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Painting Soft Plastic?

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Alright so here it is I am from Canada an was wondering on painting my soft plastics ... Now what I was thinking was oil based paints like the arts and crafts stuff has anyone tried it?

Since lurecraft won't ship their paints international . Or are there other paint suppliers that will ship international ? I'm thinking its crossing the border that would be the problem..

But reason being for my thoughts on the oil based paint is that mainly we use scents as additive that are based in oil so why couldn't I spray some oil paint on the surface ? But my question would be would it bond or bleed ? I am thinking on trying it either unless someone gives me a bad experience story haha

I'm thinking reheating the baits should work too but the paint would probably be speared out in the plastisols color ... Any input here guys would be really appreciated

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Spike-it, LureWorks, and color technologies are all the same company. Their plastic paint is specificaly designed for soft plastic lures. Once applied to the bait it will not rub off, alumidust is nothing more than the color pearl powder which can also be bought through lureworks at a whole lot better price. Unlike other companies that buy in bulk and redistribute, these guys actually manufactor a large majority of their products.

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I have been trying a new paint that is a water based paint that works on plastic but needs to be dipped after either in plastic or clear paint from Lureworks. BUT a new one is being shipped to me right now and does not need to be dipped. It can be shipped out of the country and smells way better than the one offered now. I really could not say anything before but now it is about to hit the market. AND it is from Lureworks. There has been a lot of work that has gone into this and I am sure it will have its growing pains. But being water based it can be used as a dotting paint or reduced to air brush it. There will be a clear that dry pearls can be added to. The best part about the clear is that it is a bonding agent too. In other words if you use laminate plates you can pour all the baits you want and coat the side that will be bonded so it will become one when poured again. You can coat Mylar and insert into a bait and it will become part of the bait. Need to play with it more like that but gives me plenty of ideas. Also for the dotting of eyes and spots I have been using a flow pen from passhe. It uses no air and is gravity feed. You can leave it in the brush all day and it never dries out. Don told me his children were playing with it all day and no smell. You cant do that with the other paint.

You can get paint that becomes part of soft plastic baits and does not come off. Might be a challenge to paint an old bait but I don't do that. Lureworks is really working on some nice stuff for all of us. It should be out in the next few weeks so look for it. Frank

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Frank, I knew they were coming out with that paint but I wasn't sure when. they also have some new pearl powders(I've just got through ordering those). You are right about lureworks having alot in store for the hand pour folks and the great thing about dealing with them is that they also supply most of the large manufactorers, that gives hand pour guys access to the same type of components as the big boys, so if you are looking for a certain color of paint, plastic coloring, highlight or pearl powder, and Just because you dont see it on their website dosen't mean its not availible. They have such a wide variety of products that its almost impossible to list them all, especially when it comes to colors.

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Spike-it, LureWorks, and color technologies are all the same company. Their plastic paint is specificaly designed for soft plastic lures. Once applied to the bait it will not rub off, alumidust is nothing more than the color pearl powder which can also be bought through lureworks at a whole lot better price. Unlike other companies that buy in bulk and redistribute, these guys actually manufactor a large majority of their products.

It is not the same stuff, I have both.  I also like the lureworks stuff, but have not tried it with heat guns.

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I have been trying a new paint that is a water based paint that works on plastic but needs to be dipped after either in plastic or clear paint from Lureworks. BUT a new one is being shipped to me right now and does not need to be dipped. It can be shipped out of the country and smells way better than the one offered now. I really could not say anything before but now it is about to hit the market. AND it is from Lureworks. There has been a lot of work that has gone into this and I am sure it will have its growing pains. But being water based it can be used as a dotting paint or reduced to air brush it. There will be a clear that dry pearls can be added to. The best part about the clear is that it is a bonding agent too. In other words if you use laminate plates you can pour all the baits you want and coat the side that will be bonded so it will become one when poured again. You can coat Mylar and insert into a bait and it will become part of the bait. Need to play with it more like that but gives me plenty of ideas. Also for the dotting of eyes and spots I have been using a flow pen from passhe. It uses no air and is gravity feed. You can leave it in the brush all day and it never dries out. Don told me his children were playing with it all day and no smell. You cant do that with the other paint.

You can get paint that becomes part of soft plastic baits and does not come off. Might be a challenge to paint an old bait but I don't do that. Lureworks is really working on some nice stuff for all of us. It should be out in the next few weeks so look for it. Frank

I look forward to this.

