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capt mike

Sealing With Superglue

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19 hours ago, Jhnnyboy54 said:

Awesome thank you it makes sense. I have a pinhole or two that will be helped by the CA also. What grit before you apply? 220?

This is my first build. Thank you again. Seems like a great place to share thoughts and ideas

I use 400 to finish everything and 150 for shaping and cleaning.

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4 hours ago, Flaswimbaiter said:

I use 400 to finish everything and 150 for shaping and cleaning.

No 220 between the 150 and 400? I appreciate your responses by the way. I've got temporary hinges set in a two piece rat that I have cleaned up to 220. Getting the hang of making wire hinges a bit. You think I should sand to 400 then seal with CA. Thanks again

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22 hours ago, Jhnnyboy54 said:

No 220 between the 150 and 400? I appreciate your responses by the way. I've got temporary hinges set in a two piece rat that I have cleaned up to 220. Getting the hang of making wire hinges a bit. You think I should sand to 400 then seal with CA. Thanks again

I use 400 before and after, but I know some guys finish with 220. I just like a real smooth surface just in case I mold it and I don’t want to take off too much after applying the superglue cause I test in a pool before I paint. 

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I occasionally use CA and like most here I use my finger.

BUT I am a bit hesitant to use it all the time as I'm sure I heard years back it has "Iso Cyanates" in it . This was a problem with the 2 Pack paint systems (Very toxic)---might be worth checking it out.

Hope I'm not crushing any toes here, it's nowhere near as bad as I thought. Pete

From Wikipedia :

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanoacrylate

Toxicity[edit]

The fumes from cyanoacrylate are a vaporized form of the cyanoacrylate monomer that irritate the sensitive mucous membranes of the respiratory tract (nose, throat, and lungs) and the eyes. They are immediately polymerized by the moisture in the membranes and become inert. These risks can be minimized by using cyanoacrylate in well-ventilated areas. About 5% of the population can become sensitized to cyanoacrylate fumes after repeated exposure, resulting in flu-like symptoms.[33] Cyanoacrylate may also be a skin irritant, causing an allergic skin reaction. The American Conference of Governmental Industrial Hygienists (ACGIH) assign a threshold limit value exposure limit of 200 parts per billion. On rare occasions, inhalation may trigger asthma. There is no singular measurement of toxicity for all cyanoacrylate adhesives because of the large number of adhesives that contain various cyanoacrylate formulations.

The United Kingdom's Health and Safety Executive and the United States National Toxicology Program have concluded that the use of ethyl cyanoacrylate is safe and that additional study is unnecessary.[34] The compound 2-octyl cyanoacrylate degrades much more slowly due to its longer organic backbone (series of covalently bonded carbon molecules) and the adhesive does not reach the threshold of tissue toxicity. Due to the toxicity issues of ethyl cyanoacrylate, the use of 2-octyl cyanoacrylate for sutures is preferred.[35]

Edited by hazmail
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I use an N95 while using superglue. Even though they are meant for fumes and not vapors, I don’t even smell it, which means there is little chance of overexposure. I recommended that all of you use at least some type of NIOSH rated respirators when working with any of the chemicals we use or while sanding resin or wood with superglue. And if in doubt always check the PPE section of the SDS. 

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16 hours ago, hazmail said:

I occasionally use CA and like most here I use my finger.

BUT I am a bit hesitant to use it all the time as I'm sure I heard years back it has "Iso Cyanates" in it . This was a problem with the 2 Pack paint systems (Very toxic)---might be worth checking it out.

Hope I'm not crushing any toes here, it's nowhere near as bad as I thought. Pete

From Wikipedia :

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanoacrylate

Toxicity[edit]

The fumes from cyanoacrylate are a vaporized form of the cyanoacrylate monomer that irritate the sensitive mucous membranes of the respiratory tract (nose, throat, and lungs) and the eyes. They are immediately polymerized by the moisture in the membranes and become inert. These risks can be minimized by using cyanoacrylate in well-ventilated areas. About 5% of the population can become sensitized to cyanoacrylate fumes after repeated exposure, resulting in flu-like symptoms.[33] Cyanoacrylate may also be a skin irritant, causing an allergic skin reaction. The American Conference of Governmental Industrial Hygienists (ACGIH) assign a threshold limit value exposure limit of 200 parts per billion. On rare occasions, inhalation may trigger asthma. There is no singular measurement of toxicity for all cyanoacrylate adhesives because of the large number of adhesives that contain various cyanoacrylate formulations.

The United Kingdom's Health and Safety Executive and the United States National Toxicology Program have concluded that the use of ethyl cyanoacrylate is safe and that additional study is unnecessary.[34] The compound 2-octyl cyanoacrylate degrades much more slowly due to its longer organic backbone (series of covalently bonded carbon molecules) and the adhesive does not reach the threshold of tissue toxicity. Due to the toxicity issues of ethyl cyanoacrylate, the use of 2-octyl cyanoacrylate for sutures is preferred.[35]

I always have box fan on low blowing past me toward an open door when I use superglue, which I do all the time.

Super glue fumes are hard on the sinuses and nasal passages.  I learned that the hard way, when my nose wouldn't stop running for two days.

Edited by mark poulson
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Is this CA coat necessary? I've been doing it with all of mine as that was how I was taught however it destroys my beautifully smooth sanded baits no matter how I apply it, although I've never used the drip method I read about here. It takes a lot of sanding then to actually get it smooth again. I was thinking of base coat, paint and two coats of warmed vu resin. You guys think that is enough?

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11 hours ago, Thomas Reid said:

Is this CA coat necessary? I've been doing it with all of mine as that was how I was taught however it destroys my beautifully smooth sanded baits no matter how I apply it, although I've never used the drip method I read about here. It takes a lot of sanding then to actually get it smooth again. I was thinking of base coat, paint and two coats of warmed vu resin. You guys think that is enough?

Lately I have been mixing it up and so far it appears to be working. I apply superglue to drill holes and joint cut outs because it penetrates so well, then coat the rest in polyurethane. 

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I use CA glue on my 3d printed lures as well, it buys me a couple of things, FDM prints are not water tight, it hides most of the layer lines and it make the plastic easier to sand. 

I think it also affects the temp where it the lure should warp, but I think the top coat of epoxy plays a part too.

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I spread by finger using a cut-off finger from a nitrile glove.  One cut-off finger can be used several times and the glue doesn't seem to have any effect on the nitrile.  Five applicators per glove so they aren't expensive!  I can also "feel" when the glue starts to set up so can stop spreading/smoothing the finish before the glue sticks to the nitrile.  Not sure if latex glove finger would be the same.

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