll be satisfied and will continue using it. Will toss it if it doesn't. Will report back after a few days of curing.
  2. Hey guys i am new on here and new to lure building and painting. I painted my first bait yesterday and it was a jointed swim bait. i made a lure turner but i dont think it will work for this bait. I will include a picture of the lure. Does anyone know how i should topcoat this lure?
  3. I was wondering if anyone uses the Createx Gloss Top-Coat? Is it any good? TIA
  4. Get a smoother finish and coat more baits faster with this epoxy brush. Get a cheap set of bristle brushed (Walmart is one source). Use a pointed pair of scissors to remove 3/4 to 7/8 of the bristles. Clean with denatured alcohol or acetone and wrap with paper towel. Reuse it for months or years.
  5. I am looking for advise on Art Resin. It has some really nice features that seem ideal for lures. I have read many posts on this subject and visited the Art Resin site as well. This is what I know ont the plus side: uv protection, ultra clear, really brings out the color, long work time. This is what I know on the minus side: thin, needs 2 coats, needs lure turner, 3 day cure time. What am I missing? Any useful hints to minimize the negatives? How much protection is needed from dust?
  6. Hey, I'm all over any topcoat that's easy to apply (especially dipping), has good gloss, no storage issues, and is DURABLE. What I haven't seen enough of yet are posts about how durable the concrete sealers are. I don't want a topcoat that is not as tough ON THE WATER as epoxy, moisture cured urethane, or UV cured polyester. So how about it, guys... what is your experience in this area with Gst or any other brand of sealer? Have you ever seen it cloud up after immersion, indicating that it has softened and absorbed water? How has it performed against impact and hook rash? Any "Gotchas" while applying it to lures or fishing them later? Inquiring minds want to know!
  7. Guys have different criteria regarding topcoats. For me, durability and ease of application are the most important things. Solarez is quick, durable, and yields a satin gloss topcoat unless you buff it out mechanically to a high gloss - which I don't go to the trouble of doing. Satin is OK by me. After curing, Solarez is not quite as glossy as epoxy and it's considerably less glossy than a urethane like Dick Nite. The speed with which you can get a ready-to-fish topcoat with Solarez, plus its moderate cost are its big advantages. We're all learning the little tips and techniques of Solarez as we go along and gain experience. I just wanted to get some tips out on Solarez for those who are trying it for the first time. Other guys may have different techniques, but this works for me. 1. The name of the game with Solarez is to control the amount and movement of the wax flakes that the finish contains. The wax is necessary for the finish to cure hard. It rises to the surface after application on the lure and it "suffocates" the UV chemical reaction to form a hard slick surface. Without it, the finish would remain sticky. 2. STIR the finish in the jug just before you apply it. This disperses the little wax flakes floating on top of the finish and will result in a higher gloss on the finished product. 3. Brush on the finish with an artist's brush and immediately clamp the lure onto a lure rotator for about 10 minutes. This allows the Solarez to level out and the wax flakes to rise to the surface of the finish. The rotation prevents the wax flakes from migrating to one spot on the lure. If you simply hang the lures up, you are likely to get a white blush on the lowest part of the lure as wax flakes migrate to that area. The blush will be more apparent on dark painted areas. 4. To cure the finish, you can either put the lure under a UV light for 3 minutes or alternatively, just sit the lure outside in sunlight for awhile (I use 30 minutes). It's easiest for me just to set the still-running lure rotator out in the sun. Solarez may take anywhere from 5 minutes to 45 minutes, depending on how you apply it and how you cure it. But even 45 minutes is the Land Speed Record for topcoats. Personally, I've had some sheeting and drip problems in cool weather when I tried dipping lures, so I brush it on.
  8. I really want to try the Alumi-uv, but can someone give me an idea about the coverage? I'm curious about how long a $30 4oz bottle would last? Approximately how many average size crankbaits (1.5/2.5) it would cover with a single coat? Some way to compare the cost verus 2-part epoxies. The stuff is expensive, and It seems like it would at minimum triple the cost per lure.
  9. Sorry guys, I've been a 'lurker' for quiet some time here, and low and behold, my first post is about one of the top repeated subjects. Sorry. At least I searched the forum for the subject with only one result that offered no information. Does anyone use, or have previously used "Klear Kote" for topcoating plastic lures? If so, how does it perform versus D2 and other topcoats? Drying time, durability, etc. I know that it's been used for years on various tables, clocks and such, and is known to be clear, hard, and scratch resistent. Economically priced at $86 shipped for 2 gallons (.33¢ / ounce). http://www.creativewholesale.com/ProductDetail/tabid/174/ProductID/1290/Default.aspx
  10. I paint blank plastic crankbaits. I have tried epoxy and Solarez for my topcoat and my reactions for epoxy were "meh" at best and somewhat optimistic for the Solarez. This is what I want from a topcoat: 1) EASE OF USE 2) I nice glossy finish without being so thick it makes the bait look like it was dipped in glass 3) Durability and toughness 4) EASE OF USE Hey Dave, you said "EASE OF USE" twice! I LIKE ease of use! As far as wooden baits etc... I have no clue how it would work but I think most would stick to expoy etc...again, I paint plastic blanks. I will test a lipless crank at a quary I call my Laboratory (as in lah BOR a tor ee in a funny accent) last time I went I brutalized a lipless against all the rocks. I got it at Menard's for about $29 for the gallon. It is 20% acrylic solids which is a bit lower than the one rep recommended but instead of a double dip I am going to try a triple. I hope this helps! I don't like having "trade secrets" etc when it comes to this stuff.....
  11. Alright Guys, I need your help! I am new to using epoxy as a clear coat. I have only used it twice and like how it looks. I Cant remember the name of the epoxy I use, its 5 min epoxy I bought from Hobby Lobby for $10.00. What brand Epoxy do you guys use and what would you recommend? Thanks For The Help Guys! Brad
  12. i need to purchase a top coat for my lures what do you guys recommend ?
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