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There is one thing here that does not seem right. If anyone says the PAint from lure works does not work you are not using the right product. That is the bottom line. They make so many products people think they have the right stuff but can't be so. The original smells real bad and you know it is right because you need really good ventilation. The new stuff smells like latex from say house paint. Much easier on the nose but slow drying. Frank

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Anglinarcher, what colors do you have from color tech? Since you have both types what is the disearnable difference between the two?Like Frank said you and I may be talking about 2 different products. There is almost nothing on the market that color technologies dosen't carry when it comes to plastic components and what they dont carry they have knowledge, but of just choose not to carry them, such as the ground glass solution that some companies sell for a sinking additive. These folks have been in business 25 to 30 years (something most distributors cant say) odds are if you need it they have it.

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To be honest, I did not know that Color Tech and SpikeIT was the same until this thread.  I guess I just never bothered to pay attention. 

 

The stuff I have is from the "ISpikeIT.com" web site.  I bought the Pearl White 127 and the Hi-Lite Red 136. http://www.ispikeit.com/Store/c-79-pearl-glo-pigments.aspx   As I mentioned before, I have not tried either with the heat gun trick yet so I can't respond as to how it will work in that regards, but I can compare the material to the Alumilite Products in other respects.

 

Alumilite sells two different dust type products.  They have their "metalic" powders http://www.makelure.com/ProdDetail.cfm?Category=Dyes%20-%20Fillers&Name=Alumilite%20Metallic%20Powder of which I have their PEARLESCENT.  It is not as fine as the SpikeIT product, but as an additive to Plastisol it works about the same.  Alumilite also has a new product, their Alumidust.  http://www.makelure.com/ProdDetail.cfm?Category=Support%20Products&Name=Alumidust  I have all of their colors of this stuff.  If I want to really get a pearl, I need to use the SpikeIT or the Alumilite Pearlescent from their "metalic" powders, but for a subtle pearl, the dust works great as a color additive.  Still, that is not what it was designed for. 

 

The Dust is very fine, much finer then either the Alumilite Metalics or the SpikeIT.  It was designed to paint, with a brush, on the inside of a silicone mold prior to pouring Plastisol or Resin.  The colors of the dust then transfer to and are bonded to the Plastisol or Resin.  I have found that it will paint to the inside of most plastic and aluminum molds as well, but the Silicone holds it better.  Only recently has Larry Dahlberg started painting it on to the Plastisol baits and heating it to bond it.  In the past, Larry Dahlberg would dip the baits in a very soft clear plastisol to get a glossy surface over the dusted bait.

 

Here is my take on it.  The Alumilite "metalic" is the best for getting an almost metal flake look out of the pearl I use.  The SpikeIT gives me a cleaner and a more true pearl, as an additive.  The Alumidust can be added as an additive, and you get some interesting results, but it is hard for me to get a clean and consistent result.  The Alumidust works best as a surface paint, either before molding or after molding and then heating it.

 

The colors of the Alumilite "metalic" are limited.  The SpikeIT colors are not as limited, but are still limited.  The Alumilite Dust color option is vast (33), but I find myself only using about a third of them for my taste.

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Yeah they have the same stuff, you can either add it to the plastic or dust it to the molds this stuff is not like white pearl or highlights, Its just called pearl because its a powder additive. They've got several colors in this product but keep in mind it may not be sold under lureworks or spike-it. I've been using a certain green color for over a year now and it really makes a bait pop, of course I dont dust the big molds, I use it as an additive, so far I have found using it with a very light non bleed chartruse is a great affect. Like I said i'm sure its more economical to buy from color tech, if they dont manufactor it they buy it in such large quanities that their redistribution prices are almost always lower then everybody else's, but you've got to keep in mind that when I purchase my components I buy them all by the pounds. I have found some of these same metallic powders and dust in places that sell different additives for automobile paints and other applications, the same exact products cost twice as much from these type of companies than from color tech. 

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It's not on the there site yet. Maybe I spilled the bean to soon. But I did ask Don if I could tell everyone and he said yes it would make him put it on the site sooner. They are real busy and working overtime to catch up so maybe it will be a bit longer. Not sure of the name but will find out. When I talked to Don this morning he has a lot of things in the works. He has a lot of new products that he asked if there was a market for and all I could say is yes. You all have to understand that it is way easier to sell to us the small guys than to sell to the big guys that don't want a big change. Frank

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I was wondering

 What PSI do yall spray at

and what ratio do you mix your paint / retarder

If you are talking about the paint for soft plastics then I reduce about 10to20% with retarder. Some colors like black are more like 10 while others like blue are more like 20. Just to get the desired effect. Can't help you with air pressure all my brushes have an air control knob on the gun. I find it much easier to use if you could get a brush with a .5 needle or larger. This will aid in it being easier to get it flowing. Without retarder it dries way to fast and will cob web. My favorite brush has a .8 tip and really puts out the paint. Frank
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